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Hicapa slide not returning forward
My Hicapa 5.1 is having issues. Gun was sold to me as a TM and I believe it is. It has a steel outer barrel, heavy metal slide, metal frame and metal recoil guide rod. It also has an upgraded recoil spring and a brand new WE hopup (it is missing that little black plastic square though).
So I got all my replacement parts, rebuilt my mags and went to test fire my hicapa. First shot was amazing. That is when shit failed on me. The gun dumped the entire mag of gas on the followup shot and the slide only went back a few CM. So I unloaded the gun and racked the slide several times to try and find the issue. As long as I held the slide while racking it everything worked. But when I pulled the slide fully back and released it, it would not go fully forward. The slide sits about 2-3 centimeters from being in the proper position. It is such a small distance that I could potentially fire the gun again from the position. But the slide is next to impossible to draw back. I have to lightly tap or push the outer barrel for the slide to travel forward all the way. Obviously I don't have xray vision so I can't see what is going on inside the gun. However it seems to me like the outbarrel is slipping off the recoil guide rod and jamming the slide. I only assume this because I am pushing on the outer barrel. Any advise or suggestions on how to fix this would be amazing. |
The parts are catching each other, it's because you have a mix of different brands. It normally happens when the gun has WE parts.
The barrel getting caught on the slide is what it sounds like you are having. Make sure you have the black plastic square back in place for the hop-up, as upon cycling the inner barrel and hop-up assembly might slide out and get caught causing jamming once again. |
Depends on how far down you stripped your capa.
Try loosening the grip screws and if necessary adjust the cant, this will be a millimeter or so of a fix, don't screw in the grips super tight either Otherwise pics help |
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I lost that tiny plastic piece like 2 years ago. My old hopup got royally fucked up, but I can try using that one again.
@ Sequential I was told that tiny black piece isn't really needed. @ Jamuke I am going to try my old hopup unit, if that still causes the jamming I will try adjusting the cant. I don't remember how far I previously stripped it down, I just remember having a nightmare of a time getting it back together and then I lost my hopup screws and shelved the project (that was like 3 years ago). |
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With TM, it is not there but installing a TM hop-up unit with a metal outer barrel is painful as it is a very TIGHT fit. So tight that the TM hop-up unit won't slide out of the outer barrel easy. If you ever need help with the Hi-Capa disassembly, refer back to Illusion's disassembly/reassembly video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rWFw3Iusncs |
I hear you Sequential,
Though I have experience that differs from that opinion. |
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The small internals for the hammer assembly, if arranged properly and well lubricated should not jam up upon tightening down that part of the gun. The hammer/valve knocker assembly parts should be carefully inspected. Make sure the disconnecter parts can be pushed down a little bit without force. If its jamming, disassemble the assembly and ensure each part is positioned properly. The small spring in the disconnecter set could have been dislodged. The main culprit causes cycling issues and the slide jamming half way is normally the front end of the gun. Something to do with the barrel, slide, hop-up and spring guide/bushing. The barrel in a WE is oversized, so it will not cycle properly with a stock TM plastic slide. Along with the spring guide and spring bushing. If your blowback unit is having issues like a sticky nozzle then a full disassembly should be done on the rear end of the gun. The blowback unit screw for the piston head could have came loose over time from blowback shock. Hence why its always good to use a small application of blue thread locker on each screw for a handgun. Hope this helps... Quote:
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Where can I find that tiny black piece and the screw that it needs.
I figured my hopup would come complete with everything I need but I was wrong apparently. |
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Maybe fabricate one? Or find a TM one? |
I tried fabricating the part out of machine screws and a washer, but that failed miserably. I can't seem to find anything that works for such a small component.
Any suggestions are appreciated (I would honestly buy that plastic piece and the screw for it in a heartbeat but I can't find it). |
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Your new WE hop-up is just as bad isn't... Yeah that little black thing, if someone would let me burrow one I could model it up on a 3d printer and print one for you. How much would you pay for that little thing? I can see if I can have it made on a 3d printer... |
It is a tiny part but i would pay 10 bucks. But unless i can find a screw for it it is useless.
And yeah the hopup has the sheared screw lol. The new hopup is great. But that piece is missing from it too. |
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I think I might have a We hopup chamber in a part gun I got with this piece Not sure the hopup unit itself is any good but I'll check when I have some time to seen if it has this plastic part and screw You can PM me for details |
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:D |
Yeah.. Sometimes whenever I'm just lazy I end up buying these to replace the majority of my screws
http://www8.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main...em=NB-PT-HCTSS It's rarely in stock anymore, I don't even know if it's in production anymore since they're all sold out in practically every place I go to. But it saved me a lot of time browsing through every store in HK to find replacement screws. Some shops such as Tokyo Model tends to stock spare parts, if you go to any Airsoft dedicated shop looking for "screws" you'll probably get a reply like they only stock grip screws. Anyone here knows any shops in particular that stock a range of screws that include those necessary for a hi-capa? |
Also to fix your slide cycling problem, upgrade your recoil spring if you haven't already, I found that AIP recoil springs tends to be a bit... "Off" at times so I definitely don't recommend them. If there's a huge 2cm to 3cm difference that would probably be the cause, If it's a 2mm-3mm difference but u can still shoot it however it ejects all the gas out of your mag manually cycle your slide a couple hundred times. The parts brushing between each other causing the difference, will wear off, and you should be able to shoot fine afterwards.
If you could provide pictures of the parts in your gun, we may be able to identify them. |
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I've been using the factory Marui screws for years now and they don't strip! As long as you hand tighten them down and apply a small dab of threadlock. WE screws are trash, they are so poor quality they make Marui pot metal screws look good. The problem is also user error, some people are using the wrong tools for the job. Handguns can't be over torqued otherwise you will strip things left and right. Quote:
For plastic slide and original parts, a Marui recoil spring would be best. |
Not sure if solved or not but... if the slide is getting stuck on the return stroke, and pushing the outer barrel back unjams it, then the problem is with the barrel not tilting back enough when the slide recoils. On the Hi capa the slide and barrel move together for about 2 mm. When the slide moves, but the barrel doesnt, it causes a jam. The barrel is effectively wedged between the slide, and the hop up unit.
Illusion has a hi capa thread with much more detail than I could write. His solution is to buy a fixed outer barrel. A work around is to replace the outer barrel, or gently polish the faux locking lugs in the slide. |
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EDIT: You lucky bastard. Free shipping on this part too. http://airsoft.tiger111hk.com/Airsof...duct_info.html |
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