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ICS M4 Upgrades?
I have an ICS M4 and I'm looking to put some parts into it that will make it more reliable and up to par with some higher end AEGs.
I'm looking for some input from the community on what they think I should put into it. I'm not looking to revamp the ENTIRE thing, just looking to make it more sturdy and more reliable (no issues after 8 months of use). So far all I have put into it is a Madbull Tightbore. I appreciate the help! |
does it have a metal receiver?
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Yes it is all metal.
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change the piston and piston head, same with the cylinder head, if you have stock parts in it.
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Going to go in the order of importance to me at least.. and will exclude the tightbore since you've already got that covered.
New Piston. I've had mine gamed 3 times and a piece of the stock piston blew the fuck off.. Lucky I had a spare one kicking around at home, and I had a secondary gun to use. Hopup rubber - cheap upgrade so definitely worth it New Cylinder head - better airseal is pretty important to have. A solid sping and spring guide - usually bought together and you defintely don't want to keep the plastic one they provide. Metal body (if you don't have one already) - very hard to find, and also with the older metal bodies sometimes you'll find that mags might not seat properly... just use electrical tape on your mags or in your mag well to have it seat right. (only SOME mags have this issue) I think that would probably be it for me... especially since you don't plan to revamp the entire thing. I think the most costly thing from that list would be the metal body... if you dont' have one already. for the extra stuff you might want, but I don't see a real benefit for me. Motor - something with a higher rate of fire, but I rarely use full auto spray.. maybe burst, but with the slower ROF means I can keep peoples heads down longer metal shims and buckings for your gear box - not too pricey, but I wouldn't do it unless something breaks LiPo battery - it will put a bit more strain on your internals, but shouldn't be much of an issue. Also might want to know when your battery is running low on juice. Don't want to fry something accidentally. Spring for charge handle - I've noticed this spring to be a little weak and sounds terrible so I swapped mine out Any other external cosmetic stuff... RIS.. front sights.. rear sights.. scope/red dot.. vert grip.. cheek pad rest... magpul MIAD grip (this is the customizable one so you can get the perfect grip on your gun) |
I do have a metal body already. It is a 2010 model.
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M&P
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while we are on the ICS topic, are ICS split gearbox lower receivers different from the normal ones?
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Split gearbox lower receivers? A gearbox and receiver are two different things. And yes the ICS gearboxes are different than other AEG gearboxes for the simple fact that ICS is a split gearbox, and most other makes are not.
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ah ok.
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most of the upgrade parts are the same
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Someone here with a plastic handguard had tried to install a RIS handguard? Cause I bought a RIS and put in on my ICS M4, and it wouldn't lock tight. I can pull the lower part easily. And I am planning to buy a sling adapter, but I want to make sure I won't waste another $$..
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Garcia check your inbox. sent you the same info i got, i asked the same question
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Quick run-down.
ICS is great stock. If you want to upgrade/change stuff: Piston, piston head, cylinder head. Theses are the first thing you should change. Spring and spring guide. As long as you run the stock spring, the plastic guide will be fine. Then, tightbore, hop-up rubber. KEEP the stock hop-up system, it works just too good. Bushings if your version has nylon ones. And then, motor and gears (both are the same time, the ICS gears are known to break and the angle of the bevel is not the same as "TM" standard, so if you change just one, your gun will sound horrible). |
what about for the external upgrades? like the delta ring, I bought the dboys one, but it wont fit, the dboys delta ring is smaller than the ICS delta ring.
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I had to put my sling adapter on backwards since you can't replace the stock ICS plate.. looks odd but it works.
I'll be fitting an ASAP on it well asap...lol |
There's no problem on it? Maybe I'll try that one. :D
what kind of adapter is that? |
Do what kosmos said... then...
if you have the infinity motor... unless you want to go to a M120 spring you can keep it if you want to go to M120 go with the turbo 3000 ics motor (sounds a bit loud but very sturdy unit and NO gear match problems. Dont mess with the hopup on an ICS it's probably one of the strongest features of this aeg ((need there be... just replace with stock ics parts)) The upper gearbox can use an internal blueprinting/polishing job (makes the unit operate smoother, cycle a bit faster and shoot about 15 fps faster I find the 11.1v lipo a bit agressive for the split gearbox design but bare in mind if you go that way you need to install a mosfet switch the secret to a reliable ICS is preparation and maintenance... not mods TM style M4 gearbox take a long time to dismentale and clean (thats why people dont do it) on the other and you can teardown/clean and reassemble an ICS upper gearbox in under 25 minutes. That gun is a charm to keep up and when properly maintained will give you a long trouble free service life Cheers Pete |
Thanks for all the help guys! I know what I'm going to be doing with my ICS now.
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I am running a 11.1V 15C 1500mah li-po on a stock ICS aeg... Unfortunately the piston last tooth came off... Since I can't play in the fields with a 400-450+ fps, I will go for the ROF.
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I chronied my ICS M4 stock it's only at average of 320FPS
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Yeap... that is normal
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That will take you to about 350-355 fps without any Modification related reliability issues and you get to keep that 1 bb per Ma average Cheers |
What do you mean by "Blueprint" the upper gearbox?
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here... thats blueprinting an ICS upper
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On a ICS M4 split gearbox!the two halves of the upper gearbox castings are a bit crude.. ruff Two problems 1) The ruff surface or the casting literally grinds the piston and the particules contaminate the whole gearbox (remember that sandpaper is grit glued to a sheet of paper... if you put the grit in grease... it's still sandpaper!!!) So by doing that you actually reduce piston, gear, seal and cylinder wear drasticaly plus you (IF you polish the whole gearbox) eliminate most stress risers (crack will developpe in those imperfections) think sheet of paper with a small tear in it, if you pull that is were it will fail (tear up) 2) that friction slows down mouvement (piston and nosle plate) makes it harder for the gears and motor.... plus slows down stroke ((smoother cycle = more FPS, faster ROF and less wear obviously)) PLUS your upper gearbox looks like a millions bucks ---------------------------------------------------------------------- So what you do is you disassemble your upper and you prep the piston guiding tracks ( clean the halves with a toothbrush and liquid dish detergeant in a warm bath) a) with a wet 600 paper and the proper tickness solid block you run the paper up and down the valley until all asperities are gone. (sharp corner too) Note: If the paper doesnt have solid (hard) backing) it will smooth the whole area WITH the bump still in it ((take has little of has you can)) if you cant feel it with your finger... it's not going to slow down anything much b) Using metal polish (I LOVE autosol) (on Q-Tips and/or shaped toilet paper) complete channel polishing c) do the area were the nosel plate grinds optional d) do the whole int/ext bit because now you've become obscessive compulsive e) when you regrease use synthetic teflon grease ((has little has necessary)) People put to much grease because they think if's better an end up gunking up the whole thing ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Every 50000 bb's (in clean none desert condition) crack the upper gearbox open, clean (dish liquid again) check piston condition remove o-ring (on piston head) and decontaminate o-ring (LDD again) plus a bit of rubbing with a coton cloth , replace if condition is altered Remember that sand will find it's way into a SCELLED gearbox so if you play in a sand box... guess what your doing that night!!! Check cylinder ((if it's brass) and you feel weard things (very... no extremely politely repolish the inside with autosol (metal polish) PS you can renew the exteror shine with brazo metal polish also reclean with LDD dry with clean coton rag, remove dust, regrease inside out and store in a ziplock bag until reinstallation If your cylinder is chrome or stainless it shouldnt have that much wear, if so use Autosol (metal polish) here too Beware that if you polish the cylinder to much at some point you will lose compression (( bare in mind that clean well lubricated o-ring and piston is the secret to minimal cylinder wear. Questions, comments... insults Cheers Pete |
No that's really informative! I just ordered my new spring and will have to do this. Are you aware of any videos for this? I don't mean to insult but something's I'm assure of as this is my first AEG and I have never opened it up after 8 months so I'm no gun doc.
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Yeap...
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Go on youtube and what these teardown videos YouTube - Airsoft AEG ICS M4 Disassembly Guide by AirSplat (M4 disassembly) YouTube - Airsoft AEG ICS M4 Gearbox Disassembly Guide by AirSplat (gearbox disassembly) Insert blueprinting procedure here ... lol YouTube - Airsoft ICS M4 Gearbox Assembly Guide by AirSplat (gearbox assembly) YouTube - Airsoft AEG ICS M4 Assembly Guide by AirSplat (M4 assembly) |
Try to practice opening your own AEG, so that when trouble comes, and no one could help you, you know what to do. Just like what I did. I change the piston of my AEG, and put some new stuffs and set it for higher ROF. I wont change my stock spring so that I could play indoor and outdoor.
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Ye I will be taking mine apart tonight to put my new spring in, so hopefully I don't mess it up.
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remember the positions of any internals so that you wont mess it up. And do it slowly to avoid breaking. Watch the video on how to open the upper gearbox. You could lose your stock spring and the spring guide. :D
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Ye I'm going to snap photos before and follow the video while I do it. I got it :).
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You're going to be a future gun-doc when you got some experience. :D
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Well, I put the new S90 spring in it with no major problems. Condition of the gearbox looked great. I just had trouble fitting the spring back in, I didn't wanna break it, but realized that it was fine so just forced it in. Tested it, and works great!
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Great. my first time assembling the upper gearbox, I find a hard time pushing it inside. :D
But as soon as you got some experience, it would be easy. Next is the lower gearbox.. |
The new upper coming out will only make things easier :P
Can't wait... |
me too.. you can change the spring in a matter of seconds.
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Wait till you try it with a M120!!! (a smidgeon stiffer) literally a religious experiance (if you curse in french) very sexual (if you curse in English) Cheers |
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I have a question regarding the gears + motor.... If I was to change to TM gears, and TM Motor, angle will change, and I will have to use a non-ICS pistol grip? Or angle will always be the same, and I can continue using the ICS pistol grip... *Cuz the ICS pistol grip is nice enough imo* :P |
I have to ask.... and why would you do that ?
cause the gears are Ok and you can upgrade to an ICS turbo 3000 if you need more horse power (R...r...r Home improvement lol) and you get to keep your pistol grip... Cheers Pete |
When I change the gears one day for a more silent motor :D....
It already is using an ICS turbo 3000.... |
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Do you guys know how many types of ICS m4/m16 receiver trademarks has? or how many have you guys seen that's made for ICS m4 / m16 variant?
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They have the M&P Smith and Wesson reciever(standard one), a laser engraved Colt reciever and in the UK they have Olympic arms recievers.
There might be more but in my searches that's all I've ever seen.. If you have the standard one you could get in engraved with anything you want though... |
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Sounds like you were testing him o.O
but yeah... My original question... If you change the gears and the motor, will the angle change, and I will have to get a TM-compatible grip if I don't want to do any modding? |
I think what they meant by the angle changing is just the angle of the bevel on the gears. If you change the motor to a TM compatible motor, the angle of the pinion gear on the motor won't match the angle of the stock ICS gears. Or vice versa..
I can't see the angle of the motor itself changing. |
Just wanted to post up here, I am in the middle of swapping front ends on my ICS so I picked up an Element Delta ring and it threaded on with no modification. Perfect fit.
Not sure if ICS has been making changes to the things people were hating about the old models but I was sure happy I didn't have to mod the threads... |
I upgraded my piston to this element 7-tooth piston (http://torontoairsoft.com/product.php?id_product=381) it worked well after few dry fires but then the fist tooth (plastic) got scraped and the piston won't move anymore because the gears wont reach the piston so I ended up putting back the stock piston.
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LuckySeven, just get a prometheus or other high end piston and screw the 5 $ pistons.. had same problems when ibought cheap pistons IE: Deep Fire, element, APS. Just stick with the more expensive Pistons and youll be a happy camper .
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I think, ICS's stock piston is better than this element 7-tooth piston.. It has a metal teeth too. And the second tooth was removed.
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