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-   -   WIP: Upgrading Your Tokyo Marui Glock (https://airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=140496)

MaybeStopCalling July 25th, 2014 01:30

300-400 rounds in with the modification. No cracking observed at all.

e-luder July 29th, 2014 10:00

You, my friend, have just found a fix to the problem.
Well done.

This is usually where th stock frame breaks if not sooner than 400rds.
Keep the expirement going til you break it (if at all)...

DesertF0x9 July 29th, 2014 23:47

anybody know where I can get a replacement Marui Glock 17 Hammer Housing? Mine Cracked.

MaybeStopCalling July 29th, 2014 23:49

@ELuder: We'll see how it goes. I've upgraded the pistol so wear should occur a higher rate.

@DesertF0x9: WGC Shop.

DesertF0x9 July 30th, 2014 01:24

only thing I was able to find was this, I don't typically like using clone internals as they never fit properly.

http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/...&view_choice=a

e-luder July 30th, 2014 11:19

That's a Glock 18c hammer mech. It wont work ona G17.
Check Tokyo Model Company. They might have some left...

DesertF0x9 July 30th, 2014 14:27

bummer TMC is sold out

MaybeStopCalling August 13th, 2014 21:07

Still no breaking. The gun is firing same as always. Two hundred more rounds in.

Mental musings: Would a dual recoil spring assembly reduce the damage done to a stock frame? The force would slightly increase overall, but the momentum of the slide hitting the frame would be reduced.

And why not? September 4th, 2014 02:53

1 Attachment(s)
Hey guys. I have a Tokyo Marui G17 Custom and I'm trying to get it work with the WE Custom Aluminium slide and outer barrel.

After some grinding to fit the outer barrel on the lower part of the body, I am now stuck with two problems.

First problem is, that when the slide is in a normal position (see the attachment), the slide lock button doesn't fall in its normal position. I have to pull back the slide for 1-2mm, than the slide lock button goes in its normal position, now however the slide is positioned 1-2mm behind it's normal position and does not want to move further forward.
Interesting thing here is that if I remove the recoil spring assembly, slide goes into its normal position just fine, so does the slide lock button, but I was so far unable to identify the place where the recoil spring assembly could block anything...

Nonetheless, even from that position slide goes back fine and replica fires normally. The second problem is that once the slide finishes it's cycle, the trigger remains soft - i.e. I can press it, but it does not release the hammer. If I cycle the slide manually, it works as expected - trigger is ready for another shot. Also, if I shoot with an empty mag (as in no BBs), and the slide gets stopped by a slide stop lever - once I release the lever, trigger functions normally.

I have tried the slide on a WE Glock and it works normally. I have also tried both original Marui hammer spring, and what looks like a 150% spring that came with the slide, tried with both Marui and WE mag, 9 bar and 12 bar gas, all with the same result. Currently I am out of ideas, so any advise or similar experience would be welcome!

MaybeStopCalling September 5th, 2014 00:50

WE and TM parts in theory are compatible, but in actuality are not due to variations in tolerances. I'd advise obtaining the correct slide for TM to avoid damaging your gun.

Quote:

Originally Posted by And why not? (Post 1909975)
Hey guys. I have a Tokyo Marui G17 Custom and I'm trying to get it work with the WE Custom Aluminium slide and outer barrel.

After some grinding to fit the outer barrel on the lower part of the body, I am now stuck with two problems.

First problem is, that when the slide is in a normal position (see the attachment), the slide lock button doesn't fall in its normal position. I have to pull back the slide for 1-2mm, than the slide lock button goes in its normal position, now however the slide is positioned 1-2mm behind it's normal position and does not want to move further forward.
Interesting thing here is that if I remove the recoil spring assembly, slide goes into its normal position just fine, so does the slide lock button, but I was so far unable to identify the place where the recoil spring assembly could block anything...

Nonetheless, even from that position slide goes back fine and replica fires normally. The second problem is that once the slide finishes it's cycle, the trigger remains soft - i.e. I can press it, but it does not release the hammer. If I cycle the slide manually, it works as expected - trigger is ready for another shot. Also, if I shoot with an empty mag (as in no BBs), and the slide gets stopped by a slide stop lever - once I release the lever, trigger functions normally.

I have tried the slide on a WE Glock and it works normally. I have also tried both original Marui hammer spring, and what looks like a 150% spring that came with the slide, tried with both Marui and WE mag, 9 bar and 12 bar gas, all with the same result. Currently I am out of ideas, so any advise or similar experience would be welcome!


And why not? September 5th, 2014 14:17

Bummer... I would not have purchased the item if it wouldn't be advertised as "for WE/ Marui Glock 17" :banghead:

e-luder September 7th, 2014 01:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by And why not? (Post 1909975)
Hey guys. I have a Tokyo Marui G17 Custom and I'm trying to get it work with the WE Custom Aluminium slide and outer barrel.

After some grinding to fit the outer barrel on the lower part of the body, I am now stuck with two problems.

First problem is, that when the slide is in a normal position (see the attachment), the slide lock button doesn't fall in its normal position. I have to pull back the slide for 1-2mm, than the slide lock button goes in its normal position, now however the slide is positioned 1-2mm behind it's normal position and does not want to move further forward.
Interesting thing here is that if I remove the recoil spring assembly, slide goes into its normal position just fine, so does the slide lock button, but I was so far unable to identify the place where the recoil spring assembly could block anything...

Nonetheless, even from that position slide goes back fine and replica fires normally. The second problem is that once the slide finishes it's cycle, the trigger remains soft - i.e. I can press it, but it does not release the hammer. If I cycle the slide manually, it works as expected - trigger is ready for another shot. Also, if I shoot with an empty mag (as in no BBs), and the slide gets stopped by a slide stop lever - once I release the lever, trigger functions normally.

I have tried the slide on a WE Glock and it works normally. I have also tried both original Marui hammer spring, and what looks like a 150% spring that came with the slide, tried with both Marui and WE mag, 9 bar and 12 bar gas, all with the same result. Currently I am out of ideas, so any advise or similar experience would be welcome!

The recoil spring guide isn't blocking anything.
It's the force of it pushing back that makes your slide lock not want to function properly.

All it takes is a few milimeters to misalign everything. If you're hop up unit moves even just a tiny bit when the recoil spring guide is installed, It will cause the issues you describe. Remember, the notch on the hop up unit where the slide lock "locks" on to is angled. So if that notch becomes more vertically aligned due to the recoil spring guide pushing on it, it will cause the issues you describe.

Or if the outerbarrel is horribly not up to Marui spec, the recoil spring guide will push on the hop up unit such that the hop up unit will "crimp" the slide lock out of position.

Judging from the fact that you're trying to run a WE kit to a Marui system, there are bound to be little mishaps like this. WE outerbarrels are slightly different from marui ones.

You're trigger...

You're trigger bar is probably not functioning properly.
This needs closer inspection on how it interacts with the sear and blowback unit.

I don't know since I can't see how it's functioning but I could venture a guess that it is blowback unit related since it can still function when you manually charge it....

Saoi September 24th, 2014 06:35

I recently picked up a Marui G17 and a Guarder frame, however when I swapped over to the new frame, I was noticing my slide was not returning to battery. I could push it back fine, but it seemed to begin hanging up about 3/4" out of battery. Releasing the slide would have it stop about 1/4" from battery.

I swapped back to the clearsoft frame, and the slide seems to cycle fine, but on the Guarder frame, it seems to run into friction problems. Is this a common occurence? Should I be sanding down the frame where the slide rests to get a better cycle? I did run a piece of paper between the slide on both frames, and there was definitely more resistance on the Guarder frame, which indicates some fitting may be required.

I did test fire a magazine through the gun, and this being my first experience with an airsoft gun, I think I'm hooked. I'm eyeballing a slide/barrel upgrade next. Thoughts on the Detonator kit? It looks like it might be the best, fit & finish wise. But that price... also, slides and barrels are kosher to order from outside of Canada, yes?


Quote:

Thought I'd edit this with my solution to the above problem, rather than removing this post. Turns out when screwing in the front frame screw, if it's screwed all the way in, it tightens the inner frame to the outer frame just enough (I mean fractions of fractions of a millimeter) that the slide gets caught between the outer frame and the slide rails, and the friction prevents it from returning to fully to battery. I solved it by backing off the front frame screw about a turn and a half or so. I imagine a stronger recoil spring, or filing the forward frame rail or slide rail would also work

MaybeStopCalling September 29th, 2014 01:54

With the reinforced frame, I've started moving towards exchanging all my magazines for the APS CO2 magazines. Testing using the APS magazine resulted in an 40 FPS boost on my pistol- The gun, using TM stock magazines, was doing 280. With the APS magazines, it's doing a solid 320, and I don't have to worry about running out of gas.

If the gun survives this... we're good to go.

phloudernow October 19th, 2014 02:47

So I am a bit of a pickle here, I recently did some big upgrades to my TM Glock 17, on Normal Stock TM Mags the gun shoots full auto like an 18C. but when i borrow my friends WE Glock mags they shoot fine. So I'm thinking if its something to do with high flow valves since the WE come stock with them. Note that I will only be listing the parts I have changed in the gun. With my previous parts my gun works completely fine.

Parts I recently Modified:

Guns Modify CNC BBU
Action 8MM bearing Hammer Set
Guarder 150% Hammer Spring
Ready Fighter SAI Flat Trigger Paired with WE trigger Bar (My stock TM trigger bar was Threadlocked to my Guns Modify Trigger)


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