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WildBill357 August 1st, 2016 13:25

Buyin TM sidearm
 
I am almost ready to buy my first GOOD airsoft gun....have a plastic HK416 (borrow a G&G carbine mostly) but want to try something from TM to see if they ar worth the extra %40 in cost (i dont doubt they are...im just finally gunna know for sure)...I guess im looking for a side arm that shoots consistently, w/ a mag that holds around 30 shots.....anything that is consistent and reliably accurate

found a Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa 5.1 Stainless Version GBB Pistol for $300

that an ok deal?

devbro August 1st, 2016 13:41

stainless steel? As in with metal slide? just make sure that it has the TM logo on the right side of the firearm. you may need to change the slide to something metal in a year of excess usage.

If it is made by TM itself, it will shoot very accurately and worth every penny. In case you need to mod or fix anything on it, make sure to consult a gun dr for it.

lurkingknight August 1st, 2016 14:09

tm pistols and aegs come with no metal exteriors, if it's stainless it's just the finish on the plastic.

In canada new tm pistols go for around 260-300$ depending if there's a sale on.

Ricochet August 1st, 2016 15:11

Most TMs are solid out of the box and require little upgrading or modding. A PDI barrel and upgraded bucking are the only immediate go-to upgrades. You may place a stabilizer in the hop arm later on to help evenly apply pressure on the bucking, but that's not always necessary. TMs are typically very reliable and perform well on lower FPS, which is good because you can take the anywhere (inside, outside, etc) and won't stick BBs in people's faces. The plastic construction actually works for you instead of against as plastic is lighter weight and flexes with the gun as it cycles. Yes, TM guns are more expensive than some brands, but many brands are actually clones/copies of TM guns and their systems.

e-luder August 1st, 2016 15:39

The Hi capa stainless is just the like the Silver Deagle they sell. It's just plastic made to look like it has a "Stainless" finish. Tje slide is not actually metal but plastic. They first did this to their P226 line.

Anyways, The Hi-capa is a good choice, IMHO.

Im not going to regurtate what Ricochet said. it's pretty much spot on.

I will say this though.
Your group really need to travel to the mainland for Age verification.
I know your group has stated that the cost may be high to cross but its definitely beneficial for you guys in the long run.

Guns in our classifieds is much cheaper than Retail. Plus most are packaged deals. $300 can get you an upgraded Pistol with a couple mags, example.

Plus AEGs galore in there!!!

WildBill357 August 1st, 2016 16:06

so Hi-cappa is a good choice for accuraccy and mag cap? also looking at the glocks 1911s and p226....but really just want it to be accurate (i will buy a replacement barrel for it at the same time if i need to) & hi mag capacity (28+).
@e-luder: if i could get into the classiffieds, i'd totally get a TM that has ALREADY been modified with the PDI and whatever else but its cheaper to just order it new and mod it myself then to pay bcferries the outrages vehicle rates to go get AVd...one day hopefully no biggy

BrendanL August 1st, 2016 16:11

I'll just add something quick, I resisted getting a TM pistol for years being turned off by the plastic and "wow'd" by the full metal clones.

I recently picked up a Hi- capa 4.3 and am in love with it. Slide is smooth as butter, I get a ton of shots out of a magazine and its a nail driver. I got a great deal on it and now don't think i'll ever go back, seems this sidearm will last me a good amount of time. Worth the money.

JKxWKW August 1st, 2016 16:31

Recently picked up a TM 226 and i love it. I think a downside of stock TMs is that the FPS is a bit low compared to others. I could be wrong or its just mine.

lurkingknight August 1st, 2016 17:07

I like the ergonomics of the 226 better than the hicappa. both have pretty decent aftermarket parts availability. the cappa probably has more bling options if you're building a race gun. For milsim/gaming I'd prefer the 226

Ricochet August 1st, 2016 21:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by JKxWKW (Post 1986045)
Recently picked up a TM 226 and i love it. I think a downside of stock TMs is that the FPS is a bit low compared to others. I could be wrong or its just mine.

FPS on them is supposed to be low (300 - 330 stock). Though a tightbore and high flow mag valves will change that, but upping the FPS isn't necessary at all.

The TM P226 is an excellent gun, though the E2 version wasn't my favourite. The 1911s don't hold much gas in the mags due to being really thin, but the guns are solid.

WildBill357 August 14th, 2016 18:16

thankx for all your input, after some research im thinking of waiting til i have enough for the hi-cappa 4.3....whats the different between the 5.1? i really cannt tell the difference in reliability by reading reviews..ppl love em both....but im looking for an accurate pistol, good on gass, 30+mag, cheap spare mags (i like at least 4 spares if the gun is gunna last me a few years..)

e-luder August 14th, 2016 21:10

http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=94413

Quote:

Originally Posted by ILLusion (Post 1113673)
FAQ

Q1: Which should I get? A Hi-Capa 4.3? Or a Hi-Capa 5.1?
A1: That depends on what you want to use it for, and what you're willing to sacrifice for certain benefits of the chosen pistol.

4.3 Pros:
  • Shorter overall length allows easier handling
  • Fixed rear sight is more robust due to no moving parts for greater durability
  • Single sided safety lever and shorter beavertail tang provides a lower drag profile
  • Shorter (lighter) slide requires less time to cycle and requires less gas to cycle than the 5.1
  • Integrated lanyard loop so you won't lose your pistol on the field.

4.3 Cons:
  • Shorter barrel does not achieve as high velocity or accuracy as the 5.1
  • Fixed rear sight can not be adjusted to compensate for windage or elevation deviations for more precise shooting
  • Single sided safety lever is not "lefty friendly", or not ideal for competitive shooting where the shooter is required to shoot with left hand only. This is fixable, through the purchase of ambidextrous safety levers. It is not a difficult upgrade.

5.1 Pros:
  • Longer barrel provides higher velocity and accuracy than the 4.3
  • Longer overall length provides easier natural pointability
  • Adjustable rear sight can be adjusted to compensate for windage or elevation deviations for more precise shooting
  • Ambidextrous safety levers allow versatility to operate the pistol with either hand.

5.1 Cons:
  • Longer overall length may make the gun a bit more cumbersome to manipulate and handle than the 4.3
  • Adjustable rear sight has many small parts in it that can potentially break
  • Longer (heavier) slide takes a bit more time to cycle and requires a bit more gas to cycle (not really noticeable with the stock plastic slide.)

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Q2: How do I disassemble "such-and-such" part? How do I disassemble the Hi-Capa?
A2: Watch this video:

YouTube - Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa Disassembly

This is a complete disassembly of a Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa 5.1 down to almost every last piece. Single stack series TM based pistols (such as the 1911 / MEU / Detonics / etc) follows similar basic concepts.

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Q3: How do I assemble "such-and-such" part? How do I assemble the Hi-Capa?
A3: Watch this video:

YouTube - Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa Assembly

This is a complete disassembly of a Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa 5.1 down to almost every last piece. Single stack series TM based pistols (such as the 1911 / MEU / Detonics / etc) follows similar basic concepts.

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Q4: I want to use a silencer... I'd need a threaded barrel. What can you tell me about that?
A4: If you want a metal threaded outer barrel, all of the existing mass produced threaded barrel products:
- Are difficult to source
- Causes a mechanical hindrance which results in anything from cycling issues to excessive gas consumption to physical damage/excessive wear to your slide.

The latter is due to the way a traditional barrel functions and what happens when a weight (the suppressor/tracer) is attached to the muzzle. The result of a tilting barrel combined with a heavy object on the muzzle, will shift the balance of the barrel, and cause the top of the chamber to bear a lot of pressure against the underside of the slide. A hard friction against the moving slide doesn't bode well for reliability, function and gas efficiency.

Because of the lack of a "proper" product on the market, ILLusion Kinetics has developed an outer barrel that is fixed, does not tilt and you could attach silencers on your pistol and it would still fire fine.

The threaded portion is actually machined to the muzzle of the barrel, so it's rock solid and can be machined in any thread size you want. The generic size is 14mm-.

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Q5: What is "LDC"? What is a "Long Dust Cover" versus a "Short Dust Cover"? What is the "Dust Cover"? What's the difference between a 5.1 LDC and a 4.3?
A5: "LDC" = Long Dust Cover. It refers to the frame's dust cover (the front/muzzle portion of the frame... it acts as a cover to keep dust out of the internals.)

Here is an example photo of the differences:

http://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...7455/large.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...7456/large.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...7457/large.jpg

The top version is standard Marui Hi-Capa 5.1, with a standard "short" dust cover type frame, with scalloping in the muzzle of the slide to mate with the end of the short dust cover.

With an "LDC" setup (like the 4.3 and the 5" on the bottom), you'll notice that besides the longer dust cover on the frame, there are also no scalloped cuts in the slide. It is what we call "block cut" to mate with an LDC frame.



Ultimately, it is up to you to decide how you want to configure it... some people like the look of a block cut slide on a short dust cover frame, or the look of a scalloped slide on a long dust cover frame, but purists will scream bloody murder if you do such a thing. There ARE real steel manufacturers that mix it up on occasion, but it's generally rare to find an not preferred since snag points are created at the muzzle end of the slide (due to the overhanging corners.) Mixing a block cut slide on to a short dust cover frame can cause damage to the bottom corners of the slide at the muzzle and/or can damage your holster as well as create difficulty in holstering the pistol. This is why scalloping exists on slides.

Reversing the parts, putting a scalloped slide on a long dust cover frame can build up dust/dirt/grit around the scalloping where it meets the frame. This would tend to be counterproductive to the purpose of a dust cover.

For clarification:
Despite the 4.3 having a shorter barrel (4.3") than the 5.1 (5.1"), the Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa 4.3 actually has a LONGER dust cover than the Hi-Capa 5.1. Look again at the photos. The Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa 5.1 would have what's called a "Short Dust Cover", whereas the Hi-Capa 4.3 would have what's called a "Medium Dust Cover." A full block cut 5.1 would have a LONG dust cover - typically, these can only be found through aftermarket manufacturers, or by clone manufacturers (such as WE.)

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Q6: What parts can you swap?
A6: Pretty much EVERYTHING! Here is a basic list of items currently manufactured under the ILLusion Kinetics brand:
  • Frame (steel or aluminum, different lengths/shapes/colours)
  • Slide (steel or aluminum, custom designs/shapes/styles/colours/lengths)
  • Barrel (stainless steel, one piece, fixed for infinite durability of slide or tilting for realistic action, custom chamber engravings)
  • Sights (fibre optic, steel, fixed, adjustable)
  • Trigger (Aluminum, different shapes, different colours, adjustable pull length)
  • Trigger Stirrup (Stainless steel, adjustable pull length - combined with adjustable trigger can provide a 1mm trigger pull for competitive use)
  • Mag Catch (Stainless steel polished silver or black oxide steel, pre-centred for attachment of enlarged paddle)
  • Slide Catch (Stainless steel, different finishes, matte or polished)
  • Hammer (Steel, different shapes, lighter weight for faster lockup times, hardened surface and re-shaped hooks for smoother/lighter trigger pulls)
  • Hammer Strut (rigid hardened steel for faster lock up times and greater hammer response)
  • Sear (hardened surface and re-shaped hooks for smoother/lighter trigger pulls)
  • Sear Disconnect Lever (polished stainless steel for greater durability and smoother movement)
  • Valve Knocker (hardened steel for greater durability and more solid valve strikes)
  • Valve Knocker Disconnect Lever (polished stainless steel for greater durability and smoother movement)
  • Blowback Unit (light weight aircraft aluminum for faster slide cycling, integrated piston head for better air seal and shot to shot consistency)
  • Leaf Spring (stainless steel, provides lighter trigger pull)

And some other parts that are available from other manufacturers (I carry many of these as well):
  • Grip (different shapes, colours, sizes)
  • Beavertail (Grip) Safety (different shapes and styles, polished stainless steel or black oxide steel)
  • Safety Levers (different shapes and styles, single side or ambidextrous, polished or matte finish stainless steel or black oxide steel)
  • Slide Catch (different shapes and styles, single side or ambidextrous, polished stainless steel or black oxide steel)
  • Inner Barrel (different lengths, different bores, for greater accuracy and/or velocity)
  • Hop Up Rubber (improves seal/velocity/consistency/accuracy)
  • Loading Nozzle (greater durability)
  • Piston Head (better seal, improves gas consumption and cycling speed)
  • Titanium Screws (lighter weight)
  • Main Spring Housing (different sizes/shapes/finishes/colours)
  • Shock Buffers (increases durability of slide to frame contact, can short-stroke for faster cycling speed)
  • Floating Valve (increases velocity, shot consistency and improved gas consumption)
  • Floating Valve Blocker (greater durability)
  • Recoil Spring (increased cycling speed)
  • Main Spring (improved gas reliability)
  • Loading Nozzle Spring (replacement)
  • Floating Valve Spring (increased velocity)
  • Plunger Spring (replacement)
  • Valve Knocker Spring (replacement)
  • Valve Knocker Disconnect Spring (replacement)
  • Mag Catch Spring (replacement)
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Q7: What should I upgrade? What parts do you recommend I upgrade?
A7: Aesthetics are a personal preference, so for the sake of this guide, I will exclude aesthetic decision. I'm not going to pick what you wear for the day, so I won't tell you how your pistol should look.
However, the choice of performance parts is dependent on what performance characteristics you're after. This is, one of the most common questions asked, and the answer is as broad as the question itself. It comes down to "what performance characteristics would you like to improve?" And this will now segue in to the next section... Performance Characteristics...







.


Ricochet August 24th, 2016 01:19

Last Sunday I was at one of the local fields and was engaged in a conversation with a gentleman about the merits of CO2 pistols. We were discussing the high velocity and he was talking about how his gun shot too hot for most fields and couldn't use it often. I asked him what the effective range of his gun was and he claimed about 60' of solid accuracy, though I've seen a bunch go more myself. I showed him my TM MK23, upgraded with a PDI barrel, new hop rubber and a small hop mod I did to help stability. All in it shoots around around 340 FPS on 0.20g or less. Firing it into the woods the BBs sailed nearly 200' accurately.

Zeroroaster August 24th, 2016 11:22

That whole FPS thing is misunderstood...much like horsepower. It's useless if you can't control it. An efficient and well managed 340 fps is certainly nothing to snort at. That said, for the firearms classification of 366fps or higher in this country, I try and keep my rifles around 370 with .2's (I only play on outdoor fields). I can keep the gun internals nice and loose which means they last forever. Concentrating on the air management and BB delivery I still get 85 yards+ out of my G36 (r hopped, etc,etc) and it runs all day on a 9.6V NiMh. I fire .3's out of it so the wind and foliage doesn't bother it so much.

As for a CO2 pistol, yeah my 1911 is a little hotter but still under 400 with .2's. 50 yards? No sweat with .3's. If it isn't shooting that far, it's broken. hehehe

Ricochet August 24th, 2016 12:59

The 366 FPS or more thing is strictly for import and has nothing to do with ownership. In order for legal ownership it just has to be able to cause serious bodily harm, such as taking an eye out, which I can do at 200 FPS with a point blank shot.

Out here many fields have a limit of 400 FPS, with a DMR limit of 450 and a sniper limit of 500. My primary is shooting around 390 with 0.20g and I run it on 0.28g or 0.30g. What drives me nuts is almost every DMR gun (401-450) doesn't shoot as far, as consistently, or efficiently as mine, just hotter and more dangerous.

ThunderCactus August 24th, 2016 13:21

Anyway, I'm running a marui M&P, shoots like a laser to 200ft out of the box with .25s

Plastic slides are GREAT for gas efficiency. More so when you pair them with a lightweight blowback unit. It also means they'll run to colder temps than pistols with metal slides.
Durability wise, plastic is most often fine. Just stay away from the 5-7.

Hicapas are great due to the incredible amount of aftermarket support for them. But the 226s and M&Ps are also great marui pistols. Well worth the cost.

WildBill357 September 12th, 2016 03:39

so it sounds like if i want a quality pistol from TM that will consistently pick off cans from 200 feet out without having to do any initial mods, upgrades or other work to it, then the TM M&P is a good choice for something with 200feet of accuracy, straight out of the box.

But if I dont mind spending the side money on higher quality parts (barrel or slider or something), and then if trust my ability to assemble it all correctly without damaging anything (which i dont think should be an issue, but i have never done it before haha) then i should look more at an upgradable Hi-cappa option if i really want that 300 foot accuracy?

Ricochet September 12th, 2016 08:02

With a pistol it's realistic to hit a target accurately at 100' (man sized target), but getting a BB out to 200' is a little more difficult, but certainly not impossible. I've had TMs that can do it and some that can't. All around they are reliable and reasonably accurate out of the box, except the FM 5/7, which doesn't like to cycle properly in cold, or hot, or days ending with 'Y'.

You can increase your velocity a little with a tightbore, which is pretty easy to install, and you consistency with an upgraded rubber and modding the hop arm to apply even pressure. These changes are not typically necessary to have the pistol run well, but there's always things you can do to any airsoft gun to up performance. Continually modding or upgrading an airsoft gun isn't really strange, neither is getting it to where you're happy and leaving alone at the 'good enough' level, depending on your tech'ing skill and cash flow.

Most TM pistols shouldn't require anything to run well, but there's always upgrades if you want to go that route.

shelcoof September 12th, 2016 08:04

Accuracy is totally dependent on the quality of the hop up rubber and inner barrel.
Reliability is depend on the design and construction of the gun.

When picking out a side arm look for specific gun reviews instead of brands. TM makes a lot of great pistols but at the same time they have made some poor pistols as well....

My pistols in my collection shoot straight like an arrow... performs almost as well as my R-Hopped AEGs. The only difference is distance due to the lower FPS.

Most TM and TM clones have pretty much the same hop up rubber and barrels. Pretty much accuracy isn't going to differ much between all the different guns available.

However design of the gun is what really differentiates between a good performing gun to a reliable performing gun.

Also take into consideration after market support. All guns break and if you can't find replacement parts your pretty much screwed.

Anyways something to think about before dropping 300$ plus on a Side Arm :)

ThunderCactus September 12th, 2016 12:41

My old ass KSC USP compact (pre-system 7) was a sniper rifle at 160ft. Had something ridiculous like a 2" grouping, and it was all stock.
Pistols with good hop rubbers can be VERY accurate, what's NOT accurate is you lol

Anyway, the 300ft range for a pistol is more about muzzle energy than anything else.
A tightbore will get you another 10-15fps, but ultimately you really need another 80.
This is the only time I'll say it, but you'll actually need a longer barrel.
It won't affect accuracy for better or worse, but you need the extra barrel length just to accelerate that BB more.
Something like a 160mm 6.01, using .32s, and either a good damn soft hop rubber or an Rhop.

But either way, 300ft shots with a pistol (If the pistol is even capable of that range) is pretty damn hard to do even when it's braced. It's hard enough to do with a full length rifle, prone, with a bipod.
200ft is far enough, I don't know under what circumstance you'd ever have to make a 300ft shot with a pistol.
If you run out of ammo on your primary, you have time to reload.
If your primary is down, you won't want to be wasting pistol ammo liberally trying to engage people that far out.
If your pistol is your primary and you're trying to use it like a sniper rifle, then you should take a long hard look at the weapon you've chosen for that role lol

mikebarkski November 21st, 2016 18:19

I have a brand new hi-capa 5.1 and every couple shots (quite often) it spits out the next round or it rolls out rather then goin into the chamber.....is there a fix to this?
and is there a proper way to remove a round from the chamber if your done firing?

Ricochet November 21st, 2016 20:47

Make sure your mags are properly filled. Also you may have your hop on too much. Try backing it off and then slowly reapplying to find the sweet spot. If the issue persists contact the retailer you got it from. A new hi-cappa should be problem free.

On that note; what type of BBs are you using, brand, weight, etc?

mikebarkski November 21st, 2016 21:21

i was actually still using the BBs that cam with the TM...but usually use .25s (i think they are krytak and elite force have a bottle of .28 if i wanna go up)
i will try the hop up advise

Ricochet November 21st, 2016 22:00

Those BBs should run just fine through that gun. Hopefully your gun isn't a lemon. That's happened to me before.

SuperCriollo November 22nd, 2016 07:23

Adjust you hop up. If no hop up is being applied, bbs will roll out of your barrel. That's the case with most guns I've handled, including GBBRs, GBBPs and AEGs. You can always try to rack the slide, and gently shake the gun to get that bb out. If that fails, use your cleaning rod.

vondnik November 22nd, 2016 11:06

my tm 5.1 was bought in 2004 when they came out.. no upgrades what so ever except the piston seal(the initial one would flip backwards and leak the whole mag down the barrel).. still runs the plastic slide, always ran on propane.. still works.... ok the slide lock is LOOOMMMGGGG gone but the gun still to this day performs like the day I took it out of the box...

mikebarkski November 22nd, 2016 13:33

thats good to hear that you still run your stock 5.1 just like you did when it came out..
sometimes to clear chambers i take out the mag and blow lightly into the barrel (is that bad for it?) then when i pull the slide back it spits out the handle..

mikebarkski November 26th, 2016 19:33

Thank you for all the help i think it was the hop up, that got it going. This seems to be a pretty reliable side arm...i think im going to try and find a mag pouch and 3 more spares, i have come to find that i dont like dealing with gas guns, but this one is consistent for me, and i love that i get 60+ shots on one fill with these mags


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