Tokyo Marui - Glock G18C - Reviews?
 

Hey Guys; I was just curious if anyone here has got one of the recently released TM - Glock G18C - GBB Pistols yet? If so, what do you think of it?

Also does anyone know if the threaded outer barrel that Guarder makes for attaching a mock silencer onto the TM - G17 - GBB Pistol, would also work on the G18C?

I am curious because I really want to get one of these TM pistols to replace the KSC one that I sold, and I want to make sure that I can "pimp" it out if I get one. :D

Thanks for reading my post

Gord

arniesairsoft has a review as well longterm reliability

It would be nice to have a link to it because I wasn't able to find it on the website or Google.

Me Too?
Does anyone else have trouble navigating Arnies site?
I can never seem to find anything that I am looking for on there.

Maybe its just me.

Please post a link to this review if you can.

Thanks

Gord

Its awesome, get it....

Outer barrel "should" work, but the same issue applies with the whole fitting deal, slide+barrel combo will greatly affect how well it'll work...

Issues: The gun shooting Green as with most TM glock, will stress the frame quite a bit, the plastic screw post will likely break. The same problem will likely happen with stock frame OR the Guarder frame....

Hammer spring might be weak for green gas in warmer weather. I've had light strike problem with room temp around 76-78 deg F.

Tokyo Marui G18c needs repair
 

I just received this gun a few weeks ago from what I have been reading it should out last most other soft air pistols. I have been having fun upgrading it. Strong hammer & recoil springs metal slid kit new piston valve. But can not for the life of me find a new hop up unit for the TM G18c. This is driving me crazy:???: The 1st thing to go on this pistol running it on propane stock was the ABS slide. The slide look stopped working from 2000 rounds aluminum slide fixed this problem. Nearly 5000 rounds latter the hop up unit cracked. the slide became stiff to rack but the gun keep firing. So I decided to field strip it because after shaking the gun It sounded like a broken BB stuck on the inside. Gun would not open then after fighting with it for 10 minuets or so it gave in. A small peace of what looks like pot metal broke off the hop up unit. The peace that hooks the barrel down to the gun frame. The part number for the peace that cracked is 18C-27 I would much rather have a after market hop up unit made of some thing stronger. This is one part that needs to be upgraded for this type of gun.

Its a pistol. There are no such things as aftermarket hop up units. Check Tokyo Model for a replacement hop up unit (hint, use advanced search and search for Pistol Parts/Tokyo Marui).

Maybe I haven't been around long enough, but I've never seen or heard of hop up units destroying themselves like that, TBH. What the heck did you do to yours?

It is the peace that hooks on the frame of the gun I think with each blow back there is some stress on this part. I fired alot of rounds.

Do you run any kind of buffer on the recoil guide? And do you only use full auto?

This gun probably stresses the part more than the Glock 17 which shares lots of the design. Its not going to be that durable even running with metal kits with green gas.....Buffer should help absorbing some impact, but it probably won't help stopping some weak parts to start breaking...

Hop-up right now has no aftermarket part, so you are pretty much stuck to track down a stock part. As mentioned, Tokyo Models seem to stock a lot of stock parts, might be best to look there first...

What is the safest best buffer tube then? Sorry I still feel a little new to GBBs.

I was looking at this one, but I'm not sure. http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/nine-ball...-g18c-gbb.html

I HATE 9Ball parts. Hate them, with a passion....pretty much every single 9Ball parts I've had broke. So I avoid them(except their hopup rubber, and now their plastic BBU for Hi-Capa, but I haven't put enough round through it yet, I am sure it'll break next time I shoot CAPS, in the middle of the COF) At any rate, Instead of that, I'd use something like this:

http://www.dentrinityshop.com/pr_details.jsp?pid=16000

Again, 2 piece guide rod, and then you can machine your own buffer out of some kind of durable plastic. Thats my plan anyway....

Things about 9Ball is that they are still a Japan brand, their parts are still made with duster in mind...

Recoil buffer
 

Yes I made one for it out of soft vinyl. The 150% recoil rod & spring set I got did keep unscrewing a little cause the recoil rod to stick out of the slide. This may have caused it to break. Always my luck:roll: I checked out that Tokyo-model website & they do not have a part. The part I am looking for if I have to buy the whole unit is a Tokyo Marui G17 or G18c Hop Up Chamber. I seen some one on this forum that could buy Tokyo Marui direct but can not remember his name. You can see behind the recoil buffer the peace that is broke. The gun will still fire this way but cant be good for it so I wont shoot it till this is replaced. It is wearing the black of the aluminum barrel cover & the slide is stiff. Also the take down switches become very difficult to use so bad in fact all my nails are wornen down to the nub's.

Wanna make me one hehe.

I guess I'll just be careful with G18c and do single shot and auto in bursts if I really have too :)

I wish it wouldn't be prone to breakage so easily, even with metal upgrades.

I know thats why I got it in the 1st place. I was tired of softair guns for the longest time because they all break so easy. I spent over $300 on this gun & it breaks 3 weeks later. I even felt ok when it broke like Tokyo Marui is a good company replacement parts should be easy to find. Yea this one does not seem so easy to find. But thats why I came here I am sure some one knows what to do :p

Problem is you can't upgrade the internals, like most guns....pot metal innards are pot metal innards.....

Thats ok I just need a new Hop Up Chamber let me know if you know were I can get one. Thank you.

I'd try to write to Tokyo Model Company. They are pretty good with e-mail, give them the part number, see what they can do for you...

Sorry I forgot yes I Emailed them about an hour ago I hope they respond. Cant even get a reply from where I got it redwolfairsoft

They do exist... for Hi-Capa only, at this time (big surprise there. LOL.)

I've seen it happen to a TM G17 before as well

One major problem I've seen with a couple of them is the original ABS slide cracks at the front sight. Not chips and big gaping holes but hairline cracks from regular use. So who knows it may blow out in the future but that was what metal slides were made for.

This is very frustrating. Red wolf contacted me. He is checking on the part. Until then I will try & find a way to make this weak point on the hop up unit stronger then before. I cut away the break & cleaned it up. Made a new hook out of a thick steel sheet. I drilled a hole in the hop up unit. I will screw the hook down & J&B or epoxy in place.

When griding away at the stuff with my Dremal It seemed to be stronger then pot metal. It is just a very weak spot for the part that broke off. I almost think my new idea may be stronger.

It's still pot metal, even if it may not seem like it to you. Marui just uses a higher aluminum content in their alloy. There's higher nickel content as well, which is why it doesn't oxidize as easily as high zinc alloys.

Glock 18c HopUp repair
 

So I am not getting much help. This is sad because this was the reason I chose to go with a Tokyo Marui in the first place. I have had the pistol for less then a month I contacted Redwolfairsoft & they tell me I will have to pay just to see if they can order the part from Marui. So I have been working on a temp fix until I can get the right part. This new steel part may be stronger then the original part. The peace that broke off is not held on by much at all. Photo's of this are on the 1st page. With the stronger recoil & hammer springs I installed. This is putting more stress on the hopup unit hook that looks the barrel down to the frame. To make it even more stronger & permanent I have it J&B welded clamped in a vise with a pair of vice grips. We will see what happens.

Sorry, never happened to me. Not my fault shit breaks on you? Kinda hard for me to help when I have no idea how that even happened/could happen.

I never said it was anyones fault. Just frustrating you know? Thats why I am working on a fix & posting this stuff in case it happens to anyone else. It would be nice to find a new part tho.

Drilled a hole in the hop up unit then threaded the hole with a screw. I cut the ends off the screw and cut a very small slot in it. Making a grub screw. Nothing can be sticking out the bottom of the hop up. I tested it with this alone & the gun fired perfectly for 75 rounds. Then the slide became ruff to rack. The gun would jam every other shot or so. This is because the barrel is only locked down on one side. I striped the gun to find my hook had bent up a tad bit. So I bent it back & filled the gap in with rosin core solder. Much more solid & should keep it from bending upward.

Hey guys, does anyone know if it's the Glock 17 Guarder frame that can fit unto the 18c or is there another one just for the Glock 18c ?

remember that problem I mentioned earlier about the front sight cracking and blowing out. Well guess what it just happened to me on a brand new G18c, not even 200 rounds in and it just went pop and the whole spring guide flies out...

What's up with that?

I'm quite suprised, I've heard nothing but bad things about the
TM 18c. A whole decade since the ksc, yet still plagued with problems...

sad - alex






edit : mrbond -> frame no workey

I was really wondering because this guy --> http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=114887 sells a TM Glock 18c w/Guarder frame and I was wondering wich frame he used or where he got it from... I would really go for that. I PMed him but haven't got a response yet.

for the front sight breaking, perhaps a buffer might prevent this from happening

All these stories are scaring me man, I haven't had a problem with mines yet, so it's probably a ticking time bomb now.

Ha ha I'm new to the whole Tokyo Marui/complicated/breakage-prone/auto-pistol game myself but one thing you learn quickly that's encouraging for sure... anything breaks and there's a million upgrade or replacement parts for it, just gotta go fishing for 'hem! ;)

And you know if the slide does break, an original TM replacement is like 15$, no biggie (albeit annoying...)

this website gives what u have been wondering.

http://www.justpistols.co.uk/tmg18c.htm

Guarder frame works fine for me on the G18C...

http://www.pbase.com/racingmaniac/image/130327941

You mean the G17 frame from guarder? Is the quality much better then the TM frame?

I also hate the TM trades on my stock frame :(

Not really, all the parts that the TM breaks will break on guarder. But yeah, you get it for the marking.

And yes, the G17 frame.

Looks like the 18C isn't Tm's most reliable model.

Its no worse than G17, just the full auto imparts more load on the parts that are already suspect on the G17. Again, keep in mind they are still made for hfc 134......

so what parts have been breaking? and is there aftermarket in place for it? I had seen someone mention "a 'rod' shaped like an hourglass " on another board... any ideas what this is?

I'm actually just finishing up a new "primary" of a TM G18c in a carbine .. working on internal mods for consistancy, accuracy and reliablity.. not worried too much about power.

on my list is :

= TK twist barrel, firefly hop rubber
- firefly buffered and bearing'd recoil rod/spring set
- firefly rocket/piston head set.
- PGC cnc billet slide and outter

anything else I should add/delete interal wise?

so all the people that have broken parts, can we take a small poll as to how they were being fired?

like rarely on auto, quick bursts (I've noticed quick taps are 3rnd bursts), or full mag full auto strings of death and distruction?

this isn't intended to point a finger of "oh you abused yours, it's your fault!" ... just might help others... if they want their pistol slide atleast last longer to limit their full auto to very little...

the kick and ROF .. I can understand easily how and why the slides are blowing the nose off LOL .. this is an insane lil beasty of a pistol.... I've got mine in a Roni Carbine kit :D

Wow, I have been looking into getting a TM G18, but after reading all this I'm having 2nd thoughts. I was also thinking TM because of supposed reliability, quality, availability of parts and cheap mags. Not sure now... Does anyone know if the KSC G18 has the same reliability problems?

From what I've heard, its worse....the bigger problem on that front is that the parts are harder to come by...

Like I said, the gun still has all the virtue of all the TM guns, but again, you have to keep in mind that they were not designed for propane, even if most TM guns are OK with it, it does not mean they won't run into durability issue at one point or another firing the more powerful gas.

All of the problem that I've seen on G18 has had happened on other TM Glock, just that it might happen faster if you use FA a lot, on propane.

Racing, isn't the main issue usually with TM is the slide breaks? I know there's a aluminium ones, wouldn't that solve the problem?

I know on 5-7, you simply can't use the gun with propane without destruction of internal above 25 degrees. Not sure if G18 has it but, 5-7, slide will break, hopup unit will break.

There are some other issue, notably with the frame...
http://www.pbase.com/racingmaniac/im...3/original.jpg

Note the crack around the screw hole. This is the stock TM G18C frame, after less than 200 round on propane, on a stock gun(meaning no metal upgrade, no spring upgrade)

hmm so I guess TM is becoming more and more like Maruzen, Tanaka WA where it only takes HFC134a

Even their big seller like 1911 or Hi-Capa are still suspect...the cylinder cracks for those...but thats a relatively simple fix...

So if I want a G18, TM is still the best bet to go with?

ive put several hundred rounds thru mine both propane (while outside) and air duster, but mostly duster gas, absolutely no problems.

mine seems to be okay so far as well. I am scared to do full auto for prolonged periods after hearing about all the malfunctions. I have the following upgrades:

-SD slide + outer barrel
-Guarder 150% hammer and recoil spring
-short stroked

Im also waiting for my upgrades to arrive:

-150% enhanced trigger spring
-200% recoil spring
-150% muzzle spring
-firefly floating valve

I just looked at my TM G18c and it seems to be fine. I've only recently acquired it and have just done some minor plinking in the house (maybe around 100 rounds).

I disagree with some people here and think that the KSC is more reliable. Their semi-auto glocks (G19) are among the most reliable ever but their auto's are decent. I've only broken slides and rocket/floating valves on my KSC G23F (shrunken G18C). Once upgraded to a metal slide and metal rocket/floating valve they have been very reliable for me, on propane and full auto.

As mentioned in this thread however, parts can be a little tricky to get but defiantly out there.

Thanks for all the opinions, it's nice to hear what people from all around the country outside my airsoft community think. Down here everyone just uses propane for their gbbs, I was unaware of readily available alternatives here in Canada. This may sound like a dumb question but when you guys say duster gas do you literally mean that canned air stuff to clean keyboards and such?

Does anyone know of a video showing the proper disassembly of a Tokyo Marui G18C slide ?

I am thinking about upgrading mine to a metal slide, but I would like to see what I am getting into before I jump into it.

I have looked around Youtube but I couldn't find and dissassembly vids for this G18C model.

Any hints or tips would be much appreciated.

Thanks

Gordo

Yeah you wont find any, because Ive tried.. but its not that difficult:

1. Take off the slide, remove recoil spring/spring guide and outer barrel/hop up assembly.

2. Looking at the rear interior of the slide, there is a Phillips screw. Remove that and the bracket and rear sight should come out.

3. Remove that plate at the bottom of the slide that interacts with the selector switch. There should be a spring at the bottom.

4. Remove the safety selector switch by aligning the selector nub inside the slide, with the nub hole on the slide. The selector should be able to be taken out now. BE CAREFUL, there is a small pin, and spring that may fly out. These are used for the selector to engage the notches on the slide. Underneath the spring, there is also a small metal ball.

5. You can now remove the entire BBU/air nozzle.

6. You can also unscrew the Phillips screw at the front of the slide that holds the front sight in place.

Congratulations, you have officially disassembled your Marui G18C!

WOW Thanks for taking the time to write out this detailed description! You Rock!

I will print it off and use it as a guide when I go to do the upgrade.

Thnaks again

Gordo

so whats the fix for the frame cracking?

Composite frame + some JB weld/Epoxy inside the frame right in the recess behind the screw post should do the trick, helps prevent unwanted torsional forces in the post.

TM - G18C Threaded Barrell
 

Check out this post for more info;

http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showpos...6&postcount=21

Gordo

You can do it with the stock TM frame too, but yeah thats essentially what I did.

I tried disassembling my lower frame today just to get used to taking it apart for future upgrades. I successfully removed the slide lock, the rear internals (not sure if I was supposed to), unscrewed the screw in the front end of the frame. But that's it. I'm not sure what else to do.

Here are a couple of videos I made on the assembly of the TM G18C on another thread http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthr...60#post1390560

Just do it backwards lol.

YouTube - TM Glock reassemble

YouTube - TM Glock Assembly detail

To pop the guts out of the TM Glock, you need to remove the 2 screws, take down lever, trigger pin, and the rear cross pin that pinned the hammer/striker mechanism. The front and rear portion can then be slide out with the trigger bar linking the 2 of them.

Hey Qlong, GREAT VIDEOS!!! Thanks for sharing those with us.

Any chance that you would consider doing a disassembly or reassembly video for the slide on a Tokyo Marui G18C ?? :D

It would sure be helpful if you would make one for us.

Thanks again

Gordo

oi! ...

guess I need to do that screw post reinforcement... I've got well over 1K rnds on mine ... on propane.. in and out of the carbine.

but it was cold... like.. between 5 and 15ish degrees from morning to early evening (aka couple game days... as a primary)


on a side note... TM G18C in a Roni carbine, check the clearance at the front of the slide. I've got a couple dimples at the top front edges of my slide now :( and occasionaly I'd get a single round fire "foul" trying to do full auto bursts as the slide bumped again the inside of the roni before it could cycle again.

was so far only a nuisance (nothing broken) ... but it did get me dead a couple times LOL


so far all I've got is a 6.0 TK twist inner barrel , and a firefly hop rubber.

shiney evil chrome/silver metal slide, metal outter, buffered multi stage recoil spring, and compensator are in the works/on the way :D

i'll be sure to keep this in mind when mine comes in.

I'm having trouble getting the BBU out of my TM glock 18c gbb.

I followed all the steps above....

I took out the selector switch, all the base plates/springs and managed to not lose the tiny ball and spring for the selector switch.

So I am at the part where it should just come out...and it seems to want to when I bend the slide a bit....but its stuck in there real good.

I'm afraid to flex the plastic slide too much in case it breaks.

I will keep trying but as far as I can see there are no more parts to take out so i dont know why its stuck in there good....

Okay well I managed to get the BBU out.

Turns out the plastic slide doesn't let it drop freely after disassembly, you really do need to torque the slide to let it out. I applied force in the right places (using the backplate helps a lot) and managed to squeeze it out.

Unfortunately, after I took it out and reversed the steps to place it back into my guarder metal slide...the gun doesnt work.

I poped in a fresh mag, and it just goes "pop" and nothing happens. It "pops" everytime I rack the slide...and when I tried the magazine in my KJ Glock 27 it worked like a charm. So I know there is gas in the mag....and my gun is functioning perfectly (as in all the switches and levers do what they should) ...then why wont it shoot? Guarder made this slide especially for TM....


Hammer spring maybe?

EDIT

Actually I think its not working because I managed to fuck up putting it back together... I just looked at the EhobbyAsia video of them comparing the TM 18c to the KSC and in the shots of both slides upside down, I could clearly tell that a spring visible on my slide is not visible on their slide...

I really wish we had a full guide on how to take apart the slide...but i will try and use the manual to see if I can figure it out.

EDIT 2

Okay so I fixed the slide by putting that spring in the right place. Turns out exploded view in the manual is really helpful.

The thing is, even though I successfully transferred the guts to the guarder slide, it still doesn't shoot...just that small little pop.

Anyone know if the TM glock 18c with metal slide refuses to shoot without a 150% hammer spring? I have one and will put it on in the hope it works...I heard that disassembling the trigger part of the Glock is really hard.

On stock hammer spring mine will light strike when temperature gets anywhere remotely close to 20C....

I am running 150% hammer spring on all my TM Glocks...

if you going for a gbb glock 18c id think you should go with the marui one, my brother "Noveske" has the KSC one and it has many problems with it.

Ok so today I went at it and tried to put on my 150% hammer spring in the glock.

So I took apart the hammer assembly quite easily...all I did was unscrew the little screw at the back...pop out both frame pins.....then lifted out the slide catch and the hammer assembly.

I took it apart one by one by popping out the top pin that holds the hammer and hammer spring in place as well as this center latch sorta thing. Then I popped out the lower pin that held this silver arm piece in and another spring in place. I swapped in my 150% spring and put it all back together and....it doesn't work!

The hammer wont raise anymore, it just remains in cocked position (flat with the rails of the frame).

I swapped back in the original hammer spring and...no luck it wont work either.

So basically I gave up and just put back the 150% spring in sad hopes that it will fix itself.

I took some pictures and when I find my usb cable i will upload so maybe you guys can help me see if I had all the pieces in right order...

:( so sad, just got this glock 18c and it dont even work...all cuz of this stupid metal slide.

When I took out my apart for the first time, I took out pictures incase if i messed up the trigger assembly. It served as reference pictures for me.. i was installing a guarder 150% recoil and hammer spring, 150% nozzle spring, floating valve, and replaced the air nozzle with a harder one since my stock one cracked.. neways, maybe these pictures will be of assistance to you.

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...t/IMG_9098.jpg
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...t/IMG_9097.jpg
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...t/IMG_9095.jpg

Hey Turok,

Thanks a lot man for posting those pictures.

I actually took some pictures of my assembly before I did anything too it in case I needed some reference photos (great minds think alike I guess haha).

And now that you posted yours I know that my assembly looks just like that! I made triple sure that I had every piece on the exploded diagram and I do...everything is in order...just the hammer won't uncock.

I might have to go buy a new usb cable for my camera to hook it up to my comp but when I do I will post a video of my problem. I would be glad to take photos of any part of the TM glock 18c for anyone who needs some.

I will try to make it a quick but detailed video showing the problem.

I'm sure this is an easy fix...If I have all the parts well installed and nothing missing, im sure someone can figure out why the hammer wont operate.

Also, in case I never manage to get this to work, anyone know of any Airsoft Gunsmiths? or if Velocity arms do repairs?

Thanks for all the help guys, so glad to be a part of this community.

Alright I took photos and I plan to go buy a new cable tomorrow before work. I'll have them uploaded tomorrow night.

Hopefully someone will be able to give me some insight :)

Ok here are the shots with their explanation.

I've uploaded these shots with ImageShack so if theres any problems and some people can't see them please suggest a better upload website and I will load them.


So this is my slide without the hammer mechanism, just posted in case someone spots something funny.
http://img101.imageshack.us/i/img2155l.jpg/

This is a photo of what the inside looks like when the hammer is disengaged. Now I noticed something funny, usually when the gun is cocked the trigger is enganged and is centered in the trigger guard. However, when the slide is not on, the trigger is disengaged when the trigger arm ( I don't know what it is called but it connects into the trigger mechanism and resets the trigger when pressed ) is ready.

http://img535.imageshack.us/i/img2157fy.jpg/

This is what my hammer assembly currently looks like (of course that piece and the spring are next to it because I couldn't hold them in place while taking a picture)

http://img715.imageshack.us/i/img2158ux.jpg/

This is the top view of the assembly when the hammer is cocked (remember it doesn't fully uncock, but can be replaced into cocked position)
http://img25.imageshack.us/i/img2161qy.jpg/

A side view to demonstrate how the hammer won't go all the way up
http://img88.imageshack.us/i/img2164l.jpg/

Angled, same thing
http://img545.imageshack.us/i/img2165f.jpg/

This is how I placed my 150% spring on the piece that it goes on....am I doing it wrong?
http://img543.imageshack.us/i/img2166g.jpg/


And this is what it looks like with the original spring ( I seriously don't get why it won't work even with the original spring...its as if taking apart the trigger mechanism renders it unoperable forever)
http://img832.imageshack.us/i/img2167ep.jpg/

I'm sorry for all the url's, it has been a while since I've used an online forum and I don't remember how to get thumbnails and for somereason switching url for img doesn't fix it :) If someone reminds me I will edit the post for easier viewing.

Thank you guys so much for any and all help!

are u sure thats how the hammer spring is supposed to go? im no expert myself because i only opened the hammer assembly once, so I dont want to give false advice. But isnt the smaller tip of the hammer spring supposed to be resting on the flat block of the hammer?

Well to be honest I didn't take a picture of the hammer spring before I took it apart since it kinda fell apart the first time.

Thing is, the instruction manual has an exploded diagram and according to the diagram that is how it goes.

However, I really really want to confirm this ....

Oh my f-ing jesus.

You sir, have just fixed my gun!

I can't believe I didn't see it before, I feel so retarded. The diagram doesn't necessarily show how to put the spring in...and...I guess I got it wrong.

I tried it your way and it worked, it was harder to put (naturally since its a 150% spring) back into place but it works.

I just tested it, and my gas magazine that i've had gased for a week now shot off a shot beautifully. Slide catch activated and everything.

I'm so f-ing happy you have no idea man, you made my night and then some! I thought i just bought a gun and broke it, and was going to have to spend cash on repairing it....

Thank you so much for the advice, I can't thank you enough for putting me back into perspective!

+ 1,000,000 internet points to you.

ahh well...what can I say :)

Sorry to necro this thread but for peace sake, I have to ask.

I want to know if anybody have hard time to install valve knocker on the glock 18c along with upgrade hammer spring, I have very hard time to put that valve knocker back together or maybe I did it wrong, any close up photo or video on that area especially valve knocker would be appreciate, thanks.

It's a bit of a challenge to hold the hammer and valve knocker in place with the 150% spring, all I did was use a punch to hold the parts in place then installed the pin and pushed the punch out slowly. I also had to press the hammer/valve knocker up and in a bit as I installed the pin so it would seat properly.

Unfortunately I just sold my Glock 18C so I can't show you on that but I still have my Glock 17 for time time being so I might be able to throw something together if you still can't get it.

I have had my G18c gbb for a few months now and it works incredibly well stock. I really do not see the how running these guns on propane is worth all the problems it seems to cause. I am curious however what fps you get with certain upgrades as this would help range in thick brush.

Why would you revive this thread to ask that? Why????!!! And with the most upgrades to fps possible it will still never go much above 400fps

Most 18c's work fine on propane, stock. People have shot thousands of rounds before getting a cracked slide or damaged screw post. At that time you simply upgrade to a metal slide or Guarder frame (which IMO feels MUCH more authentic than the smooth glossy plasticky Marui frame).
Propane will put you at around 290-300 fps stock on semi. Can be upped to 330-340ish with high flow valves/hammer spring/steel hammer/nozzle valve/piston/tightbore barrel.

For those still interested.

I bought a TM G18c, and as a stock gun it feels very plasticky.

Some highly recommended upgrades

1. Guarder Reinforced G17 frame (fits g18c perfectly, and has a very nice feel)
   
2. PGC Aluminum Slide kits (very hassle free install, no modifications needed and relatively light)
   
3. Enhanced Hammer Spring (the stock one I had could not knock out enough gas from a fully filled 50 round magazine).
   
4. Steel rear sights (the auto selector/mechanism of the G18C is sandwiched between the slide by a screw and the rear sight. This part actually takes a bit of stress as well, and metal threads > plastic threads in durability).

Happy hunting!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...zGhtwTfY#t=39s

I only bought this gun about 1.5 years ago and sold it soon after buying it because:

- most of the time you cant even use the full auto feature. Most games in CQB are semi-only, and if its not semi only throughout the entire field, its always semi only once you go into buildings/structures which makes the full auto option completely useless during games
- This gun is one of the worst TM guns in terms of overall weight and gun balance. I was fine with the fact that I could almost never use the full auto feature during games. What I could not stand was how light + poorly balanced this gun really is. I found that a large majority of the time I was aiming the gun too high, because of how light the front of the gun really is. It got to the point that I stopped gaming with it because I couldnt stand how inaccurate (due to weight, not the actual function of the gun) the gun really was. Its extremely frustrating when you play CQB and you constantly question why you not making the kills because you pointing the front end of the gun too high/low.

To counter this,i sold beucase I bought an TM 1911 MEU and the 5.1 Match custom, and both of those bad boys were much more heftier, an were 1000000x better in the overall balance department. During quick draws or quick target acquisition was when the Light weight of the Glock had me aiming the front of the gun too hight. Also, I have had multiple people tell me the same thing regarding the G18 and it being horribly balanced....

I discovered the same thing too, when you're focusing on your target, the muzzle involuntarily climbs up and you are firing BB's over your opponents heads. I don't have this issue with my KWA CZ75 so I am sure it's the Glock's poor weight distribution that's at fault.

The grip angle is also a factor in your aim, especially if your use to 1911 style grip angles, which is why I stick to 1911s and Sigs, just didn't feel comfortable or shoot well with the Glock both RS and AS. To remedy this you can add a after market beaver tail grip which is commonly found on the Custom TM Glocks.

Question for all TM G18c owners.
I've been using strictly duster gas.
I noticed my loading nozzle is slightly wobbly. If put my finger on it I can wiggle it around. Should it be this way or is it cracked?

Also, would a WE G18C nozzle work?
How do I know if I have a new version G18C? I got it 3 months ago in January this year.


Thanks for your help guys.

No a WE nozzle won't work, different dimensions. And does it use more gas then normal? My nozzle on my G18 is a little wobbly too and it functions fine. You should be ok

Awe, ok. It seems as efficient as ever.
One more thing, where would i find silicone oil? I found some at an RC store but there are many different weights. Would this be appropriate for use?

I usually get mine from Toronto airsoft. But the stuff you want is the really thin stuff. 15 weight I think

Ok thanks for your help much appreciated