Powerful LiPos I Have Known and Loved
 

Those of you who know me or follow my AEG-related posts on this forum know that I'm a big fan of three things: neo motors, MOSFETs, and LiPos. In my never-ending quest for snappier triggers, pulling strong springs in under-volumed cylinders, cold-weather durability, and high rates of fire, I think it's about time I asked the other guys here what they're using and shared what I was using.

I'd like to start a thread where we share what LiPos we are using and what we're doing to bring those LiPos under control (i.e MOSFETs).

I've tried a whole bunch of random LiPos out there, including G&P's small sticks, a tiny 650mAh Rhino, as well as Turnigy's other selection of smaller (1000-1200mAh) LiPos, but most of those have proven to be inadequate for the abuse I've been putting my guns through, therefore I've usually gravitated for the largest and highest-discharge (C value) LiPos I could fit in every given battery compartment I have in my collection of AEGs.

Here's what I've got on active duty in my "LIPO SAFE" bag at the moment.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1149620/airs...notech1300.jpg

Turnigy nano-tech 1300mAh 11.1V 25-50C. 32.5 Amps -> 65 Amps peak.

I originally got this battery to cram into a Madbull ACE stock. This is a solid battery and the one that I've done more cold-weather testing on than any other battery. This battery managed to run in my Raptor setup for an entire day at -12C. Not bad for only 1300mAh, at 390fps. This is a great choice for people running longer-size buffer tubes, and perhaps AKs (though I haven't tried it in an AK), because you get a battery that is capable of 25C yet extremely compact.



http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1149620/airs...es/tgy1600.jpg

Turnigy 1600mAh 11.1V 20-30C. 32 Amps -> 48 Amps peak.

This is a battery I had hoped I could stuff into a MOE handguard with a bit of work. I wasn't able to accomplish that, but it does fit nicely in the HK416 stubby full buttstock I have on my Diablo, and fits in an external battery pouch I have on my KAC PDW. Great battery, but only truly useful for folks who are have rather large battery compartments. Haven't tested it in cold weather.



http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1149620/airs...notech2250.jpg

Turnigy 2250mAh 7.4V 65-130C. 146.25 Amps -> 292.5 Amps peak

Yeah, you read that right, 292.5 Amps. To my knowledge, this is the largest and most powerful battery you can fit in a Magpul MOE handguard (it also fits very comfortably in a full buttstock). If you have one of those, you owe it to yourself to get this battery and be astonished at the ridiculous workloads you can handle all day long while others around you run out of juice left and right. This is the LiPo pack that made me start noticing the reduction in heat when running very fat, high-C LiPos with neo motors. Simply put, this pack is a monster.



http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1149620/airs.../zippy6000.jpg

Zippy Flightmax 6000mAh 7.4V 35-45C. 210 Amps -> 270 Amps peak

This is the newest addition to my selection of batteries, and is the absolute largest LiPo I could find that can be stuffed into the HK416 stubby buttstock (and I do mean stuffed -- you literally have to jam it into the stock. The hard case helps make that a safe thing to do). To those of you who look at batteries by their C ratings, 35C might not sound like much, but at 6000mAh, that's 210A, (i.e. 6A * 35C), so this battery is prepared to drive pretty much, much further any airsoft spring you could ever hope to throw at it. With the hard case designed for R/C airplanes, the pack is rather massive (138 x 46 x 25 mm, weighing in at 313g or 11oz), but the upside is that it will likely survive any hard falls or impacts that may come along. It does require some rewiring and soldering to reconfigure for an AEG's crawlspace, so be prepared to accidentally melt some plastic if you're going for the narrowest wiring setup possible like I did. This is the battery I hope to run this winter in cold weather, so I hope to report back on how it does some time in February. Stay tuned.



http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1149620/airs...eries/swsf.jpg

Extreme-Fire SW-SF MOSFET

Delivering power from these batteries to my AEGs motors is done mostly by a fleet of Extreme-Fire SW-SF MOSFETs. The SW-SF is really a superb option for anyone looking to run high-powered springs with large LiPos, because it can comfortably fit in pretty much every AEG out there, from buffer tubes to the fuse nook in a CYMA MP5K. The crazy thing is that these are only 35 bucks, and can handle 14.8V LiPos without breaking a sweat. A fuse is built in.

I also have a pair of AWS Raptors in two of my AEGs which are similar in their abilities as the SW-SF, but are far more expensive and surprisingly delicate and prone to disasters. I can't really recommend the Raptor to anyone who is looking for a rugged and dependable AEG. Even though the programmability is really awesome, my personal pick has to go to the Extreme-Fire MOSFETs.

What are you all running?

Vote for sticky

where did you pick up the mosfet?

Right here. Terry Fritz (Gandolf on Airsoft Mechanics) makes them for you on-demand. You can even request special features or specs. Real nice guy, and stands behind his product.

http://extreme-fire.com/2011-SW-SF.html

http://extreme-fire.com/

I'm running a zippy rhino 4900mah 20C in my 249, controlling motor speed with a custom built triggermaster by DonP
Nanotech 20C 1800mah in my PTW, which is yet to be checked for efficiency since I've got a motor height issue
Used to run those 7.4v 1600mah 15/20C turnigy batts in my old M4. Ran great except I wouldn't recommend any 7.4v batts for use with an SW-COMP that shuts off at 7.2v lol
The $9/batt price was pretty nice though!
Currently looking for something a wee bit bigger to cram in my PTW's G&P "marine" stock, hoping to get at least 2350mah in there lol

Never had any issues with my turnigy or zippy batts, the nanotechs are great.
I've seen 4 of the 1200mah nanotech sticks fry, but that was due to operator error. And it took them a LONG ass time to blow. Everytime we saw the pack was slightly inflated, first 3 times we left it on my driveway for about 4 hours with no effect, so we purposely shorted the cells and let me tell you it takes a LOT of effort to get those batts to puff up. After shorting it for a good 30 seconds, it took another hour or two before it ballooned, and it never smoked or vented, just turned a little black. Last time I just chucked the battery since it's not entertaining -_-
You can really only cause these things to vent when you're charging them lol

trying to find a nanotech 3s that will fit into my g36c handguard... either that or a higher C and mah 2s. only one that fits is the 2 panel one that I have tried so far.


I have a brick and 3 panel 3s batteries that just eek into my p90 battery compartment. 3s 25c 50c burst 1800 mah DAT lonex a1 loves it.

I have 2 Extreme fire cheetahs (1 is a 2n) running don's trigger master software.. really great. I also have a sw-sf-ii in the m14.. that one is just a bit bigger than the sw-sf, it has an extra gate for the 2nd trigger wire. The battery gates are on the opposite side so you can put it in line.


The TM software is great, coupled with the lonex a1 and 16:1 gears, my p90 has instantaneous trigger response and ability to program RoF or burst. I normally run 15rps with the A1 but I've been doing some feed testing at 30rps (100% motor speed). What's great about the software is I can tell it to shoot the first round at maximum motor speed for DAT TRIGGER response... and subsequent holding of the full auto the motorspeed is reduced to my programmed rate. With this mode on, semi shots are always 100% motor speed, while full auto first shot is 100% and the rest that follow come at an ammo conservative 50% rate. Best way to get maximum trigger response with higher output setups but not empty your mags.

If anyone is wondering I have confirmed that the 7.4V Turnigy Nanotech 1300mAh Rx/Tx pack will fit in a VFC PEQ15 box. They're on back order at the moment though.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ver_Pack_.html

They're kind of weak sauce wires but do it's job if you can solder your choice of connectors to the pack.

Thanks for the data points. This should be required reading for the folks who have doubts about exploding LiPos, especially high quality/high durability ones. The R/C batteries are made to take some especially intense abuse.

But when your battery (and AEG) collection grows, how do you charge everything for yourself (and annoying teammates) before a big game?

http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-6219634..._2228_74154263

Yep, 4 at a time!

Not powerful, but my favourite lipos:
KA 11.1v 1100mah 15C
Intellect 7.4v 1000mah
Perfect for M4s.

Thunder T6 looks like a rebrand of the Hobby King Quattro 4x6s charger. I've heard from people it's not that great because of non precise lipo balancing for the cells but other than that it's a great charger for teams or shops. But how many people here have Fluke multimeters and care about a greater than .03v difference between lipo cells.

I still prefer Turnigy stuff though (I recently got an Accucel6, and almost splurged on the Turnigy Smart6 but realized that it was probably too much since airsofters don't really care as much about batteries as RC'ers, also I didn't really need the wide graphic screen, it's nice but not really needed).

I run 2200 turnigy. In the Masada and my p90.
Although if there's a 2250 I can fit in a p90 I may need to try it.

I run that 11.1v 1300mah 25-50c stick lipo exclusively in my rifles now.

Currently running the Gate GDS-4005, MERF 3.2, AWS Stealth and Raptor. I used to run the Cheetah-2N and the SW-SF FET but have to say that there are now better things out there. I've still got them, but don't find myself reaching for them for a build.
I have to say that I really enjoy the GDS-4005 and Stealth immensely. The other units have features that I often find myself not using.

Oh, and I also put this together from scrap parts one day. LOL!
Helps me to get ready for games in a hurry. Since all my batteries are at storage voltage, bringing 6 batteries up to full charge takes only an hour tops
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/28476909/20120915_012439.jpg

Turnigy 11.1 2200mah 40-50c
I have two of these they are my regular workhorses

Turnigy nano-tech 11.1 3300mah 45-90c
run this on my DSG setup

Turnigy nano-tech 14.8v 25-50c
this i just play with have based a few highspeed guns around this battery almost catches my dsg.

echo 1 11.1v 1100mah 15c
i have two of these for my ptw

King arms 11.1 1100mag 15c
agian ptw

and i had a turnigy 11.1 6000mah 60-120c
thing was a beast


Now mosfets i have a few custom built cheetah 2n (3 have tm programing built/tweaked by me, and two built by terry with his programing), also have several home built SMU's, as well as a few with active breaking.

i love neo mag motors and highspeed gears and have more then i know what to do with laying around.

I have seen lipos burst into flames, spit out smoke, and grow almost twice there size. ever wanna see one go bad check out the local model airplane or rc clubs theyve been using em far longer then youd imagine.

I've been cutting back on features too, programmability kinda takes a back seat to power delivery and simplicity these days. Hey, any chance you can badger Gate to make a version of the GDS that has screw-down terminals like the SW? Those rail style terminals are cool but I don't think the designer really appreciates how lazy people like me are.

What in blazes is going on in this picture?

What compartments/spaces do you run these two in?

I have to ask...

Kind of looks like it was ripped out of a computer. Length suggests either a Flex ATX or TFX12V PSU. Looks like the PSU has multiple ports for power delivery and is combined at one point with a 4 pin Molex.

Then 2 HK ECO 6-10's. Which I think are either the OEM for the GT A-6-10 or a clone version of the GT A-6-10.

I have no clue how that setup works (I'd be OK with the answer "magic" or "*hand wave* .... PROFIT"), just my observations of what's happening.

Meanwell supply hooked up to dual HK Eco 6-10s, attached to scrap board and was initially wall-hung to save space.


They were just leftover stuff from a project that involved charging some massive batteries for an e-bike that would make the largest airsoft battery look like a AAA.

I run most my batteries in bat bags (I use 1/4-3/8" thick plexi with a metal backing so the lipos are protected). and i love that you noticed the had part haha, that lipo got dropped on the corner and started to go bad so we shot it up and hit it with a hammer to make it smoke like a sonofabitch and light on fire.

11.1V 1300mah 14.4Wh 15C
hobbyzone

love it

turnigy nano-tech (airsoft) 7.4v 2000mah 15-25c (makes a perfectly shimmed gun sound like ass)
nano-tech (airsoft) 7.4v 1300mah 25-50c (ak stick pack, mostly for testing purposes. also makes guns sound like ass)

nano-tech 7.4v 2200mah 35-70c (pretty awesome)
turnigy regular 11.1v 1800mah 40-50c (effing amazing)

running through a 3034-powered SW-SF-2

I would run 14.8v or 18.5v batteries, (or at least bigger 11.1's) but I just don't have the space. =.=" as is, the 11.1v 1800 pack takes some wrangling to fit inside my stock (G&P marine stock long. designed for beastly sub-c cells...which are round. lipos generally aren't.)

Excuses!! Fix that shimming boy! And cut those damned sideburns!

anyone know what the biggest 11.1v lipo I can stuff into a CA g36c handguard is? my 7.4 totals about 15mm in height and 35mm wide and is fairly tight to fit, so the only dimension I have to play with is length, which goes out to about 145mm.. but let's say 130mm to be on the safe side. The higher the discharge the better... already been through all of hobby king's listings for nano-techs, none really fit the dimensions.

This is one of the best batteries I've used and it fits perfectly in my Echo1 P90 compartment.http://imageshack.us/a/img62/4867/201209161309501.jpg
This has seems tons of use and abuse and it can still get my P90 shooting over 35 RPS combined with a G&P M160 motor and 13:1 SHS gears. When compared to my Turnigy 11.1v 2000 mAh nano-techs, they actually perform a bit better! Only issue is that I can't for the life of me track down any more GE power batters. :(

GE Power? AFAIK they still make RC and Tx/Rx batteries. You can find them on alibaba (kind of like Amazon except a Chinese version of that) but you kind of have to be a bit careful of that site. Not sure about if they still make "airsoft batteries" though but you know how yours has those guy on the front, well the RC batteries don't have anything and the Tx/Rx batteries have a RC controller on them where there's those guys on the front.

I picked up a couple of lipos from this eBay store. Cheap and free shipping.

http://stores.ebay.com/Demon99/_i.ht..._sid=893046486

you may wish to peruse this.
make sure you get the ASM minimum 30C though =D


wat. I cut my sideburns off last week! (haircut lol)
but really, the shimming is as good as it'll get. (Lonex gearbox, TX bushings, Riot 14.09's, baby franken-torque with Prommy pinion) there's not much room with that combo. 0.01 lower (towards the left shell) will heat up after 5 shots and 0.01 higher (towards the right shell) won't cycle cause the tappet gets stuck.

right between the two: smooth as butter. sounds great on my 9.6v sub-c and the 7.4v 35-70c, it's just those two batteries. (probably the 16awg wire from the pack to plug)
it's not really a quiet setup anyways =S my SHS m120 _barely_ qualifies as non-linear, ARS metal spring guide (metal on metal spring...) SHS 15t (swissed. metal on metal teeth) and a 1/4" 70d sorbo pad on a Guarder CH with the original pad on top of the sorbo (huge slap noise)...everything together makes for a pretty noisy gearbox.

hmm... one might fit... and it's only 1500 mah 25c discharge. on backorder though... Guess I'll put the order in and when it comes, it will come. Hopefully a 7.4 25c can pull a lonex a1. :P

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=11943

These batteries are excellent in our group. We have about 50+ of them and they have never failed, and proved enough discharge and fit in almost any setup, not including buffer lipos and such, because they just don't have balls.

BOOM

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1149620/airs...aspec6600.jpeg

I wish this forum had a bat signal for usernames, MADDOG would love this thing.

do want.

we had a greylocks symbol at one point incase somebody needed flaming lol

It comfortably fits in the stock of a G&G RK-103 with tons of room to spare. I think there's enough room for a few sticks of jerky, a MOSFET and perhaps a glowstick.

This is a pretty impressively slim form factor for so much capacity and oomph.

I looked at that but the 11.1 version is too big to fit. ;)

Dat mAh..
I'm using a 11.1v 3200 mAh 35C lipo from team great hobbies (well I haven't shot it yet, but its sitting - waiting for the gun to be finished).

I currently run a Team Great Hobbies 11.1v 50C 3300mAh in my M16. Barely fits in the stock with the wiring. This is massive lipo overkill to be running on a mostly stock gearbox. But with proper shimming and tuning nothing bad has happened yet. Does about 20rps on the stock gears and motor using a Bravo III mosfet for control.

I'm also using a Team Great Hobbies 7.4v 35C 2200mAh in my ICS CXP08. It goes in a Cyma PEQ-2 battery box with room left over for your excess wiring. Haven't had a chance to run it in a game yet.

dat space station.

Why not just use one of these and crank your gear ratio up?

With a decent motor the 7.4 I posted will turn your gears effortlessly at pretty much any spring strength and any gear ratio.

BLASPHEMY!

High speed gears only work with 11.1v lipos. Nothing else :)

http://i.imgur.com/ChKXKwB.jpg

The poor 7.4v saddle pack looks so slim...

Yep, these are the Aspec batteries I am running right now, more power!!!!!!!!
Last a whole day in the cold no issues at all in my AK

That's... a massive battery, you know?

Edit: Any way to fit one of these 7.4v batteries in an external box, no way it'll fit in a G36c if I were to try.

You could try a KV stock.

Your mission, should you choose to accept it: M190, 13:1 ratio.

Going to try an M170, 20:1 ratio this weekend on a 1300mah 25C. LOL.

Hah. The problem with a build like this is that it's pretty useless/academic . Realistically at the places we play at with Maddog , an M140, maybe M150, is the upper range of what is going to be allowed. I'm pretty confident really high discharge batteries make high voltages superfluous .. I'm running into this myself. I have been toying with a ~500fps build that still is too high of a rate of fire to be reasonable, this with my 6.0/40+/2S. In light of this: Why waste the extra use of volume on volts when you could be optimizing for Amperes?

Counter challenge : find an unusually high discharge (150A) pack that's only one cell. Throw high speed gears, neodymium, a strong spring and all the rest at it . Conventional wisdom says we don't go there ... Why not ?

A cursory look at hobby king shows plenty of packs at 3.7V with monster C values. John, you know you're tempted to do the low rpm ultra diesel torque build of airsoft ;)

(and give it the fastest gear ratio on earth)

I would like to see someone try and wrestle a m190 into a mechbox without an explosion of parts, film it if you try. :)