I measured the stock one to be about 5mm. It was just with a ruler, so not very precise. Is that correct?

so it turns out that the open bolt destroys part 27 on the scar. Anyone have any reinforcement tips?

Are you sure it is Part 27, the hinge frame or Part 66, the hinge plate?

hinge frame. it's made of white metal. I've called three cnc shops. They won't make the part for any less than 800 dollars.

Yup just like m102404 said, the plastic is to push the nozel forward, if its break the maybe it's too much forward for the nozel, for me, I change the plastic wit two stack of small oring until the same lenght and diameter so, if had a bb jammed its not damage the nozel directly because the impact is absorb by the oring rubber.

Ok so Ive read every page on this topic, and i checked gasguns.com.. There is only 1 person on ASC (Eeyore) and one topic on gasguns.com (http://gasguns.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=4178) that has experienced this problem..

My WE M4 shoots full auto on SEMI. I know that Tyson posted up a pic of the full auto sear (part 48) and mine is installed correctly like the picture. When the gun is placed on SEMI, the full auto sear is completely vertical, but if its on AUTO, the sear is angled around 15 degrees backwards... Im pretty sure this is normal. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks

I'm gonna chech my selector against a new one thats sitting in a complete trigger assembly, maybe its worn.

Either the little knob on the selector is worn (on semi) or the sear is off level, or the trigger is off level, the trigger being off level will not allow it to catch the hammer completely when it is still depressed after one shot, causing it to auto fire on semi. Turok, I'll take a look at your gun later this week when I get back.

I had this exact issue with my SCAR. There's a couple possible issues... lip on the front of the trigger is too worn down to hold the hammer when the disconnector lets go of it, which can be a result from the hammer being reinforced but not the trigger. Replace and/or upgrade the trigger, and problem goes away. Second thing it could be is the disconnector hook IN the trigger is worn down and not holding onto the hammer... which means the automatic fire isn't interrupted (disconnected), and it'll keep firing. Again, typically a result of a reinforced hammer but not a reinforced disconnector. Replace the disconnector, and issue goes away.

Basically, the full-auto sear takes the place of the disconnector, but can operate faster, and is triggered by the bolt returning home, not the trigger returning. When in full, the disconnector is moved out of the path of the hammer by the knob on the bottom of the selector.

When in semi-auto, only the trigger, hammer, and disconnector are in use... so if any of the contact surfaces are worn down too much, the cycle will keep going until the trigger is released and the main body of the trigger can stop the hammer.

I find a lot of people will upgrade the hammer because it gets the most of the force, the bolt hits it hard every cycle. But now there's a hardness difference between the contacting pieces and the hammer. When it's all stock, it's all the same metal, and there's no issue. If it's all reinforced (and by the same company, can't guarantee same material if different companies), then also no issue. But if they're different materials, something is going to wear down.

Therefore, you likely need a new trigger and/or disconnector, from the same company your hammer is from, and your issue should disappear.

If there hasn't been any sort of damage to the trigger assembly frame (how that would happen, i don't know), then nothing should ever be "off-level", because the pins that the parts rotate around will be in the same spots. The selector being worn may cause different angles of the disconnector and the full-auto sear, but since it doesn't get any sort of impact, it's not likely the selector is worn.

It's a brand new mechbox tho, by RATech.

the whole trigger assembly? or certain internals?

check the trigger shape, especially the secondary angle on the front top lip.

Everytime I order a new cnc trigger from RA tech for my we scar they always send me the we m4 one. The we m4 one is too small and doesn't work. Has anyone ordered just a trigger and had no problems?

can i fit this "RA-Tech N.P.A.S. Kit w/ Stainless Rod Set for WE SCAR GBB" into my WE HK416, i'm pretty sure that the answer is yes, but to just make sure.

i've never seen a reinforced trigger for the scar... ever. Apparently the stock ones are considered good enough to handle the punishment. I had to downgrade my triggerset because it had a reinforced hammer. I had to get replacement stock parts. The open bolt kit comes with a brand new trigger assembly, everything except the little L-shaped part that holds the auto-sear rod in place when in the lower frame, and the selector. Whole kit is around $75 direct from RA-Tech.