i wonder what the strongest g19 ever made was..... and perhaps i should go back to my G23F i had as my very first AS pistol.... (that was a KSC/KWA though.....) damnit, you guys have my mind going in all sorts of directions, and hell, i havent added a SINGLE mod to my TM Detonics yet!

Since you have a G18 too, well dont install the guarder 150% spring until you get an alu slide...you will break your stock slide in no time. Just install the hammer spring

Get yourself a steel full auto seer

The steel mag catch is good if you are using extended mags regularly

The valve rocket is 21$ + 7$ shipping from Tokyo model, for gas efficiency and higher fps I think it is a must.

For tightbore, I am using the TK twist barrel and the accuracy is really good. Looks more for accuracy and consistency over power for your guns

If you to upgrade the piston head. Mind as well get the nozzle of the same brand. I went guarder for both.

If you plan on keeping the stock slide for a long time, the best recoil spring is the nineball with buffer. It works perfectly with my stock slide...

That Firefly valve is a hi-flow valve.
It has bigger holes for air to pass through.
Gas consumption will increase, not decrease.

If that's what you're going a regular Action floating valve is just as good.
In fact, I actually prefer it now since you don't have to assemble it.
THe Firefly one has a tendency to unscrew that top pointy piece and shoot out of the barrel. lol.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jagdalex (Post 1867338) Since you have a G18 too, well dont install the guarder 150% spring until you get an alu slide...you will break your stock slide in no time. Just install the hammer spring

A 150% recoil spring will actually dampen the slide impact on the charging stroke.

This is because a Plastic slide doesn't have enough weight for it to fully cycle the action to the fullest fullest extent of the slide travel. Thus less felt-recoil is the result.

On the return stroke, it will have a bit of a higher velocity but since the slide doesn't have a full travel, the return distance will be shorter. Thus the slide will not be at maximum velocity on the return stroke....

now about the bison burgers:

What you want to do is get a nice fresh cut of bison meat.
Cut it in pieces. and then put it in the grinder thing.

KEEP IT ICED AT ALL TIMES.

That's KEEP IT ICED AT ALL TIMES.

Oh and...

Keep it iced at all times.

Next sprinkle some fresh ground peppers, some salt, and a bit of vinegar.

Then make your patties....
Use your hands.. and not some obscure hand tool.

I *LOVE* the KSC G19.

I used to have one. She fired so well. It had one of the most satisfying slide action I have ever had in a pistol. So Smooth.

IT was almost as good as my homemade bison burgers. But not really. Nothing tops my burgers.

It was strong too. THe KSC Frames are remarkably indestructible.

Can't say much for the G23f though. I hated that thing. lol.
IT was stupidly easy to break. Especially the hammer mech.

THis is how they looked:

http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...er/df/G192.jpg
http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...hotocopy14.jpg
http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...hotocopy16.jpg

DO a Detonics build.
Not many have them. It'd be quite a unique piece.

I once used the firefly floating valve as well, and I was chronying my gun, I took a shot and the fps went up to 700fps and I heard a loud "clank" inside the chrony next to my muzzle. I realized that the conical part of the firefly rocket valve shot right out of the inner barrel at 700fps when I was chronying the gun :(

It happened to you to?
LOL.

Mine shot out and it got stuck on the dry wall...

Also...
bison burgers...

Okay, what is this about bison burgers and cooking them?? Do you really eat them?

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...ok_t/Bison.jpg

BTW, i mailed out the thing today for you

YES!

Many thanks. I owe you one, T.

http://www.sunrisefoods.com/store/me...f/Bison-burger

I was down in Manitoba for the weekend doing a news item on bison burgers.
Man. It's like a New Year's eve party in New York....but in your mouth!

I made a large batch last night. Put some on the grill in at midnight in -24 weather.
Fuck they're tasty...

Do they taste like beef? Gamey? I can see you have a lil obsession with bison burgers....:eek:

https://i.imgur.com/wp2nkRb.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/tf0WTPT.jpg

Humm well I am confused...because in your guide you mentionned that the Firefly valve was giving better effeciency, better durability and more power... so from my understanding...more effecient would mean less gas wasted...and you are now saying that I will spend more gas :-\ there is probably something that I am missing.

For the conical parts flying...strange you guys mentionned that is flying left and right but in your guide that it was by far the best floating valve...I was thinking about putting locktite on it anyways.

Regarding the stock slide with the 150% recoil spring...well for me after 2 extended mags in burst...the stock slide cracked and front post screw too (even with Jb weld) :-\ Bought the nineball recoil with another stock slide and never had any prob with a cracked slide after...

Sorry my post above was worded differently. I meant to say Gas EFFICIENCY.

There is a difference between gas efficiency and gas consumption.

Gas efficiency is exactly as you described. Less gas wasted (in specific terms). In broader terms, it HOW the gas is USED in your gun. Meaning maximizing every single ounce of gas that the magazine expels.

Gas consumption means...gas consumption. That is, the volume of gas that is actually expelled out of the magazine to cycle the action. It's like a unit of measurement, really.

The Firefly floating valve, IMHO, is EFFICIENT at delivering gas where it needs to go. THe holes allow are widened allowing more free-flow room for air to pass through towards the BB.

A floating valve with wider holes has the POTENTIAL to increase FPS. BUT only by a few ticks.

It's also lightweight. Unlike some of the brass floating valves on the market, a lightweight floating valve will be easier to close. Once the valve closes, the rest of the gas can be used for the slide action. Increasing the time it takes to close that valve also means increasing the time gas is expelled from the magazine. UNTIL the slide action trips the firing pin disconnector, gas will continue to expel. THe design of the floating valve (weight, holes, everything) combined with the strength of its subsequent floating valve spring controls this "time variable".

Apart from the cone unscrewing itself, I still regard it as one of the better floating valves out there that are available because of these characteristics.

...and don't worry. It only happened once. Because I didn't tighten it properly.

Thanks for the thorough explanation ;-)