Western Arms SV Infinity 5.0 Limited
 

hi all,
Just ordered up a "Western Arms SV Infinity 5.0 Limited HW ( Silver ). Anybody have any comments on this gun , I plan to use it to practice IPSC so i plan to put many thousands of rounds through it.
thoughts

john

You should have asked if it's a good weapon before actually buying it no??

- My two cents..

Great pistol,

I have personally had the pleasure of shooting one couple of months ago.
Very nice indeed.

Kudos

http://youtube.com/watch?v=a4-02fpi8h8

will this run on propane?
john

Sure will,

get yourself a air adapter and buy some coleman propane tanks and voila!

Anyhow have fun.

THANKS MAN

I have one in black. Runs well. It's my plinker though. Too bulky to field. Looks great though.
Kinda thinking about trying to trade it for the single stack version (IED one). A bit too wide for my hands.

if your running just straight propane you'll want some silicone oil to keep it running. my M9 always ran outta gas til i put in some silicone.

Western Arms + propane is usually a pretty hazardous thing, isn't it? Everywhere I read, they say to use 134a duster and strongly suggest not using green gas / propane in WA guns because it cracks the plastic slide. Is the Infinity metal?

NO. BAD.

The gun will break. It was meant to run on duster (HFC143a) ONLY. So if you want to use propane, you have to get a flow restrictor from Airsoft Innovations.

so was the KSC Mk23, but i plan to run that on propane.

I will take what you gents said into consideration, however my friend had been using propane for over 4 months now and he is a dry fire nut.

No problems thus far.

And yes it's metal

Oh well if it has a metal slide, no problem. Almost all WA's are plastic, that's why.

little warning the slide may look feel and act like metal but usually its metalized paint my SVI 6 feels like metal but is indeed plastic, just a warning

Disassembling mine and documenting with photos right now, will post basic maintenance guide soon. Because Im a nice person.

Western Arms pistols, especially the old ones like the 5" Limited, are not anything like most airsoft GBBs.

Even with a metal slide, expect to break the stock hammer within a thousand rounds running on propane.

Yeah, Ive used 4 different Western Arms, only ever upgraded 1 of them to a metal slide, and ran them all on green gas. Its not a Faberge egg, its a Western Arms very expensive pistol, it will handle propane just fine. As for metal, on all WA SVs, just as on the Marui Hi-Capas, the frame is metal, the grip and slide are plastic, though WA does a better job than anybody making plastic look and feel like metal. Im tired and im going to bed, will post maintenance guide for you tomorrow, man. If you want to use it for IPSC, you want to keep it in pristine condition.

awsome info Non Credo, Thanks
maintenance guide and any pics/tips are greatly appreciated.
john

WA plastic slides will break on propane, it's just a matter of when. For some people, it's the first round, some people's slides lasts for a few hundred rounds, but WA plastic slides break on propane; there's no two ways around it.

Note: this is much more applicable to older, non-SCW designs; I believe all 5" Limiteds are non-SCW, I know mine was and I haven't seen an SCW/2/3 version yet.

If you say so. I've had good experience with them, though. And all of the guys I play with who have WAs use propane, too. But, I mean, if you wanna be gentle with it is entirely understandable. It is a quite expensive piece. You'll just end up paying for it in the weapon's performance.

As for the limited, I dont know if this is a trusty source or not but Redwolf claims the 5" Limited to be SCW V3, and he just bought it so assuming he bought it new, it might be V3. Pics would help, but we'd have to wait for it to ship... If it is V3, I can help with a guide, if it is the original Magna, then I dunno. Ive never owned anything that old, I dont know if its just the hop ups that have since changed, or if its entirely different in say the blowback unit and housing...

I've ran through about 16 mags of propane with silicone on my WA Para-Ordnance with plastic slide, and also lubed up the internal slide. Not even a crack. Only wears on the Magna reciever that shows paint taken off the metal part of the reciever where the slide is placed.

I also have these recoil springs. I think they are upgraded?

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...Picture106.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...Picture107.jpg


WA parts is a bitch to find. Just make sure you take real good care of them.

Mantelope is right. Too many noobs giving misinformation.

Yes you can run a stock WA on propane, but just like any
gbb with an abs slide— it will fail someday. That's a fact.
These guns are designed very well, better than TM's, to
perform on duster. Sure we all know people who've had
guns run for years on propane and not break, that's great,
they've been lucky and probably not putting a lot of rounds
through their gun in a hot CQB evironment.

I've owned more WA's than a small army (7 Prokiller's),
plus many more 45/1911's. The rear tends to fracture 1st.
But the good news is— there are still many metal slides
available for all models, so go nuts.

Your Limited 5" is a magna version. Should have a full frame
with no rail, plain Jane. Grips should be checkered.

Magna uses a straight firing pin, SCW1 and slotted firing pin,
SCW2 a curved firing pin attached to the hammer, SCW3 a
fat blob version of the SCW2 style. I've seen hammers fail
on Prokillers but not on anything else, just my good luck I
guess. Still running my main WA FMU Infinity for 3 years
now and only ever replaced the nozzle, after 2 years. Only
the metal slide and hammer spring are upgrades, everything
else is stock-ish. Sorry for typos, I just woke up.

Good luck.

I just ordered it from jon at w w w.airloft-services.net/ . I will post pics when it arrices in roughly 4 weeks.
alot of knowlege here in this thread. thanks for it all. i am a noob at this. i wanted the WA infinity more for the accurate resembleance to my real STI .40s&w ($2600) for safe indoor practice for IPSC competitions. but I will have to come check out this game you guys play......starting to feel the bug!!
john

Now I know that Safx has/had/has/had:D a few WA pistols...and I hear Mantelope knows his way around pistols as well :D ...

I'm never been one to say, "Close mouth...open ears", to anyone...but this may be a time to make an exception.

There's been an awful lot of advice being offered up on the forum in the past couple of weeks. Mostly well-intended, but at times mis-informed (especially from guys who either don't even have an AEG or who may have only shot in their basement). I'm not going to put anyone down for that.

BUT...as with any advice on this forum...it's up to you (the individual) to discern what is good advice, what's half assed, and what is total crap. Take what you will, leave the rest behind and go for it. Learn from your mistakes/sucesses and help someone out down the road.

Have fun!

I'm with m102404 on this one. I would tend to trust the experience of guys like Mantelope and safx on this and err on the side of caution to keep the gun in working condition. You're paying a shitload of money for a WA gun, and to run it outside of its safe tolerances is pretty risky. If you want to run propane, then at the very least get an AI flow restrictor. That way you can get the muzzle velocity you want without smashing your slide to pieces in the process.

As for ABS guns like KSC and TM running on propane - recent models of both handle propane quite well. Older models were known to break on green gas and propane. However, should a slide crack on one of these, it can pretty easily be replaced with an OEM replacement part for less than $30 from one of the HK-based retailers, or you can buy a metal upgrade part for under $100.

Now try finding either a replacement or upgrade part for a WA gun. IF you do (and that's a big IF), it will cost you shitloads of money. An OEM replacement will cost shitloads. A metal upgrade will cost you almost as much as buying a used GBB from the classifieds here on ASC.

I'm not going by hearsay here. I've done a LOT of reading on WA pistols (since I own 2 of them) and have talked to people who know their way around these guns, and if everyone who knows their shit is saying to avoid propane in these guns, then I don't care how many noobs are screaming that they run propane in theirs. I'm not running propane in mine.

That being said, I love firing my WA 92FS, but hate the performance of duster. To keep the slide cycle speed in check, I installed a heavier recoil spring (taken from my KJW M9), and I run the gun on a combination of duster and propane. I fill the mag about 5 seconds with 134A duster, then give it a 1-2 second shot of propane. It gives me a 50 fps increase in velocity without increasing the slide speed too significantly. Still though, I do this sparingly. As for my 1911, I'll run it strictly on duster until I get an AI flow restrictor.

I guess this noob stands corrected.

I will tell my friend to stop testing luck and move on to dusters...

Thanks guys!

Thanks Tys.

Crunchmeister— Lots of good points but I
have different opinions on some of your
statementss. Let me explain—


IMO, WA and TM have been concerned with
creating plastic based guns that feel as close
to the real thing as possible, in appearance,
surface texture and weight. In doing so,
they're come up with some interesting abs
based compounds that have been mixed with
anything from metal powder to bluing agents.
All of which made the guns look and feel nice
but didn't do squat for strength. Some stock
slides are more rigid, some softer, making
them prone to breaking in different conditions.

I've heard recent TM and KSC abs is more
durable, I can't say— yet. But, I've recently
acquired a new TM gen3 G17, so I'll know 1st
hand if it can take frequent propane abuse.
I've also heard WA magna to SCW2 are
proving to be better builds than SCW3's..

Also, UNC and others now carry quite a few
stock slides for WA guns, all selling for $30.
Slides are not restricted, I've imported many.

So, what I am really saying is— if your gun isn't
a super rare WA model with fancy stock slide,
then you can afford to run it on propane if there
are replacement options. Most 45/1911 slides are
interchangeable with a little knowledge. The SV
infinity line in Magna and SCW have quite a few
slide parts out there, it's the Honda Civic of WA's.
I would run the gun on propane for the nice
kick and fast recoil for as long as the hammer
spring lasts and/or slide fails. Then invest the
money into a metal slide, new springs and
possible high flow valve.

The other option for frugal/ipsc owners, is get the
flow restrictor as mentioned and save $$ with
cheap propane. But the fps and kick are sad.
Decent enough for target shooting though... but
no where close to the feel of firing a real pistol.

Hope this helps any WA owner or potential buyer.

Thanks for the clarification there, safx, but I just checked UNC, Redwolf and WGC, and none carry any slides (at least stock ones) that will fit a WA gun. Replacement parts for WA are very difficult to find, and aftermarket upgrade parts like metal slides tend to be quite expensive. They may have some other brand metal slides that will work on a WA, but unless you know what you're looking for specifically, it's hard to get replacement parts, and they tend to be pricey.

Now, if someone has other guns to use while their WA is down and waiting for expensive new parts, then it's up to the owner to decide whether or not to risk using propane. But if this is the person's only gun and they wish to preserve it, then I would be more cautious and not use propane.

In my case, my 1911's slide may be easier to find a replacement for, but for my inox 92fs, I have a better chance of winning the 6/49 jackpot twice in a week then getting struck by lightning than finding a replacement part.

Your not looking in the right place on UNC—
go to parts, then scroll to the bottom and
you'll see links for replacement slide, frames
and slide+frame combos. I'll admit the names
and descriptions on the HK sites are crap, so
you have to be savvy in your searching to
find the replacement parts.

Edit: Here's what to look for— http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...Picture1-1.png

Tis' true, it's hard to find the premium slides
for rare guns, so duster is your friend. But
the 1911's have plenty of options for those
who are willing to spend time searching those
brutal HK sites :)

Well that's good to know. Thanks for the info. I doubt I'll find a replacement slide for my 92FS, so I'll err on the side of caution there. But I feel better about running my stock 1911 on propane or duster / propane combination now. At least I got the gun used for a really cheap price, so I wouldn't feel so bad about having to replace a slide on that one, and wouldn't miss the gun in the slightest even if it was out of comission for months till I found a part.

So while I have a WA expert here... what metal slide would you recommend for my WA .45? I know very little about it, so a pic is all I have. Any other info you may have on it would be great too.

http://photos-c.ak.facebook.com/phot...47486_2044.jpg

BTW, the frame was originally black, but painted OD by the former owner.

Haha, putting me to the test right away eh?
Thanks for the compliment, I'm not an expert,
just a guy who's suffered a lot and spent a lot
on my toys.

Hmm, seems your WA 1911 is mismatched...
I don't think that's the stock slide for it cause
it looks identical to the stock one that came
with my MkIV Colt 1911 HiCap. Mine has the
exact same rear sight, it 's screwed through
the bottom of the blow chamber right?

Edit: Maybe they released a single and a
hicap version with same silde...

Anyway, the slide on it should be from a
Magna series gun, which means you need
the rear hammer area, completely cutout.
Matching the rear sight cutout is hard, since
most HK sites don't put up good pics. You
may want to switch blow chambers to be
able to use Bomar or Novak combos. If not
you can do what I did and get a Novak cut
metal slide, Novak sights and a slightly
bigger screw to run into the sight from the
bottom and hold it with.. a hem.. friction lol

Anyway, what you need to look for online
is a non-SCW metal slide that has a sight
cutout like yours, or a Novak (wider than yours).
Then try to make sure there is a metal gap
on the back for the hammer to pass through.

Cheers

On the topic of Magna. I know there are different flavors of WA guns, as you explained in an earlier post. From what I determined (I could be wrong), there's a difference between the SCW (whatever that stands for) and Magna.

I know my 92FS mag has "Magna Blow back System" on it. My 1911 mags don't. The mag that came with the gun (broken, but one that did work) has Wilson Combat on the bottom extension piece. I have 2 other working mags that don't have this extra extension. This gun confuses the hell out of me!

As far as I know, the gun is supposed to be stock except for the paint job.

Yah my fingers hurt, and they aint even got
the cramps worth sniffin'

Magna is the original WA gbb system. SCW
is Shibuya Custom Works redesign. The
blow chamber and firing system are different
in every evolution.

Your 1911 should be able to take any of the
standard 1911 mags. Those bumper plates
on the bottom are unique flair to the model
and not needed unless you want to buy the
exact mag for your gun style.

Damn you Tys! No ICS questions. Feel free
to ask m102404 any AEG questions, he runs
a course in Toronto!

Thanks for your time and explanations. You've at least removed SOME of the mystery of this gun. I appreciate your input.

waitin for pics for confirmation... This: http://redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/ai...l?prodID=22284 ? Correct?

Yep, that's a new one. It's not the old limited I thought of.

Nice gun, glad to see the bomar back in style. Only thing,
people are saying on other forums that WA's quality is
slipping starting with the SCW3's. Lots more rattling, and
some people are swapping out hammer, disconnectors
and sears from SCW2's. Read complaints about the new
titanium finish as well. Who knows, maybe you can shed
some light on the topic when your gun arrives.

Yup, Thats the one i got on order. When it gets here will post pics and write a review. this is great stuff. ...Why do the charge so much for the WA's compared to an all metal WE Hi Capa 5.1 Full Metal (WE-M)

http://redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/ai...l?prodID=18066$90 on UNC?? do they suck? wouldnt an all metal be better or are they junk.

john

Yeah, answered your own question. I mean, WEs arent inherently bad, theres just better stuff. *a lot better stuff. Really, all they did was copied marui's hi-capa and added cool looking cheap metal kits. But I wouldnt say theyre bad... mainly because I sell them to people, I guess. By comparison to AEGs, its like Echo to Classic Army. Not going to break from regular use, but theres much better gear available for those willing to save. And this isnt to say that Western Arms is the absolute pinnacle of airsoft pistols. With this thread as good evidence, one can easily see WA's inherent flaws. But, yeah, I can give you a guide for this pistol.... gimmie a little while. And good choice, bud, congratulations.

Yepp. SCW3s seem to be lacking.

Personally, nothing beats an SCW2 Expert. Beefy hammer, great internals, and awesome finish.

Magnas are awesome too. I hope to build my baby up one day.. But.. right now it seems the TM Hicapa is the only way to fly.

hooooookay. This is specific for your pistol's version though it may work on other versions I dont really know, ask someone else. edit: My gun is apparently SCW V2, but Im not going to disassemble the hammer mechanism, so this should be a fine guide to use for maintetnance on other versions. Sorry for the horrible focus is some of the images, my camera is gay. I do this about once a week, after every time I use it, but Im pretty obsessed with keeping my pistols clean as perfect as possible. You dont have to clean it very often, but, as always, treat your gear well and it will treat you well. To clean and properly lubricate your Western Arms SV Infinity pistol:

First off find a clean flat surface to work on that wont mind getting silicone and grease on it. Keep some q-tips, or anything else you prefer thats small and able to easily collect grease and dust, and a relatively clean rag handy. Pant legs work just fine as a rag in my experience. Youll need a quite small flathead screwdriver, a set of allen keys, a can of compressed silicon lubricating spray.

To begin you want to take your slide off. Like most gas-blow-backs, this pistol features realistic disassembly. Take the magazine out and rack the slide back until the small half-moon niche, just behind the slide lock niche aligns itself with the top of the slide release, then push out on the slide release with anything thin from the right side of the gun.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...6/DSC00964.jpg

If you did it correctly, the slide release will pop out just as on the real thing. You may then remove it from the gun, and pull the slide forward, and off the frame. We'll start off cleaning the slide... The common way to remove the barrel set and recoil spring from this gun somehow involves pulling back on the cylinder at the front of the recoil spring. I never learned how to do it, as I find it much easier to simply pull the barrel set down and forward through the front of the slide, as if the slide were racked while it was on the frame. Like so:
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...6/DSC00965.jpg

The chamber is the only thing keeping pressure on your blowback unit, the big black box thing at the rear of the slide. So now that youve pulled the slide forward, and released that presssure, you may remove the blowback unit. This is not to say that once the barrel set is forward, the unit just falls out. It isnt that easy. If you have a metal slide, its easier as you can tap the slide on something and the unit will pop out slightly, making it easier to grab and pull out. The unit must come directly down, if the slide is upright, lets say. So dont go tapping on the back of it with a hammer. It fits into the top of the slide so as to not move around. There should be a good amount of tension on it from either side of the slide, but with the proper force, it will come out. Be gentle. I wish I could be more informative:
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...6/DSC00966.jpg

Once youve got the blowback unit out well then its just a piece of cake. It should look like so:
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...6/DSC00967.jpg

What you want to do is remove the top crescent piece from the front of the unit housing, like so: BE CAREFUL. You will see from the photograph this top piece holds back a spring. When the unit itself slides forward, it is this spring that is compressing. If you bend or break this uber-delicate spring, well, I guess you could always still use the gun as a club. Wouldnt be that effective, though. So be careful, lif up on this crescent top piece slowly, taking care to notice if the spring is being bent at any odd angle. It shouldnt be, but if so, well I dunno. Use some tweezers or something and make it not bend oddly. Anyways, with the top off, it should look like so:
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...6/DSC00968.jpg

Once the top is removed, you may pull the spring out of the hole left by the top piece. Again BE CAREFUL WITH IT. And dont loose it, thats an even worse feeling. If you ever buy another Western Arms this becomes less of an imperative, as you can always steal this spring out of another one of your guns. Ill admit that I have had to do this once. What we want is the unit inside the metal housing. To get it out, remove both identical side pieces on the front of the housing. They simply pop out, but its damn near impossible to get at them from inside, and the outside is a smooth face, so you may have to use the tip of an Xacto blade, for example, to pry out these side pieces. In this next picture, you can see the holes left by the side pieces in the front of the housing, and the unit removed from the housing. Once you have the two side pieces out, the unit simply slides out the front, and be gentle with it, too.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...6/DSC00969.jpg

What we really want in this unit is at the back, which is why we have to completely disassemble this thing. If in the gun, this o-ring is impossible to directly access. You can silicone parts of the unit while it is in the gun, through the ejector port, up the magwell, but it is easiest to clean and lubricate if you take it apart. Use Q-Tips to clean off any noticable grease or dust specs, and make sure to clean up after the Q-Tips: there should be no hairs left on the unit. As I was saying, what you really want to lubricate the hell out of is the o-ring at the back of the unit:
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...6/DSC00970.jpg

SILICONE IT AS IF YOUR LIFE DEPENDED ON IT. In fact, SILICONE THE WHOLE THING. The entire unit. It should slide freely inside its housing, so silicone the whole thing. You cannot overdo this. Drown that thing in silicone. It also helps if you push back on the valve at the front of the unit, and spray in the hole when the unit meets the magazine on the bottom of the unit, viewable here:
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...6/DSC00977.jpg

It meets the magazine right at the end of my silicone hose, and you should keep any magazines you have well lubricated at this area with silicone as well.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...6/DSC00979.jpg

While on the subject of magazines, I believe your mag, being a new version, has the new unnecessarily huge mag bumper at its base. Left:: Unnecessarily huge mag bumper. Right: Prime's Aluminum Mag Bumper (awesome)
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...6/DSC00980.jpg

Now, once youve got the blowback unit out, then theres nothing at the rear of the slide to keep the barrel set from moving back. Dont worry, this is good. Take your barrel out, be careful the recoil spring and ts guide rod are not directly connected, they are two separate pieces. If you ever want to upgrade your recoil spring, this is where youd slip on a newer, heavier spring for faster cycling speeds. Also, while youve got the barrel out, clean out any grease and gunk that shouldnt be in the gun. Mainly... everything. DOnt worry about the gun being unlubricated, clean out any grease and re silicone it later. It will be smooth and clean.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...6/DSC00972.jpg

I've found that grease likes to accumulate where the slide meets the frame, so I regularly take Q-Tips to these areas now, and re-silicone them later, to ensure that the cycling of the slide be as smooth as possible. Speaking of grease, lets get to the frame and trigger mechanism. When I first got my SV, it was used, I didnt know the former owner, but after about a few games of use the trigger refused to consistently or immediately engage the hammer. After disassembling the frame I came to blame improper maintenance, so keep your trigger and hammer systems clean. First off, you wanna get the grip off the frame. To do so, unscrew the screw on the left side of the front of the trigger guard using an allen key. You may have to use your small flathead for help on the other side.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...6/DSC00981.jpg

Do not lose these screws, or their mount. They are small little devils. Keep track of them. Once youve got the screw and I guess you'd call it a nut out from the other side of the trigger guard, turn the frame over and tap it so as to pop out the mount they actually grab on to and thus hold the front of the grip to the frame.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...6/DSC00982.jpg

Then use allen keys on both of the plainly displayed screws on either side of the grip,
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...6/DSC00983.jpg

and gently pull the frame from the grip, like so:
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...6/DSC00984.jpg

Once separated, pull the grip safety back upwards to further expose the hammer mechanism. If at any time you have issues with the hammer sticking back while the gun is disassembled, you simply need to depress the hammer release beneath the hammer. Push it backwards, just as the trigger would, and it magically releases. Clean out the hammer mechanism thoroughly, I would not disassemble it any further. Its not fun to deal with. After cleaning any visible grease or grit from the sear, hammer, rod, grip safety and all, lightly silicone the entire group. Try not to get any on the outside of the grip safety, it will stay there, your grip will be slippery and your hand will be greasy.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...6/DSC00985.jpg

Next, pop off your magwell. Mines not the same as yours, because mine didnt come with a magwell, and I put a Dawson ICE Magwell on. FYI: It takes a good deal of filing and the real pin which fits through the magwell and through the hammer spring housing wont fit on the Western Arms. The hole for this pin is too far forward on the Western Arms, they did not make it exactly realistically, and as a result, the only way to get real magwells Like Dawson ICEs to fit are from simple friction and tension with the grip. Its on there sturdily enough, but is easily removed just with hands. Anyways, this is what it will look like on yours, poping the pin through the magwell:
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...6/DSC00986.jpg

once its off, the magwell will tip forward and off the grip. The hammer spring housing then slides down and off the gun:
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...6/DSC00987.jpg

The leaf spring underneath the hammer spring housing then pops out. All together: Hammer spring housing, leaf spring, grip:
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...6/DSC00988.jpg

Now, remove the magazine release by pushing in on the flathead screw on the right side of the mag release, and turning it to the left while pushing in.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...6/DSC00989.jpg

If you do it right, you should feel the force of the magazine release spring give, and the release will slide as one piece out the right side of the gun:
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...6/DSC00990.jpg

Then just pull the trigger, and grab the block protruding from the back of the grip now, (the trigger), back and out of the grip. Youve now completely disassembled the grip. Use Q-Tips or whatever you please to clean any debris from the magwell, mag release track and most especially the trigger's track. It should be free of any grease or debris, then silicone all moving part's tracks lightly, most heavily and importantly the trigger's track through the grip.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...6/DSC00993.jpg

If at any time you wish to switch triggers to any new ones you order or any of the three that come with the gun, you can easily do so now by unscrewing the trigger from ... the other part of the trigger now.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...6/DSC00992.jpg

Also clean the trigger itself, then youre ready to reassemble. After much use the back of the trigger block, the flat face that pushes against the hammer release may get bent in towards the magwell. To make your trigger faster you can bend that flat face back outwards, not far, and be gentle with it, too. I know youre trying to bend it, but do it slowly, like with your hands. Airsoft Surgeon does make replacement triggers, but itd suck to have to find one because you broke yours. Reinsert the trigger, and then the magazine release. Turn the flathead screw on the right side of the magazine release to the right and allow the spring to push out. The mag release is now back in place. Before putting the hammer spring base on, put the frame back on. It is easier to align the leaf spring with the frame attached.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...6/DSC00997.jpg

Screw both grips screws back in, reinsert the mount at the front of the grip from the hole in the top of the frame, and screw the brip back to the frame at the front as well. Now, the hammer release right about mid picture in the ext pic, you want the center piece of the leaf spring sitting right on to of that.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...6/DSC00999.jpg

The left piece should be sitting on the trigger, an the right piece should be sticking up in the air, this is the spring that pushed the grip safety outwards. It should look like so:
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...6/DSC00998.jpg

Slide the hammer spring base back up over the leaf spring, make sure the hammer rod is going directly down into the center of the base, and do not move the mase all that way up until you have pushed the grip safety all the way down again, as it should normally be.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...6/DSC01000.jpg

Then, push the hammer spring base up. There should be some good resistance, especially if you upgrade your hammer spring, but push up and keep it there while you put your magwell back on and reinsert the pin through the magwell.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...6/DSC01001.jpg

Slide the slide back on, and pop the slide release back through. Rack the slide back and make sure the outer barrel is tight, (it just screws on and off, clockwise threads). Always make sure your outer barrel is tight, just, yknow, whenever you get the chance, after every game.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...6/DSC01003.jpg

If you do get an extended slide release you may have to modify your grip. All that must be done is that you file down a niche for the extension, but you should need to take the frame off the grip to do this.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...6/DSC01006.jpg

Use a rag to wipe up excess grease and lube on the gun, and... apart from that.... I cant really think of anything. Make sure to use high quality seamless polished bbs, not the crap you get at Wal-Mart. At least .20 grams in weight per bb, no .12s. Metal slides are abundant for this pistol, many different models will work. We have Prime metal slides in stock where I work in I believe black and silver, but Ill have to check and make sure thats right. Not sure what weve got in stock, its not a very popular item, but Id defintely go with a metal slide as a first upgrade, if you do plan to upgrade it... I would. ANd I guess we could ship it to you... dont really know about that either. But you could probably easily find someplace online with a slide that will fit it. If what the other users here are saying is right, using your gun with propane is severely detrimental to your slides structural integrity. In other words, it just fucks it up. And just in case you should ever drop your pistol, or an accident should ever occur, it would suck for the slide to like shatter into a billion pieces. However, a metal slide, though it will give you the ability to safely use propane, will make the slide cycle slower. This is why Id recommend an upgraded recoil/return spring. Id also recommend an upgraded hammer spring and a high flow valve for your magazine. But thats a whole nother issue.... Remember to keep the mags gassed and unloaded when storing them so as to relieve pressure on the mag springs and of course to be generally safe. Ive found that it fits all real holsters for SVs Ive tried it with, Houge, Ghost, CR Speed. Its all good. And as I said, you really dont have to do all this so often. The main thing you want to get to is that o-ring, if it corrodes/degrades over time, its a parts gun. Or a gun in need of parts. However you want to look at it. But you can defintely get away with a few sprays of silicone down into the ejection port at the blowback unit and a few up through the magwell while the slide is forward. And the trigger cleaning, I only do all that to have really crisp trigger response whenever I play, but thats probably something you want if its for IPSC...

Anyways, hope it helps, enjoy and have fun.

Nice,

That's a rare SCW2 5" Expert you got there :)

Thanks. Wasnt originally mine, I wouldnt scratch up a fine metal slide like that.

I actually picked it up for only $100 USD. The seller apparently really needed money to finance a new car, and used or not, hell Ill take a Western Arms SV with a metal slide for 200 easy. And thanks also on the V2 call, I had no idea what version it was. Ive found most of my WA parts to be compatible, so the differences in versions just didnt seem so important as to be need to know things.

No problem, glad to help :) Nice grab on that gun
for that price!

I have the exact same gun, in all Black. Also the 4.3.

Currently the sears are giving me headaches, so I've
ordered new upgrades from UNC made by CP. The most
common parts available for the SCW2 Infinities are
hammer and sear sets, leading me to believe they are
the weak link in the design.

WTF?? ipsy,,,,,,,,,,wanna elaborate on that.

john442

He won the prize for ordering a WA SV Infinity 5.0 Limited