Thanks n-force and good info. Mines an open chamber though

The top sides of the white.
Mine kept moving during Op Rhino. Was a pain to keep moving it back after every mag.

Scar Jam
 

Had an interesting Jam today... I think it was just excessive wear on the bolt so the hammer roller was not rolling but basically the bolt was jamming in the fully open position and fully closed position. By Jamming I mean that the bolt was solid and there was no movemnent no matter what I did. It only released when I removed the lower reciever and seemed to cycle fine with out it but would jam when put back on. Also if I took out the hammer (rest of the trigger assembly was in place) the gun would cycle fine but when I put the hammer in it would jam again. I filed down the bottom of the bolt and it seems to be working better, but time will tell. Has any one else encountered this before?

yes. the bearing on the hammer fell out when I had this problem. Does your hammer look damaged? And does the bearing spin freely? And do you grease the bottom of your bolt that comes into contact with the bearing?

Guys, Whats the difference between:

AND
Other than length, Is there any difference between the internals?

VA lists the bolt:
So I'd guess they are the same. Only difference would be the mags, correct?

since I've changing the close bolt to open, and also the RA NPAS steel bolt carrier open just to now, still all three of them having the same problem. I believe most likely is the triggle set. That's it for now...

PS: Love the open bolt carrier on the M4, kick ass... even the PDW one (must be with RA NPAS steel bolt carrier), so solid. Should have them all in day one.

Finally the PDW open chamber auto firing problem is fixed because of the trigger set. I have a spare one from M4 since I switched it to open, exchanged the hammer, trigger and the sear all 3 pieces, then it works so great and firing sounds awesome. Now I can enjoy the shooting but not just worry about how to fix it. For sure I'll have to do is have all those 3 pieces exchange to RA parts to make it a bit longer lasting.

Anyone have this problem where the BB keeps jamming right before the chamber? It happens when I charge the gun or when the gun cycles. This happens on all my mags and quite often too. I have to eject my mag and then pull the charging handle for the jammed BB to drop out and then reinsert the magazine to re-chamber the next round, but even then it sometimes jams again.

http://www.airsoftcanada.com/attachm...1&d=1314220345

I also noticed the loading nozzle usually gets sluggish/stuck right where it passes over the rubber part on the magazine. I suspect that the lower front part of the nozzle is rubbing on the the rubber piece of the magazine. I've sanded down that part on the nozzle and there's a bit of improvement, but the problem still occurs so I'll try to sand it down even more.

I'm just wondering if it's like that for any of you guys or is there no friction there?

http://www.airsoftcanada.com/attachm...1&d=1314220345http://www.airsoftcanada.com/attachm...1&d=1314220345

Id say your 2 problems are related.. the bolt is getting slowed as it approaches the feed ramp.. and so the bb has time to pop out of the mag and miss the chamber

Fix the bolt rubbing issue and I expect the bb Jams will go away

I'm wondering, on this picture, there is an opening on the metal part of the bolt, it should have a plastic piece in there, do you have it? Missing it could cause problem.

[QUOTE=Stealthee;1522298]Anyone have this problem where the BB keeps jamming right before the chamber? It happens when I charge the gun or when the gun cycles. This happens on all my mags and quite often too. I have to eject my mag and then pull the charging handle for the jammed BB to drop out and then reinsert the magazine to re-chamber the next round, but even then it sometimes jams again.

front part of the nozzle is rubbing on the the rubber piece of the magazine. I've sanded down that part on the nozzle and there's a bit of improvement, but the problem still occurs so I'll try to sand it down even more.

I'm just wondering if it's like that for any of you guys or is there no friction there?

http://www.airsoftcanada.com/attachm...1&d=1314220345

Oh no it's there, I was disassembling my bolt carrier when I took the picture.

Due to the lack of NPASs being available I thought I would try the o-ring thing on my open bolt 416. I found an o-ring the same diameter as the floating valve. I washed both the valve and the oring with brake kleen so there was no oil or silicone on them. With the nossle standing upright I put two drops of medium thickness CA glue on it and then placed the o-ring on and gave it a turn to evenly distribute the glue. After a five minute dry time I assembled everthing and gave it a try. Before the gun shot a solid 420 with .20 bbs. now with the o-ring in place it shoots 348 - 354. I will probably never buy another NPAS for my WE open bolts. Whoever came up with this tip needs to have a beer or two bought for him, it definitely does what it needs to.

Ive tried and owned both the open and closed both system for the WE M4. When the gun fires, sometimes gas is discharged from the ejection port. This reduces the gas efficiency and I hate to waste gas, especially when more is needed to cycle a steel bolt. Any remedies for this issue?

Gas coming out side of your piston? Probably worned out o-ring?

You mean the o ring at the back if the air nozzle that slides within the bolt? Naw, it's a perfectly new open bolt system. When the air nozzle begins to retract with the bolt, gas continues to be discharged from the magazine until the bolt retracts far enough to disengage the fire pin delay via the hammer. The same thing also happens with the AWSS closed bolt system with the air nozzle/NPAS