Gearing problems
 

It's a Ver. II gearbox with Guarder Torque Up gears. I've set the timing to the 1300 position but when I cycle the shots, the piston keeps releasing afterwards. So I took it back apart and just timed the gears around the 1300 position but keeps having the same problem. The piston is in great shape with no teeth problems along with the gears. Any Ideas ?

The piston is *suppose* to release near the end of the cycle... It doesn't get released before it's wound...

I must not be getting something here...

What I meant was after I stop firing the piston releases itself. I never had any problems with it doing this before.

Sounds like its winding backwards after u stop shooting? Make sure the anti reversal latch is catching properly on the bevel, I had the same problem.

Could be your anti-reversal latch spring became disengaged when you were closing the mechbox. I've had that happen before a few times, easy fix though.

Easy fix, but you need to know what to do...

Open mechbox
Look near the first gear/bevel gear (the one next to the motor)
There is a small lever with a spring on it. It should be placed so that the spring apply tension on the lever against the bevel gear.
Close mechbox carefully

Enjoy! Should solve everything.

If you still can't make it or if you are not sure what to move, get it to a gun doc.

Oh the anti reversal latch causes me much pain. Slightest bump during reassemly and POING! out it comes.

appreciate everyone....yeah when I get a chance to crack it open i'll take a look at it. I had a feeling it was the anti reversal latch due to the way it sound. I'll let ya know if that was it.

Indeed. Fucking antireversal latches. The are the bane of mechboxes.

That's what I thought before I experienced the g36 trigger assembly. At least the anti reversal latch will sometime stay in place, the G36 trigger assembly doesn't stay in place at all.

Seriously, guys, the new MODIFY anti-reversal latch is the cat's ass. Seriously. Just drop in and go.

Seriously.

theres no such thing as timing...

Well took it apart this morning and the anti reversal latch is fine. I even checked it over several times. When outside to fire it and still performed the same way. Except every now and then it would catch. It's got me stumped so I guess i'll have to take the 2 hour drive to see my gun doc. I read skruface mention a MODIFY anti reversal latch but who carries those ?

Sure there is...just about everything mechanically has timing. If the timing is off on the gears inside the mechbox then it won't operate properly.

No there isn't

You can try to put the sector gear in any way you want... even with the nub 180 degrees opposite of where it should be (at 1900) and you will experience two things:

1) You won't be able to install the piston because the sector gear's teeth are in the way, and as a result, you can't close the gearbox.
2) If you have enough hands to do it, you can preload the spring/piston and align the piston with the proper sector gear tooth and close up the gearbox, but the moment you fire your first shot, the cut-off lever will trip the trigger to stop the cycle, and guess where it naturally stops? That's right, at 1300.

So ultimately, it doesn't matter how you put the sector gear, assuming you align it right with the piston (you'll know it's wrong right away because if it's REALLY wrong, you won't even be able to install the piston), the first shot you take in semi-auto will reset the entire circuit to be "timed" correctly.

Even if you throw the nub to the 1400 position, it should still operate correctly. Ultimately, regardless of where you place the nub, the cut-off lever will always trip at the correct place. Why? Because the actual "timing" mechanism is attached to the sector gear - it's the oblong teardrop shape on the bottom side that trips the cut-off lever, and is what times the entire system. NOT where you place the little nub. It's a different story if that part was not one piece with the sector gear and was movable.

aight gotcha my bad then. Guess all that leaves now is why the anti reversal latch isn't doing it's job.

Check the spring strength and make sure the latch can flip unrestricted. Make sure there isn't a buildup of goopy grease in the axle holes.

I actually have a small problem right now or maybe its not a problem and I think it is.

Basically I know that I need to relieve the spring tension by firing a few times on semi. However I noticed that my piston is about 70% back even after I fire in semi, I takes about 10 semi shots to get it at the 0% or all the way in position. I timed my gears to the 1300 position and everything seems to be installed properly. It fires every shot but my only worry is that over time my spring will degrade and I'll have to change it every few games since it stays loaded for long periods of time, and the hassle of disassembling every game is something I don't really want to do.

I'm running

G&P reinforced mechbox
guarder infinate torque up gears
Classic Army High Torque motor
M120 spring.
madbull poly half tooth piston w/ systema silent piston head
Systema cylinder head
G&P air nozzle

*I'm assuming it could be the low battery power problem since I'm using a 8.4 to run this rig....

Yeah I've checked all that over and everything looks good. I guess i'll just buy a new one and try that.

www.airsoftparts.ca

Juggles is awesome to deal with.

Thanks...I may go ahead and get me one of those. Also is there any difference b/w a cylinder with the port on the back and one without it ?

The amount of torque you're running is overkill and most likely the cause for it to wind so much. The system stops based on restriction against rotational momentum after the cut-off lever trips the electrical circuit.
But with that much torque, even the tiniest rotational momentum is enough to keep the piston winding.

Yes, the one without the port has more air volume than the one without.
The ported one should also give a higher rate of fire.

Thanks Brian, I'll throw in my other gears from my AK to see if it solves this problem they should be Standard ratio if I remember correctly.

Alright...I have torque up gears now but i'm gonna switch them out for high speed gears instead. So I guess I should stick with the ported cylinder I have now ?

That totally depends on the length of your inner barrel and doesn't really have anything at all to do with what your gearset is or what your ROF goals are.

The ROF output is just a by-product of the primary purpose of the port, which is to affect air volume.

Gotcha. I just have the stock 363mm barrel. I'll just stick with the same cylinder when I change the gears and piston.

Just a thought.Could the little nub on the sector gear in combo w/ tappet plate be the problem? It's mentioned that a diffrent brand of gears are being used.Kind of like the sector gear in the CA25 w/ the large timing nub w/ longer stroke piston.Whoops-noticed just now a2nd page.Hope you find your solution.

That shouldn't affect the cycle in a negative manner.