becoming wetarded
 

Okay so me thinks ima finally jump on the GBBR wagon seeing as its getting warmer out and whatnot.
So what all do i need. I was hoping to get a 416 but ill likely go withthe cqbr and add a silencer to hide a longer barrel down the road.
So i know i should get an npas but can i get away without it for now untill it starts getting warmer? (reason is id rather just buy the ratech aluminium nozzle and steel bolt with the npas on it alrdy but wont have the cash right away to grab it after gettin the rifle and 10 mags or so)
So will i be able to stay around 400 (or less as it says 370fps) in moderate tempratures?
And what else do i need? A hop up rubber i spose? Do i need a whole hop unit or just the rubber?.
All those steel parts (sears and other trigger bits and such) are those needed out of the box or just run it till something breaks?
Thanks for the info.

Get the NPAS, so you will be able to field your gun in THIS weather. It won't work with the steel bolt until it's 20+ outside.

Then get a second steel bolt if you want.

The steel trigger parts are not needed on the stock bolt setup, and are prone to additional issues/problems (you have to custom-fit every part to make sure it works. I have a set and didn't install because of that... was waiting for the stock parts to break. Still waiting...)

Hop-up is not bad stock, but anything is an improvement really. Same for tightbore.

+1 that

Get an NPAS and worry about other stuff when it happens. If/when it breaks change it, but it probably won't break early on and runs perfectly fine on stock parts + NPAS.

The NPAS also helps reliability all around, I found. While it may seem counter-intuitive at first glance, LOWERING your FPS via NPAS in cooler weather helps the gun cycle reliably (more gas is channeled to the action). Sure it won't shoot as hard but if you have to pick between a gun shooting 330 that won't cycle properly and one that shoots 290 but cycles properly.... well, I know which one I'd pick.

So itll be hot even in 5-10 degrees? So what is the fps if its not 370ish like stated on TA? Especially the cqbr with its short ass barrel. I mean i can run prolly up to 410 or so without the hosts around me giving me a hard time (i run 500 fps bolt actions safely all the time so i wouldnt be unsafe a lil hot on a regular rifle)
Edit. Also those "magic pins" does the body wobble that bad that i need those right away?

So the steel bolt is that heavy eh? Mostly adds to recoil i guess? Ill likely just add the aluminium nozzle then seein as the bolt will just make it a gas hog lol.
As for adons all the rails and stocks and grips are real steel spec or are they we specific?

Looks better with a short barrel, in my opinion. Here is mine, all stock internals minus the 6.01mm Ra-Tech tightbore and King Arms hopup. The cocking handle breaks pretty fast because it's made of pot metal. Broke for me after 500 rnds or so, but I knew it was going to happen so I had it on hand. Reading around ASC you'll find handy little tips like these. I'm still a n00b with my GBBR, so I can't tell you much aside from firsthand experience or reading stuff on the net.

Turok seems to be an expert at these things and I've read a lot of his guides, so maybe do a quick search and see what you can find. Hope that helps =]

EDIT: To haters: No, there is no backup sight, deal with it ;)

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3.../IMG_16411.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3.../IMG_16381.jpg

Gen 2 open bolt mags!

Mmmmm 416 goodness lol wish TA had em in stock

I used to have one of these. Great looking gun and it worked like a charm! The only problem I had was when I tried Installing a tight bore RATECH inner barrel.The bb's would feed. perhaps I got a bad barrel. If your looking for one, I saw one in the classifieds for 380 with Npas installed.

I am bringing my WE 416 - look me up when you get there, I'll let you shoot it at the range

Sweet thanks
Hoping ill have mine by then

IMO...one of the biggest up-sell points about WE is that it's a modular system...and stock replacement parts are cheap.

That second part is negated with really expensive, slightly out of spec "upgrade" parts. Most of which, IMO, are not needed.

#1 rule for me with a new WE...if it shoots reliably, don't mess with it too much. Modding is modding though...so if you need to make a build, then you take the good with the bad.

NPAS...sure. However, these things like to run wide open (like all gas systems do) so when you choke it down you get so-so performance/reliability out of it. But we have to work within field limits so that's the nature of the beast.

For me....the only other thing I'll replace is MAYBE change the hopup rubber. The stock one is a little too soft/spongy and these things benefit from a harder rubber with a flatter/wider bump.

Tightbores...meh, not needed for most of the shooting we do with them.

I will do the following though after a build or with a new rifle....
1. cycle the gun (with and without BBs) for several hundred shots in a controlled environment (i.e. my workshop or basement).
2. go over the whole thing looking for loose screws, binding, excessive wear points, etc...
3. I'll take the hopup out and teflon tape the hopup rubber. Helps with air leaks and it firms up the inner barrel in the hopup or else it wobbles (huge affect on accuracy).
4. I'll shim the inner in the outer to center it (huge improvement in accuracy)

Then I'll just run the gun mag after mag until I get bored. If the trigger break gets really bad (it's a mushy-ish break to start with) I might take the trigger group out to look for excessive premature wear.

If the consistency of the shots is still not there after some field use I'll swap the hopup rubber.

For gaming...if the WE is my primary rifle I'll pack a spare bolt from another build. Aside from the trigger group or receiver catastrophically failing...the most likely dead-gun cause in the field is a broken nozzle. You can change them out in the field...but it's a PITA with little pins/springs. A spare bolt/nozzle swap is super quick and easy.

Re. the magic pins/etc...here's my take. These things are not made with the best quality materials. Nor are they held to exacting tolerances. And...for the material quality that they are made of...they operate under quite a bit of force/duress. So...a little bit of slop isn't a bad thing if it keeps the system from self destructing.

My last build is looking pretty good and spitting out pretty tight groups. But there's still flyers. I think that just because of the nature of them they'll never be the "super DMR l33t sniper laser beam" rifle that some guys are expecting. They're still fine for field/CQB use and the fun factor is there...so in the end it's about setting expectations fairly.

Alrighty so npas hop rubber and a lil tweaking (shim the inner and such) and it may be close in accuracy and range to a stockish aeg i guess?
Yeah itll be mostly for the fun/realism factor. I mostly run my bolt action and will sometimes swap to an aeg for a cpl hours so itll take the place of said aeg for the once in a while i feel like running assult.
Any psticular hop rubber you suggest Tys?
Are you using orings or something as spacers to shim the inner to the outer?
Thanks!
(look at that i gave ya paragraphs and everything lol)

LOL...now to work on punctuation :)

For shimming the inner barrel I used to use a little rubber oring. Then I ran out of them so I just use tape...either teflon tape or thin packing tape (the space between the inner and outer is pretty tight)

For the hopup rubbers I think the last one I put in was an A+ Studio rubber (I thought they were called MORE rubbers but maybe that was just one of their product lines).

Ratech came out with a clear or blue one too...I haven't tried that.

Ask Jugglez at airsoftparts.ca...he's my go-to guy.

Mine too lol. Told him he should just rent me a room and save me from drivin back n forth all the time.
Thanks again!

+1 for NPAS
Have it attached to my WE M4 and KWA MP7 and it works like a charm.

Okay so in my quest to become a wetard i think i have a list
NPAS
Tight bore (havent picked one yet)
Hop rubber (also havent picked one yet)
If i can find one spare nozzle but ill likely just wait till the stock one breaks then swap in the ratech aluminium one.
Now for some new questions.
Co2 or propane?
I know co2 should be more consistant and work in colder temps and such but is it alot harder on internals or about the same at a given fps?
Are the mags better or worse then the green gas mags as car as leaking and durability?

CO2 are actullay WORST in consistency, and cost a lot more to run.

I sold all mine and replaced with V2 GG ones and I play in winter.

Really, wow that is unexpected due to the nature of co2 vs propane. Good to know GG mags it is lol

Just an aside, Drake has had the opposite experience of Kos Mos. He has both propane and c02 mags, and swears by the c02 ones. But... in my experience I love the V2 gas mags and would also suggest them.

Tom

I would not get the ratech aluminum nozzle fr 2 reasons:

1. The built in npas is very inconsistent resulting in fluctuating fps and may affect accuracy. (I personally haven't had time yet to devise a mod to use he old npas in the aluminum nozzle)

2. I've heard of people running aluminum nozzles ans smashing their hop up chambers into pancakes. I'm sure there is a way to cushion the impact from the bolt/nozzle slamming forward.

For hop up, I would recommend A+ studio

I've gotten extremely good results out of the Angry Gun 380mm 6.03mm barrel for the G39, but I have a 16 inch barrel. Your best bet, if you REALLY want something nice, is a VSR barrel (PDI or EDGI), but that requires slight modification to your hopup chamber and you may have to cut down a barrel or two.

I use a Modify rubber in my rifle, and right now I can shoot out to 60 feet at 7.5 MOA under perfect conditions. Nowhere near what a bolt action can do, but good enough considering the advantages of a GBBR. Shimming the inner inside of the outer is the best thing for accuracy I've done so far.

Rarely ever needed to change out a nozzle. If anything I've learned two things: Don't ride the charging handle, and never Tap Rack Bang- Always run a Double Feed Drill if your rifle stops firing.

The Generation 2s are amazing in terms of durability. I was at UA, magazine ran empty in a very bad situation. Dropped it four feet onto concrete while reloading. Picked it up, it's a little dinged up, but still running like a champ.

I'm pretty sure my rifle is 80% RS at the moment... that's preference though. Run it, see what makes you happy, and go from there. The only thing I suggest is you shim the bolt catch and purchase a RS magazine detent ($3), that will remove any bolt locking problems you'll ever have. The FA doesn't work all the time, the RS one does. You don't need an FA on this rifle though... then again it did come in useful when I rode the handle forward on a very, very dirty and dry gun. Turns out that, and the steel bolt's lack of proper dimensioning were causing the Bolt Carrier not to seat fully, resulting in me venting a magazine when I fired it.

What's the right method of using teflon tape ? I saw people putting teflon tape on the inner, and then the hop up rubber over it, and others simply wrap the teflon tape over both the inner barrel and the hop up rubber.

I'm at the point of reassembling a friend's WE M4 and i'll probably use teflon on his and mine.

I put some over both, as the rubber is a better seal than teflon for pneumatic.

Since we're on the topic of WE, I have a WE M4A1 that I turned into a C8, she's still closed bolt. Is it worth it to convert over to open bolt, and if so, what do I need and what am I looking at cost wise?

Personally I find OB is the shit, so I'd say yes, worth it.

~$100 for the conversion kit (bolt carrier group, hopup unit, inner barrel, bolt catch), plus you'll need to convert your mags or get new ones too (about $5 each to convert). You'll also need a new NPAS, and I recommend a heavier buffer.

See if you can find someone with an open bolt you can take a few shots with and compare.

Out of sheer curiosity, do heavy recoil kits such as the Angry Gun kit affect durability of the components? Does the increased stress from a heavier spring possibly cause buffer tubes to tear apart or receivers to crack?

The Angry Gun kit has a much heavier buffer: 205 grams compared to the stock 41g. I think it also has a much stiffer recoil spring. It is said to increase wear on internal parts and I don't doubt that; 200 grams is heavier than many real steel buffers.

I use a 5KU buffer (57g) in one M4 and a TSC (69g) in my CQB gun, both with the stock recoil spring. If there's any increase in wear I'd say it's negligible, and it may even decrease it as there's more inertia and you can feel a slightly heavier "bump" but it's not as sharp as with the stock buffer.

I think Mach1airsoft has them in stock.

I run a stock RS carbine buffer (113 grams) with the stock recoil spring. I've got a thousand rounds through it, no issue or excess wear. My concern is for the receiver potentially cracking near the rear buffer, but so far I've seen no obvious signs of damage or cracking or deformation.

I wouldn't use it, it may cause severe premature wear on your trigger system especially if they are not steel. The best combination I found is the stock spring and a RS buffer which is more than enough. To be honest, increased recoil can also be produced if you have a good seal between the nozzle and mag gas lip. I modded my nozzle to increase the seal and I noticed significant increase in recoil. There are many other seals that can be improved in order to increase gas efficiency

Okay so i should be getting my WE416 in a few days.
Gonna ad an a plus hop rubber and figure out what length of tightbore to put in it (gonna go a lil longer then stock and hide it with a silencer)
Going to get a spare nozzle and an npas once i get it ima likely just get a seccond npas to put in the spare nozle for easy swaps if it breaks during a game.
Now for my question. Is madbull gear grease with teflon and acceptable lube to use on the trigger and other moving parts?

As long as Madbull gear grease does not contain Petroleum Distillates it should be good.

I use white lithium grease on my WE M4's moving parts, just avoid the O-rings. I bought it from Canadian Tire.

The way the trigger mech is contained there's very little chance grease is going to migrate from there to anywhere with a rubber bit.

And the external bits of the bolt don't interact with the nozzle at all.

So...you shouldn't have any problems.

If you pull the nozzle forward enough you'll see the oring on the end. It's essentially the piston...and the interior of the bolt is the cylinder. As long as you keep that lubed with rubber friendly lube you're good to go.

Personally....I just use ultralube/whatever-brand of clear gel PTFE lubricant that I use for everything. A couple of drops of heavier weight silicone oil doesn't hurt either.

Yea i have "sticky g" that comes with the AI gun gas kit to use on the oring.
The gear grease i have is basically like what you discribed Tys. It a clear silicone grease with teflon (its thick but not super thick it spreads nicely)
Installing the npas am i gonna need any special tools (to tap or anything) ir it just drops right into the nozzle after i dissasemble it?

A small punch to tap out the pin that holds the 2 halves of the nozzle together, I used a paper clip to get it out. But other than that it drops right in. Don't forget to reuse the spring that comes off of the valve on the inside.

Sweet. Yeah i have all the baisic tools from aeg and gbbp maintenance just read that "some modification" is required but that seems easy enough lol

The cross pin that holds the two halves together is really small in diameter. It's important to drive it out cleanly (I use a broken drill bit and tap it out). You don't want to mangle the holes in the nozzle body...or break/snap/bend the cross pin.

You'll see it when you see it.

How did you mod the nozzle? I've done a search but can't really find any nozzle mods aside from a few for using a SCAR nozzle in a PDW.

Also, what other seals can/should be modded to improve efficiency?

Okay so inner barell, hop rubber, npas, spare nozzle.
Is there anything else im missin that is potentially gonna break on me thats prone to fail.
Part 66? 49? (i think those are the ones i hear talk of all the time)

Sorry if this is slightly derail, but do you know if this is due to the aluminum nozzle or if they are running a steel bolt which also pancakes the hopup chamber?

You won't find it bc I never posted it, nor have I heard anyone else perform th mod. What's did is increase the seal between he air nozzle and gas route on he magazine, ensuring that the nozzle conforms nicely with the gae route. I add an extra layer to the nozzle and remove it accordingly so it mates perfectly with the gas route in the magazine.

Other places of gas seals include:

-Nozzle tip with hop up chamber
-Nozzle rear/oring with bolt
-Hop up bucking with inner barrel


I think it's mainly due to the aluminum nozzle, but I'm sure the weight of a steel bolt may also have some effect. The reason y I don't prefer the aluminum nozzle is bc of the fluctuating fps. Ill find a way to use the original npas when i get time. However, I still aluminum nozzles in all my guns bc I don't use gas at all to fill up my mags when I play.

Holy f****n s**t!¡!¡!
 

Well airsoft just went from fun to totally fuckin awesome in about 2.3 secconds.
Oh GBBR where have you been all my life!?! LOL
Well happy to say I am officially a wetard.
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/a...502_170853.jpg
So now for a question. Single point sling attachment. What do i need a real steel one or something specific for a gbbr?
Also does anyone find their mags tear up bbs prety good? Will this go away afterawhile or should i take the sharp edge off the feed lips?

RS or GBBR-specific will usually run the same price, might as well get the real.

The lips will wear overtime, to the point where you will be able to load them with a speed-loader. I would say probably the first 10-15 loads will be harder to do.

You can use RS sling plates or if you don't mind a little file work you can use WA spec'd plates. I had to shave a bit off of the tang of my sling plate to get it to fit the WE reciever. The tang is what I am calling the circular lump of metal that fits into the reicever hole lol.

Oh and welcome to the cool kids club took you long enough lol

LOL thanks!
So i was wondering. The open bolt conversion kit kike this one http://www.airsoftparts.ca/store2/im...t-kit-full.jpg
Seems to have a bolt, nozzle, and the whole trigger and hammer assembly along with the hopup and inner barrel.
Looking at the price of the kit it seems like its about half the cost of buying all those parts on their own so considering the nozzle will likely need to be re0laced and at some point something in the trigger may break or wear out does it seem practical to just pick up one of these kits and then have all the parts on hand when something fails

I suppose I'm a little late, but I would have recommend going with an Inokatsu or Viper tech GBBR, they are irrefutibly better than WE. They do everything the WE's can do, except about a thousand times better, more recoil, more versatility, more reliability, and hell, even more FPS if you really want it...

It'd be nice to justify your claims there...

For one, all of their internals are made of high quality metals (not the cheap pot metal WE uses) so they have much fewer issues with breakage, you can increase the weight of the bolts extensively and increase gas flow even more, resulting in fantastic recoil, you also use Pro Win mags, which are much better than anything from WE (mine hold gas for several months at a time, and I rarely remember to lube them). If you want further proof, go to http://www.gasguns.info/forum/index.php Inokatsu and Viper tech GBBR's are king, I've owned WE's and they can't hold a candle to the utter stability and strength of my Inokatsu; forged aluminium receiver + all steel internals + 50 round magazines that never leak = goodbye WE.

Im not denyin the Ino's are better but for cost and availabity and 416 goodness i went with we. One day im sure ill get a FCC and an Ino but if yer buyin.... Lol jk.

@ hectic - the conversion kit is a good way to go to get a bunch of spare parts. I think it comes with some feed lips too...although I've never broken a v2 feedlip so far they're nice to have.

@ misomalu - the Ino's are very nice and when they work they're sweet...but I don't think any of these gas rifles are infallible. The cost of a real cap loadout of Prowin mags is heart stopping.

Even if the conversion kit includes a whole lot of spares, it's expensive for nothing if you don't have a second upper to use the bolt.

Spare nozzle is 20-25$
Spare lips are 5$

Trigger components are common to open and closed systems, except the bolt-return sear, which is 1mm shorter on open bolt. And people are liquidating closed-bolt parts, so a complete trigger will run you maybe 15$

The hop-up chamber and bolt are useful if you build a second upper, but the barrel and rubber are far from good. Better buy aftermarket ones instead for "spare"

Certainly not infallible, but much more reliable, and I picked up an Inokatsu 2010 for $500, because the trigger group and nozzle were sold for parts xD, and I currently run 9 mags, 5 ProWin, 4 WA, I think I spent a total of $300 is on the mags, you just gotta know where to look ;) For the entire cost of my Manga GBBR set up (G&P WOC and parts included), I have spent less money than I did trying to get POS WE's to work properly. I believe I was buying in the golden age of stock closed bolt rifles, version 1 & 2 open bolt kits, and version 1 M4 mags; I know WE has improved greatly since then, but after spending thousands of dollars an countless hours trying to get these god awful guns to work, I just can't get the sour taste out of my mouth.

Thousand of dollars to make them work ? Sucks to be you because my 3 WE's works perfectly with minor upgarde parts. It's funny how 90% of the WE users are satisfied with their rifles and aren't bragging all the time that their gun is broken, nor spent thousands on upgarde parts (thousands ... still laughing).

You can like the Inos better, fine for you, but don't whine and bitch about the WE ones here because you think having a Ino makes you better.

I think im going to sell a couple AEG's and become a WEtard this season. im tempted to get something a little different, i hear that their AK's are kinda shit. Since RA tech came out with parts are they alright now with those? also was looking at an SVD but also heard a few bad things about them. mainly being very inconsistent.

what do you guys think?

The only issue I heard so far with the AKs are the trigger boxes. Mine is upgraded with the RA-Tech Steel Trigger set. I bought the gun like that, so I can't really say if there's a huge difference or not.

Hephaestus steel trigger set and an FG airsoft recoil buffer are the only thing they really need. I wasn't impressed with my friend's WE SVD at all. Fired a full magazine before I realized the safety was still on... and clearly not working.

wow thats brutal. i had high hopes for the svd it looks so nice..
good to hear the upgrade parts help the ak. but their ak's are so... FUGLY. the only one that actually looks like it should is the 74un.

if they ever come out with a standard AK74 il get it.

That price includes the price of the rifles, which were exponentially more expensive when they first came to Canada, also, I stated that I was using earlier WE models (which were absolute garbage), and that I recognize that WE has improved. Also, where did I say that owning an Inokatsu makes me better? I said that Inokatsu makes a better rifle, but not that WE owners were somehow inferior.

Takes a bit of effort but you can build an AK74 out of a we AK PMC + the AKs74u. Then you can sell the spare parts as entire other gun.

http://i.imgur.com/znsRa.jpg

That's my WE.

OMG I love your Plum parts :D

Thanks! Latvian did all the installation work for me, he knows his stuff!

To be honest, I used to be a WE fan boy especially with their M4/M16 platform. However, after owning a Viper tech, it makes me want to get rid of all my WE gbbrs for the following reasons:

1. Recoil is much greater on the viper tech

2. No need for any internal upgrades, as all hammer/trigger components are all steel and look stunning. I hate upgrading to after market parts as it impacts the entire dynamics/function of the system.

3. The externals from the outer barrel to the receiver sets is stunning, no more pot metal shit. If you seen the finish and weight of a Vipertech outer barrel, it feels just like the RS counterpart

4. The sound acoustics, trigger pull, and weight of the recoil on my viper tech makes my RS WE build seem like a water gun.

5. Gas efficiency is much higher, is not affected as much by the cool down effect seen on the WE platform. I use all protein v2 mags.

6. No issues with hop up been finicky or bolt catch not catching. Viper tech works flawlessly out of the box. It is so much more reliable.

7. The price of vipertech is between $500 to $700usd. I picked up a used one for $300 cad. You don't need a $1k inokatso. You just need to know where to look. In fact, I prefer the vipertech over ino as they're much cheaper. Prowin mags work, g&p mags work, king arms mag works. No need to buy the more expensive prowin mags (although they are the best).

I know the WE system pretty well and haven't had major problems as a lot of people described. All my WE guns work perfectly so im not one of those unfortunate/complaining users who dont know how to operate a WE. But based on performance and reliability, I still have to go with vipertech.

If anyone is interested I can make a side by side comparison between the WE and the viper tech to show the differences. If i was to ver build an m4 gbbr, it would definitely be based on Vipertech platform, hands down. Once you feel and fire vipertech, you would never go back to WE, I guarantee you

Are there any actual Viper Tech retailers in Canada, because I have looked high and low, and cannot find one. Also, you managed to get a KA mag to hold gas and or operate a GBBR? I think that's some sort of record :lol:

Dont think there are any retailers, but im pushing for them to carry the Viper line :)

I look forward to that... I wanted a Viper back in '11, couldn't find one, so I ended up getting a WE instead.

Anyone know of a canadian retailer that has some we m4gbb gen2 propane mags at a reasonable price. I checked airsoftpsrts airsoftdepot torontosirsoft mach1 capital and i googled. Also asked Eyore. Seems i found one place that has some. Doesnt say if they are v1 or v2 and they want 49.99 plus tax (lil steep if ya ask me)

m4 mags
 

It seems those gen2 mags are hard to find everywhere >____>

Seems your best bet is oversea stores, like UN Company, Ehobby etc

airsoftparts.ca gets some periodically... usually 100 at a time and a month apart.

Yeah Jugglez says a cpl weeks. Found some to hold me off till then

I used to get my WE mags from Tokyo model, they were substantially less expensive than Canadian retailers, also check out ehobbyasia, they have pretty good service, and decent rates.

TBD Airsoft probably has the mags you seek. I don't believe they're listed on the website though, so send them an email.

Thanks all for the replies for mags.
New questions.
Hop rubber.
I have 3 options.
Modify Accurate rubber (for vsr and tm gbb) its the tan one.
The new version of the ratech one (i think its blue or black not the clear one)
Or the aplus 60degree one (i think it may be a lil on the soft side as im told these like a harder rubber)
So what would be my best choice on a 400 fps setup.
Next is inner barrel. Angry gun 6.03. Ra tech 6.01 (i run 6.01 on my vsr but have had issues running em on aegs) or im told with some modding of the hop up one can run vsr barrels. (what mod is needed. Could i mod the barrel jnsted of the hop unit?) ive modded tm barrels to fit kj pistols (had to ad sn extra set of notches to the barrel would rather mod the barrel the the hop unit.

if i was looking for a good store or site to source all the parts to build a second complete upper assembly for cqb, where would i go? Most places im seeing dont cater to the gbbr market at all

I can get Gen 2 WE mags.


Also I suggest a 6.03 barrel as opposed to the 6.01 one. The gun does not fire well at all on auto with the 6.01 inner.

Thanks Eeyore. I got 5 commin from HK (a member here just happened to be there lol) on friday so i can play saturday with my new toy.
I went with the modify rubber as i liked it in my VSR back befor i went laylax.
And i had a stock TM vsr 430mm inner (i think its aluminium either way im surd its better then the stock WE inner) it was s simple mod the existing slots needed to be widened a bit and it needed 2 additional slots made a lil further from the end to accomodate the seccond set of "bumps" in the hop up unit. Seems to fit nice now. I find the nozzle sticks in the hop up a bit now so the seal is really good with the modify rubber.
Had to head out so ill test fire tommorow. Hopefully it works cause the threadz on the front of the reciver (the front 2 threads) wer stripped a bit the first time i removed the outter so i dont wanna open it again it was a pain lol.
Anyone else had the stripped right outta the box issue?
Anyone got a line on se 416 uppers?

Ehobbyasia is good for that, however, it's much harder to build a WE from the ground up, as there is a very limited number of parts available for them, goo luck!

Airsoftglobal is my favourite place for WE bits. They have an excellent selection, included upper receivers with rails or integrated carry handles.

Well, you must not be living on the same planet as I am.

2 minutes of google-fu and a bit of searching gets you upper receivers, bolt assemblies, outer barrels and front ends galore.

What about a 416 upper? If you find that (just a stock replacement one) then your google fu is stronger then mine lol

Ask and you shall receive: http://www.airsoft-entrepot.fr/upper...16-39.z.fr.htm

Or this: http://www.airsoft-developpement.com...022-black.html

Or maybe this is more to your liking: http://www.blowbackarmory.net/produc...68upperkit.htm

Nice!
Now if WE doesnt help me i have a source or three lol.
Anyone ever deal with WEtech?
The threads on my upper wer stripped right outta the box. I was able to get it apart and back together to swap the rubber and inner but im sure i wont be able to do it too many more times without it becoming totally fubar. I sent them an email via their contact form hopefully they will ask for proof its new snd either give me an upper cheap or free. But im not holding my breath lol.

I'm not even sure if WE responds to emails. (I'm still awaiting a responce from 2 years ago) Your best bet is going through a distributor to get parts.

Back in February I had emailed WE inquiring about getting a replacement part for a pistol. They did actually reply to say that they were wholesale inquiry only, but they did tell me the following.

"For individual purchase of original WE products, spare parts & special
items, please try contacting info@airsoft123.com (www.airsoft123.com is
one of our trusted official dealers). They can special-order WE products
& replacement parts for you with quick turnaround time."

has anyone tried the i-hop on there we guns?
ra-tech is selling this for the we gbb
http://en.ratech.com.tw/english/inde...=27&Itemid=119

does anyone find the 6.03 barrel more accurate than the ra tech 6.01?

I think we all know who the WE distributor is in Canada :) If anyone needs spare WE M4/M16, PDW, SCAR, 416 parts, please PM me... You will be surprised what I have for you... Im sure many users who have contacted me for parts can attest to this :)

To be honest...the stock barrel is decent enough for most ranges. I'd err on the side of a 6.04/6.03 vs. a 6.01.

Aside from junk that will come in via the mag an AEG is pretty much a closed-dry system. Crap can come into a GBBR via the mag too...but also the feed lips are pretty hard/sharp and can nick BBs, open bolts are...open to whatever, and the temperature changes from the gas can cause condensation on the inner barrel.

In a clean shoot-in-your-basement type setup there's probably no issue...but in field games where you're mucking about and it always seems to rain too tight of a bore will just increase the risk of jams.

Stripped npas?
I think either my npas or ghe tool is stripped.
If i try and adjust it the tool seems to slip but if i put the tool on an allen key it doesnt slip. So is the npas itself stripped?
Anyone had this issue befor?

Thanks guys! Ill look into these