Bolt Action Project: VSR G-Spec, M24 Full Upgrades Discussion (Parts, Mods, HPA/CO2 vs Spring, etc)
 

I'm considering a full VSR G-Spec build for a project. In the past I completed a fully customized TM L96 with almost exclusively PDI and Laylax parts, both of which are great parts companies, but in the end I wasn't happy with the L96's hop style. In the last few years companies like VFC and Action Army have been putting out, what appears to be, high quality parts, such as triggers, pistons, etc. My question is; has anyone on here used these parts, or even done a side-by-side comparison?

Thanks.

There is a lot of info at airsoftsniperforums. You could check that site out.

Action Army hop is being favoured at airsoftsniperforums right now.

But with some work you can keep the outside adjusting tm hop...which is perfect for sniping. Rather then taking it down everytime you need to adjust for weight or ect.

Keep the stock TM hop chamber then go full PDI internals. :)

The Action Army parts are cheap for a reason. They're okayish, but not the best. I am not impressed by their cylinder and piston. While I never used their hop-up unit, feedback has that they require some work, you will definitely need a new nub, and it has all the drawbacks of the PDI chamber without any of the advantages. It's a crappy one part design where you have to push the barrel and rubber inside like AEGs which makes precise adjustments to the angle of the hop-up rubber pretty much impossible, and you don't even have left-right adjustment available like the PDI chamber to compensate. You will also have to remove the mag and fiddle with an Allen wrench every time you want to adjust your hop-up, which gets old really fast and is why I ditched the PDI chamber in the first place. You should definitely stick the the TM chamber, just get and upgraded hop-up arm and shim it correctly and it will work marvel, and you will get none of that BB side-hooking people are complaining about with the stock chamber and heavy BBs, which is the only "advantage" of the AA chamber.

If you do end up buying the Action Army cylinder, you will need a large diameter piston, like the Laylax or the Action (just "Action", not action army, yeah, confusing) piston. Smaller pistons like the PDI and King Arms will just leak like crazy. Stay away from the action army piston, its a terrible design with glued o-rings as shock dampeners and it has no air brake and its impossible to fit one in.

That was an informative post, thanks Drakker and everyone. I'm lucky I can bug ThunderCactus personally...and I do regularly. His old G-Spec was outstanding. Also I bug Damage when I see him out and about.

My goal is to have a gun shooting sub 450 FPS (on 0.20g) and probably run 0.36g or so. It's going to be made as quiet as possible with whatever mods and suppression I can throw in it. There's a plethora of forest out here, so I need it to be safe for fairly close engagement (it'll be paired with a suppressed TM MK23), but be able to get those accurate plus250' shots.

So that being said, pound for pound, what's the highest performance parts technically possible?

Make/model: Tokyo Marui VSR G-Spec

Barrel: Laylax/Prometheus 6.03mm, 430mm stainless

Trigger: PDI V-trigger

Cylinder set: PDI (should I get a cylinder/piston set)

Hop: stick with TM, change the rubber and mod the arm.

Barrel spacers: Laylax?

I don't know in what kind of wood land you play in, but during the summer when there is a lot of foliage, in semi dense to dense woodland, expect engagement distances closer to 100-150 feet. Also, 250 feet shots in woodland are incredibly hard, you ALWAYS hit a twig or something.

G-Specs are very hard to make quiet unless you extend the barrel through the suppressor, but then you lose the advantage of the short rifle. In woodland I find that a shorter rifle is a huge advantage, especially when its strapped on your back and you have to move fast.

The PDI V-Trigger is the best trigger, the pull is a bit harder, but its manageable and predictable.

The PDI cylinder is amazing, not so for their piston and cylinder head. The o-ring shock dampening is crap and they will fall off. Since you have access to ThunderCactus, get him to install a long air brake on the PDI piston head. You can also mod the PDI cylinder head to accept a sorbo pad. You will need access to a lathe and something that can handle stainless steel, but basically you remove the o-ring and then remove the excess stainless to flatten the head a bit. That will remove some of the fluting, but using a sorbo will increase durability and really help dampen noise. If you go PDI and don't plan to use an air brake, go with the Hard Piston/kit. The Vacuum system is shit and useless, all it does is make your FPS less stable unless you plug the hole with an air brake. The King Arms piston works very well in the PDI cylinder, with a modded cylinder head you'd get a pretty good and stealthy combo. The King Arms piston might need a larger o-ring, but actually, in the VSR world, that can be true of any piston. Also, to maintain perfect seal, that o-ring will have to be changed relatively often.

If you can r-hop the barrel it would be great, then you can use a hop arm like the maple leaf.

http://img-cdn.redwolfairsoft.com/up...-ML-003-1L.jpg

Otherwise get the Maple Leaf rubber and the same arm, its a great combo. You might have to mod the barrel to accept the rubber, the hop window "bridge" has to be removed. You can buy barrels that already have that bridge removed anyway.

Barrels spacers can be any brand really, if you order PDI stuff from x-fire.org, get their spacers, they are the cheapest that way.

So are recommending a PDI cylinder, modified PDI nozzle and King Arms piston over ANY other variation, or if money was no object, what would you go with?

He's in van, so expect 400ft clear engagement distance in the forest lol

Im curious about the action army V trigger clone. The pdi V trigger is built to handle something like 650fps, so if the AA clone is just a bit weaker, it might be fine at 450ish
Id go with pdi cylinder and piston, laylax 430 inner, air brake and sorbo.
Firefly hard or I can rhop it. Alhough my original VSR was pretty damn amazing, I dont know what it was like at 300ft since I never had to make those shots. Was more concerned about being silent up close.

Well, we have all field types here, but forest silence and consistent open area distance would be nice. Some areas are quite thick well others are grassland, or the trees are far, far apart with little to no bushes in between.

I'd be down with you R-hopping and air-braking it for me. Frank If you had to do it all over would you R-hop or stick with the same as last time? Reviews on the AA V-trigger seem to be good, but we know the PDI one is sublime already, so it's whatever. Maybe I should try it and see... So I guess it's a PDI HC cylinder set then? I was always gonna get a Laylax short barrel.

I have a tough time imagining suppressor over barrel is better than suppressor past barrel. How would that work? Wouldn't foam absorbing sound that has left the barrel be superior than just absorbing it through?

If money was no object and skill was available locally I'd go with a PDI cylinder, a modified PDI cylinder head with sorbo and PDI vacuum piston with the hole plugged with a custom made LONG air brake. I'd keep it G-Spec length and use a 300mm barrel from Laylax or PDI with the bridge removed and an r-hopped. I'd buy the Airsoft Pro hop-up lever arm, file the bump away, install a proper m-nub. The G-Spec has a lot of over volume, which is why it makes it hard to make it silent, but a long air brake and a sorbo fix that problem. The hard part is finding someone to make the air brake, you can't actually buy it in online stores.

Since money is in short supply and local skill is not available, I settled for the PDI cylinder + King Arms piston with a short air brake, but I'm looking into finding a long screw with proper threading to make a custom long air brake that fits the KA piston.

Interesting. Yeah, money may or may not be a factor and I'll have to mail the gun to Frank, which I'll likely do.

On that note, the quietest sniper rifle, or even any airsoft gun I have ever seen, was a VSR G-Spec. Lots was put into making it quiet, but I've never seen that level of silence replicated, not by a MK23, not be an APS2, nothing.

The most silent airsoft gun I've ever seen was my good old A&K SVD. It's dead now, the crappy pot metal receiver bent while stored in a too tight gun case, but that gun was absolutely silent. I used a PSG1 140% (160%?) spring, a Prometheus 6.03 590mm barrel and an Airsoft Pro piston and cylinder head with a sorbo pad a Lee's custom piston head with an air brake. It shot a consistent 380 fps, not super high, which helps make the thing silent, but the silence level was just crazy. My MK23 was louder.

Frank's old G-Spec was just the trigger click and you'd damn near have to have your head beside it to hear that. I had a friend way back that had a Classic Army G36 that was deadly quiet. Not as quiet as the G-Spec, but near as quiet as the MK23.

My SVD was never THAT quiet. You'd still hear a low pitched thunk when the piston hit, but only when you had your head near it.

I'm sure he heard the piston when he fired it (cheek weld), but from 10' plus,...nothin'. Air brake, suppressor (I think), foam filled stock, etc. Plus it's Frank, his builds are scary good. He had a G&P M249 that was a terror.

The loudest thing on the gun was the V-trigger releasing the piston lol

His point of running the shorter barrel is so you can run it without the suppressor, to have a shorter rifle. But being 8 feet tall, you'd look REAL goofy with a short rifle!

I had the 430mm barrel in mine, not that it really matters anyway since barrel length doesn't mean anything. You might be a bit more joule creep from a 430 than a 300? I don't really know.
Anyway, the suppressor won't really matter anyway since the air brake is what's cutting all the noise out.
You'll hear the whiz of the BB flying by and that's about it. My 430 barrel ended about 1/2" from the end of a suppressor that had probably a 10mm aperture. So unless the air was leaving the barrel sideways, I don't think that suppressor was doing anything except look good.

The contrary is true in my M14 though, my suppressor make a massive difference in what you're able to hear on the receiving end. Can't hear the gun from >20ft and it doesn't even have an air brake.

Suppressors will work if you have a lot of over volume, which is the case of the G-Spec. Longer barrels will use more of that volume, reducing sound output significantly. With the exact same base setup, my G-Spec is a lot noisier with it's 300mm barrel than with a 509mm barrel in a Well super-long VSR10. I used to run my PDI cylinger and piston kit in said MB03 and it was very silent, even without the air brake and a sorbo pad. In my G-Spec its just fucking loud and even louder than some AEGs.

The 430mm 6.03 actually gives you the perfect cyl volume to barrel ratio. The piston "hits" (more like a gentle caress) the cylinder head before a .30g BB leaves the barrel.
My VSR was actually dead silent BEFORE I put an air brake in it. I put the brake in once parts had worn in and small air leaks developed.

The sound of the piston hitting the cylinder head is where all the noise comes from that you hear at distance. The sound of air leaving the barrel doesn't carry very far.

I'm gonna grab the 430mm Prometheus. I don't want the gun to be super long, but I think I will put some type suppressor on there. That being said, I'm not gonna mind a little extra length either. I'll get Frank to R-hop it for me if he wants to. I've had good results with AA and Maple Leaf rubbers so far and Firefly can be hard to find in stock, in fact I had a nightmare finding them last time, also buying a few things locally and limiting the out of country orders to one would be helpful. This should be a fun project, I enjoyed the L96, other than how hard it was to find everything and then the hop was mediocre.

I'm going to make a custom gun ghillie out of netting and cored and shredded para-cord. I'd also like to get a solid sling to lash the gun tightly to my back. Any recommendations?

For the sling, in my opinion, you have two good options. There's the newer elastic slings, which don't dangle too much and keep the rifle well in place on your back. Make sure you get one without metal attachment clips, you'd want something that straps directly on the sling mount points. The only disadvantage is that over time the bolt handle or scope might start hurting your back because of the pressure. Otherwise, the sling I use right now is an old communist era Chinese sling. The attach points are leather, so its totally silent, it's easily adjustable, cheap and incredibly though.

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/king-arms...sling-tan.html
http://www.ahagreat.com/surplus-viet...1881_p768.html -- this one is all leather so its more expensive, but its the only link I could find real quick, the regular canvas one is cheaper.

I might also happen to have spares of both available. ;)

I guess I'll roll into DS Tac and see what they've got.

What about for holding mags? What pouches do you guys use?

Pistol mag pouches or fake repro Vietnam era 1911A1 pistol mag pouches that are slightly bigger than regular mag pouches. The advantage of the fake Vietnam era ones is that they are pretty much silent, that can't be said of modern velcro pouches.

http://www.bbdragon.com.tw/product_i...roducts_id/240

Get a crye compact assault ghillie! It has everything you love:
-compact
-lightweight
-very effective
-its crye
-probably has really good cable routing

As always, your advice is much appreciated... I don't use anything that doesn't have cable routing.

Don't mean to threadjack but I've been thinking of switching up the hop rubber situation in my vsr. What are the best options, with all the crazy rubbers out there these days it's kind of making my head spin. I've been getting really great results with traditional ones (particularly the laylax purple) so I'm not really sold on the whole r-hop thing. What have you been getting good results with?

I purchased an AA one for my MK23 that's been great and I keep hearing solid things about Maple. Thunder swears by the Fireflies, but they need importation and can be out of stock a lot.

If you already have a good hop-up rubber, the R-Hop is unlikely to give you significantly more range, but it does get you a flatter trajectory which makes aiming somewhat easier.

I've personally been getting good results with a lot of rubbers. But one advantage of the "newer" rubbers with larger bumps like the A+ and the Maple Leaf is that they are great with heavy BBs, you don't need to set your hop-up at max to lift them. The disadvantage is that in some guns, they will severely over-hop lighter BBs. I put a Maple Leaf rubber in my CA MP5K and it over-hops 0.30g BBs at the minimum hop setting.

I'm building up an Gspec also but from a JG Bar10 Gspec. I got the AA hopip unit, Maple leaf 70 rubber, Maple leaf inner barrel (so far, quite happy with it in my MP7) and will have a Wolverine BOLT system with the Wraith into he stock. Both high density plumbing foam to probable stuff inside the hollow parts, suppressor and stock to make the Wraith stable.

I suppose with the HPA system will help for consistency and have it silent.

**Drakker.. when I'll get it done, I'll bring it to a MATS night to see your verdict.. ahahaha

Haha, I'm sure its going to be better than mine on every point; range, accuracy, stealth, etc. But mine doesn't have a huge tank attached... and you know, the real wood stock makes it a better weapon anyway.

But you will want to ditch the AA hop-up unit really fast, trust me. One frustrating night of hop-up adjustment and you'll throw it out the window.

How easy is it to swap back and forth between spring and HPA on a VSR, does anyone know?

If you don't remove the gas line on the stock, it's no longer than swapping a cylinder, so a 10 minutes jobs.

I'll run the Wraith system so 12G CO2 canister into the stock so no line ;)

I've read on several pages that AA was the thing right now compare to PDI and everything on the market. I know Airsoft Pro was a no-no with HPA due to proprietary cylinder head. Worst case, I'm really good at swearing.

Like Drakker said, it's not a big deal. The only difference is it work better with a stock trigger assembly. The trigger pull is ridiculous, about 2mm. Only time will tell if I made a good decision or not. But the good decision I made is the one I won't install it

With CO2 you won't get the benefit of HPA. CO2 is not super stable and power will vary form shot to shot and from a new canister to an almost empty canister.

The AA chamber fixes the side hop problem people are getting with the two piece TM or JG chambers when using very heavy BBs. But there are easier ways to fix the side hop, all you need is a better hop-up arm and to shim it well if required. I have the Dangerwerx arm and no shimming was required in the TM chamber, it fits perfectly. The stock plastic arm can bend and cause side-hop, but a good quality metal arm will not. That is all you need really. Then you get all the advantages of the stock chamber, first you don't need to remove the magazine and fiddle with an Allen key to adjust hop. Second, the two pieces chamber makes it extremely easy to align your bucking perfectly. Third, it's TM, the tolerances are amazing, and its quite durable.

AA V-trigger clone have some fitting ussues =/
The spring guide stopper doesnT' fit in the cylinder. You have to dremel the window a bit. And some player experienced an other problem. The stopper stuck in the cylinder end (the pieces inside splitted in half)
Here is a video of the problem and how to fix it : http://2shots1kill.com/action-army-z...ation-problem/

As for the Hop-up Chambre and bucking, get the Action Army, or keep the stock one!
I use the stock Hop-Up Tokyo Marui Unit for 7 years now, never had any problem! Nicel grouping at 200-250 feet. But you need to work on it a bit to have the best result =/

DangerWerx and the other upgraded Arm/lever solve the right curve problem
( I still have some DangerWerx High Engagement lever if you need one ;p)
And as Drakker said, you may need to shim a bit and unit dental floss / teflon tape to improve sealing on the rubber!

Never used the new Maple Leaf rubber. But the old Nineball Purple, Modify Tan, PDI W-Hold et Firefly hard give very good result and consistance once breaked.

Yah, the Wraith require a Inline adapter for pressure made to accommodate that. It's designed to keep it stabilized unless going full-retard but it's kinda difficult with bolt action. I've read and watch before going into that process.

Indeed, I'm sure it could do a better job but for now, it's here and gonna give it a shot. It also say it take VSR/GBB type bucking in the product, not AEG. I'll see it and give you an update when it's in the process of installation. It could have changed after bad result but you're way more aware then me.

My bad, it does take VSR/GBB buckings. It turns out its possible to use AEG barrels in them with slight modifications to VSR buckings, not using AEG buckings, I had it reversed.

I'm going to stick with springer for now, though I may do an HPA setup later, but it'll likely be an a different platform altogether. I'm looking into the Classic Army M24 or something like that and use a CO2 cartridge setup. So here's a question then; Mancraft Sdik or Wolverine bolt? Reviews online are split down the middle. Sdik is a fully mechanical unit versus Wolverine's bolt, which has a solenoid requiring a battery, also the Mancraft is much cheaper, but the Wolverine is supposedly a little better in the overall consistency. Has anyone else researched this?


Back into springers. Well, even though opinions vary on the Action Army hop being good or bad, both sides agree that the stock hop modified is fantastic, so I think that answers that question.

I'm going with the V-trigger over the zero. It has a slightly harder pull, but seems to be better liked overall.

Cylinder sets on the other hand, it seems to be PDI, but which one? Drakker says not the VC set, so HD? Can you just swap out nozzles to get one that'll accept sorbo or must you modify the PDI one?

Barrel is gonna be a Prommy 430mm, stainless 6.03. I think I will attempt an R-hop.

I'm going for about 450 FPS (on 0.20g) or slightly less, so which spring will get me there? Brand, type and power recommendations would be great.

Are the TM mags best or after markets?

If you plan to use an air brake, you need the VC piston, its the only one where you can screw one in. If you don't plan to use an air brake, then the HD kit is better because it has better FPS consistency.

If you want to use a sorbo in a PDI kit, you will need to modify the cylinder head. As far as I know, no other cylinder head will fit (I tried KA, AA and Well but none would fit). You might want to try your luck with other brands, but it seems like risky business to me. ;)

I've read somewhere of people using custom thin sorboes to replace the o-rings, but I have doubts about the durability of a really thin sorbo pad.

My favorite mags are the red fires. They are incredibly cheap and they have a longer arm to push BBs, that arm protrudes out of the mag and blocks the cylinder when its empty. No more dry fire at the worst of times.

http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwol...for_VSR_10.htm

I can put an air brake on an hd piston no problem. The vc system isnt really worth it, its just easier to airbrake. I had a vc on the vsr and left a hole in the airbrake so the vc would still work. On the M24 i didnt leave a hole to prototype the first air brake, but I found it made no difference in the bolt pull anywah, so im just not using the vc system at all.
And you shouldnt even need a sorbo after i airbrake it

Well, I do want an air-brake, so I guess VC it is. I wonder why the inconsistency?

What about spring? 450-ish on 0.20g is the goal.

What round weight does everyone use?

Get a spring for 470 and 500 cause between possible joule creep and the air brake, ill tune it into 450

And .36s at 2j, .43 work too but i like .36s

I didn't know you made them yourself. Any chance you could make one of those airbrakes and ship it? I have a VC piston, I don't need to keep the VC system, it can be sealed.

Yeah I can send you my old one, I need a longer one and a stronger spring to do some muzzle energy tuning

It's strange how all the online info, videos, etc, are about removing an air-brake and not how to create one.

How long is your old one? (That's probably the weirdest question I've asked on these boards so far).

If you want to use very heavy BBs at very high FPS, you need all the air volume you can get and the air brake gets in the way. But under 500 fps, its desirable to use the air brake for noise reduction and durability.

Bolt has better consistency at the moment on C02. A lot of players are having trouble with the mancraft unit consistency. Fps varies a lot between each shot ( +/- 10 to 20 Fps depending on the set up). But a few players are not having trouble at all with fps variation... Maybe a question of quality check or the way the regulator is designed
I also know you need to upgrade your SDIK unit with an O-ring somewhere on the cylinder head to make it quiet. Without it, it's a lot more noisy then the Bolt unit.

Mancraft is releasing a new regulator in a few weeks. Something with a double expansion chamber, giving a better consistency. Co2 is a liquid gas in the cartridge, and when liquid co2 gets in the system , that make fps variation. With the double expansion chambre, all the liquid transform into gas, which mean less fps variation.

We'll see the result of that.
But for the moment, I'd still chose the Minecraft unit over the Bolt, juste because of the price and the fact that you need to buy their cylinder.... And their overpriced regulator

Long enough to make a gun without a sorbo pretty freaking quiet
Its just friction fit so easy to install as well

You didn't have a sorbo in yours?

So what's a 480-500 spring? Is it trial and error?

Made the air brake before I put a sorbo in, not that it really makes any difference.
Loudest thing the the sear releasing the piston, which is actually quite noisy for the shooter.

The spring rating is going to be very inaccurate. You're going with a 6.03, so that helps reduce joule creep quite a bit, but due to the volume and bb weight, its a tad unpredictable.
Anyway, best bet is to aim 50-100fps over. The air brake is going to reduce the volume of air able to propel the BB, and you'll lose anywhere from 30+ fps, but the thing is its WAY easier for me to adjust the length of the airbrake than it is to fiddle around with springs and shit.

So with mine, im on target for power, but still loud. So im getting a stronger spring and a longer airbrake. Then just have 2 airbrakes depending if I can run 2j or 2.3j. Kinda like swapping springs but cooler.

Man I really got away from this project. So Thunder convinced me to go with the M24 seeing as how his new build is having great success. It's a tough choice between the VSR family and the M24 family as they both ha e their merits, but essentially they are the same thing at their core, so it's upgrades and mods that'll really bring a BA to life. Thunder got a Snow Wolf M24, which is a little different than the Classic Army, the flagship M24, and is a match to the Javelin, both of which use the APS2 system more or less. I finally settled on the Modify-Tech M24 for it's initial build quality and features. It's in the Snow Wolf APS2 family, but it's stock trigger and cylinder set are high grade hardened steel and high quality aluminum right out of the box. The trigger has a pull distance and resistance adjustment, so time will tell if it will survive, or eventually need a PDI or Laylax replacement. The cylinder set and bolt handle are also supposed to be higher end, but we'll see how they seal and how they last.

Like it's brothers and sisters it has a solid one piece stock, which has a more realistic size, weight and feel versus the VSR guns. The hop-up has an exterior G-Spec style adjuster, which is a great feature, but the hop-up is slightly proprietary and although it is said to be compatible with some of the aftermarket hops, there may be some modding or fit issues. I haven't heard any complaints about the mags though, which is something that seems to plague the M24 guns. It is compatible with many other brands, such as Snow Wolf, which is good as the Modify mags are expensive compared to most BA springer guns. Some do have an LED upgrade feature that allows you to run glow-in-the-dark rounds, so maybe that's why the price is up.

I ordered the Tan version brand new from Toronto Airsoft, which is on sale now, and apparently comes shooting just under 500 FPS. My goal is to keep it under 450 FPS, so I'll need to downgrade the spring immediately. My first changes will be a high quality Laylax 6.03mm barrel, an R-hop to the stock hop of possible, fill foam the stock, sorbo and possibly airbrake the cylinder and fit the whole thing with a foam suppressor. I'm also working on a custom gun wrap/ghillie made from camo netting and paracord. I may forgo a bipod to start, or just get a short one and I'll also need a scope, not sure which type yet.

If anyone has had one of these feel free to chime in. I'll try and keep everyone updated as I go. I've been having good success with 0.32g Elite Force, which are locally available, but I may try a 0.36g or even 0.49g if I want a bit more consistency.

I can't really comment on the modify M24, but for the bipod and scope issue, yeah. I'll say that the bipod is a waste of money. It makes your rifle heavier, harder to aim while not using it, and it snags in branches and stuff when you crawl. Not something desirable at all. For the scope, its really up to you, but a real steel scope is a must, you want it to stay adjusted when you bump into stuff, or if for some reason you accidentally drop the weapon or something. Also, there's more scopes with level "bulbs" on them and now even inside the scope so you can see it while aiming. If you are shooting long range, they will be a great help to ensure your shots don't start flying to the side because your rifle is not straight. I'd check those. Of course, any great quality scope coupled with a rail mounted level would do the same. A level is not required, but it can be helpful, and considering how cheap it is, it might be a good buy for you.

Author notes: I don't have one, but sometimes I wish I did. If I bought a scope today, I'd get one with a level.

I'll look into that, it sounds like a decent enough idea. Another thing is the eye relief. I'm going to grab a scope with large eye relief and a shroud for quicker acquisition. As I'm not going to shooting bullets, it's important to give myself as much time as possible. On one of my last failed sniper projects, the TM L96, I had a larger scope which worked wonders in that regard. It looked a little big for the rifle, but who cares. I've seen quite a few videos and pictures of players using a more assault oriented scope on their BA builds, like an ACOG, so I'll look into the merits of that as well.

I'll try with no bipod to start, I don't need the extra weight and I think I'll be more active than just lying around.

I should go get some acoustic foam as well, which I think I can buy by the sheet. I may use it in the stock versus the expanding foam and will replace the foam of the suppressor with it.