The "Silverballers"
 

So I've been a fan of the Hitman series of games for a long time. I've been replaying Contracts, and thought it would be cool to try and recreate the Silverballers from them. I always though the "Silverballers" were the AMT Hardballers, but the barrel of the Silverballers are much shorter. Like standard M1911. Anyone know any really good M1911 bases to start with? Gas/Spring is fine.

2 WE 1911 FMUs, sand them down, and add those American Legend grips (they're fairly cheap, should run you around $30).

That's about it. Threaded barrels fit on them too.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...l/IMGP0313.jpg

Example of converted WE 1911 from Arnies, courtesy of azn1stknightsoul.
You can make them quite shiny, too, apparently the lighting is awful in that picture.

Hmmm, getting the 47 symbol on a metal gun might be hard. Wouldn't a plastic gun be easier to paint?

Oh, you want a logo?
Well, there's the TM 1911, but I can't think of a paint that gives a very good chrome finish offhand to plastic surfaces.
I didn't know you wanted the symbol.

Boltgun Metal by Games Workshop. Its a paint that they make for Warhammer.
Daiviet is master of all things Warhammer, so if youd like another colour just ask him.

Yeah, I just want them to hang around or put on a stand, so they don't have to be anything fantastic for gaming.

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w...itman_1911.jpg

That's a screenshot from Contracts. The Blood Money ones are closer to white then silver, but the silver is what they're supposed to be.

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w...911-hitman.jpg

That's a similar copy someone made out of an airsoft gun, too. It wasn't intended to match exactly.

isnt there already a discussion like this in the videogame theme section? there are even pictures of people attempting to recreate the ballers as well

I figure I could get a TM, since it's plastic. Then find a way to tape off the logo, spray it with black, then apply that Warhammer paint onto it. Are Warhammer paints like the little model paints that come in tiny little bottles?

It appears that 47 in the latest movie has a Para-Ordnance!

http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/4...933x140qb9.jpg

Black polymer grip, double stack magazines.

http://www.paraord.com/product/product.html?id=19

Saw that movie yesterday, it completly raped the games(not in a good way), and as a stand alone action movie, it sucked complete balls. I don't think they used that scene or gun in the final movie (at least, not up close). If you look closely at the grip, you can see it's not wood. And I remember that they recreated the Silverballers perfectly in the movie. (At least, I think so. Only thing they did right, really.)

Probe, I think the movie was good compared to other game-to-movie type of films.

Have you ever seen Silent Hill, then? It mashes all three games together, but it does a good job of staying true to the games.

I can't stand that type of film/game. it bores me. So I haven't seen it.

Compare Hitman to Dead or Alive, Doom, BloodRayne and Resident Evil and I think Hitman comes right on top though.

Bloodrayne was so bad it barely got released. The RE movies make me feel like crying, I can't believe you even saw DoA. Doom wasn't too bad. But like I said, Silent Hill is definetly the winner there.

I didn't bother watching DoA, BloodRayne nor Doom and I only saw the first Resident Evil. I just know they are all shit.

Anyways, you have the right not to like Hitman as I have the right to like it. :)

Look, we can all argue about what game-to-film was the worst, or we can all just agree on which one was the best: Super Mario Bros.!

i heard tetris the movie is pretty good its 2 hours of bricks falling

WE 1911. Fully polished.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2262/...4302b123_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2038/...f3b0aade_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2023/...162a9c22_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2358/...1674bdea_o.jpg

that is wicked. 1+

Damn, Krame, is that stock or did work on it?

Well, the gun is stock except for the grips. I just stripped all the paint off and then sanded and polished everything.

Heres how it looked before:

Stock:
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1264/...21fd82f4_o.jpg

Then to this:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2376/...4b993501_o.jpg

Now I need a WE for that sole purpose. I will not rest until I have that!

Heres the gun with a bull barrel and recoil rod from my TM hi-capa.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2245/...862e76e7_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2064/...5b8f0d56_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2256/...0840e390_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2012/...37e26a5f_o.jpg

Which stripping, polishing agents did you use? What grain of sandpaper?

+1, I'm already looking for a full metal 1911 for that same purpose.

i dont know for sure but ive polished metal like that before (on a lathe) and he probably used progressively finer grits, getting up to maybe 180 or something, then finished off with emery paper. looks great

How are WE's reliability if we wanted to game them?
(Why is WE being used in the first place?)

Cheap, so if you screw up, it'll cost you much less?

They're all metal to start with.

use 400 waterproff sandpaper then 600 grit....

then use tripoli to pre-polish, then aluminum oxyde for high shine....you will need a handpiece for the polishing stage, well for you can use a lathe if you do not have a handpeice...a low grade handpiece are those dremel that Home Depot sell...that is ok, but will not give you high torque nor high rpm's....I just use my dental handpiece or a high speed lathe that goes up to 50 000 rpm's good on porcelain and non-precious metal "chrome-cobalt".

for pre-polish use 15 000 rpm use firm pressure on the gun to the buffing wheel, then for high shine use a minimum speed of 30 000 rpm but higher around 50 000 is best and use light pressure on the gun and buffing wheel...

you do not have tripoli nor aluminum oxide sticks?...go to canadian tire get a bottle of Blue Magic "chrome polisher" and it will do the job, but that stuff is more like tooth paste texture and might go into places that will be hard to get out after....I used that stuff on non-patient appliances, chrome-cobalt partial denture, acrylic complete dentures, full gold crowns, and many orthodontics appliances that is made from monomers and polymers....it is like a magic shine, but again, it's very soft texture like tooth paste....

since noones said it.


http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwol...l?prodID=23149


Done, you have your silver baller.

Yeah, but in the newest game, you start with a pair of silver 1911s, the AMT long slide is an optional add-on.

Yup, you guys pretty much explained how I did it. I used 'StripperX' paint stripper. Let everything soak in it for about an hour. Used a wire brush to strip the rest of the paint off that doesn't wipe off. After that I used 600 grit automotive wet/dry sandpaper to sand the entire gun and controls. Then sand with 800 grit. Finally I used 'Mother's' metal polish and gave everything about 4 coats of the stuff. All work was done by hand, no dremel.

Yeah, like Duff Man said, they're really just silver M1911s. Silverballers aren't really Hardballers. Said that in my first post.

Quick question, yes I tried searching. If someone finds something on it, then I swear I'm impaired. Apologies.

I've only seen the WE 1911 with no recoil rod, and to my understanding only the "full size" real steel versions came with it. Am I looking at the wrong model when I search "WE 1911" on ebay and other sites? Thanks

-Nathan

The WE doesn't come with a recoil rod. He mentioned that he added it from his Tokyo Marui Hi capa. Never played that game. Does it have a bull barrel and recoil rod? Personally I liked it better without those additions. It still is one sexy @$$ gun though.

Krame, I just managed to trade off one of my M9 for a KJW Para to do about the same job.

I've never done it before but I guess it's not that hard so my question is; how many hours did it take to do it?

Also, I know an armalite's gearbox quite well and I know most of the 1911's slide components but I never managed to take apart a lower frame and it's components. Is it any difficult?

Finally, if it's too complicated to take apart a lower frame and its components and if someone is able to strip and polish quickly using some power tools and lives around Montreal, can you PM me?

Thanks :)

Ah, so a 5" 1911 would be able to switch out with say a....firefly recoil rod, and guarder 1911 outer barrel for hi-capa 5.1 would supplement this?

Jesus Christ that's beautiful. The 1911's all grown up into a BEAUtiful butterfly!

sano, yes and don't forget the bushing thingy thing..

Thanks for the quick replies!

Edit: It also looks like the front has been cut to accommodate the bushing. I hope I'm just wrong and this is much easier than I am saying =)

Nothing has been cut. The bushing part was removed since the bull barrel is larger. That's why it appears it's missing something.

http://www.marstar.ca/images/colt1911b1a.gif

Check part 02, 03 and 036


http://www.gunblast.com/images/SW1911/MVC-017F.jpg
With bushing

http://www.uai.ca/sales/images/bul/B...ull_Barrel.jpg
Sex

Ahh, I see. VERY nice! Thanks for your help Cassius!

My pleasure.

As for my side, I just managed to find some paint stripper and disassembled my TM M1911A1 lower frame just to see if I could manage on my own and yeah; it's not really complicated.

Next up will be to buy some sandpaper :P

Glad you guys like the gun and that I sparked everyone to build one too. The latest pictures are with a bull barrel and recoil rod. The outer barrels for TM should work. It's funny how the bull barrel and recoil rod works in my WE but not in my TM 1911.

The sanding process probably won't take that long. I've done it with a glock before and it takes in total ~2 hrs or less. But I got a head start as I did the initial stripping of paint with a sand blaster.....then work from 200-400-600-800-1200 then hit it with mothers. I'd recommand some sort of clearcoat application afterward to protect the surface, as bare aluminum gets scratched up easily as well as oxidizes. With the above grades you'll get an almost mirror-like chrome effect, if you want a duller silver just don't go as high grade of sand paper(stop at 600-800) then hit with mothers.

Krame,

I've actually got my handgun, stripped it bare, removed the paint and now I'm sanding it like crazy, next up will be some polishing. Finally, I'm ordering a nice metal chamber, outer barrel and some Hogue grips.

I just wanna say thank you for inspiring me to do this project.