i am sorry i did not mention that i have a DRS from the factory (all my questions are almost ALWAYS based solely on a G26/G27 as i like subcompacts (see my sig), and of course have upgraded it to a Guarder Stainless/Brass guide rod assembly, and have a polished factory unit as well. i just took this pic to illustrate (i'm terribly visual as a whole, so sorry for all the pics.)
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...10/photo-4.jpg
my question was based on an idea of slide return: i don't so much care about the strength of the front screw post on the frame, nor am i using anything for competition of any sort. i simply plink, and build these for my son. he loves them, and i love tinkering: win win if you ask me!
back to the reason for my question: i LOVE a HARD HITTING slide as it returns to battery. Having owned many a RS (G26, G27, PPS 9mm, PT111 Mil Pro 3rd gen, XD sub compact 9, Hi Point C9, SR9c, etc) one of my all time favorite features of a side arm is the positive, heavy THUD of a slide returning into battery after loading, releasing the slide lock, etc.
now, that does certainly add an amount of vanity to my firearm experience, but the real reason is the forward motion of a slide can actually cause a person to drop a pistol easily, as the natural purchase on said pistol is less monitored by (let's just say, a 10 yr old child learning proper firearm control and safety) the user as recoil is absorbed by a stronger hold on the grip. (i hope this makes sense)
with all that being said, i would like this pistol to INCREASE the forward "COIL" (if RE- Coil is backward movement, i'll use COIL as forward... makes sense to me lol) thus my asking.
The return can only be increased with a stronger spring and heavier slides.
Mass is a big factor when thinking about increasing FELT-recoil.
When dealing with the return, in airsoft terms, increasing the tension of the recoil spring will give you a nice, crisp, high velocity return stroke. If you couple this with a heavier slide set up, you can get a very satisfying "thud" when the slide comes to a halt on the return.
However, if you're slide is too light, a strong spring will dampen the rearward stroke and you won't feel as much on the return (according to Newton's Laws of Motion. The third one if I remember correctly).
I don't think a DRS is ideal for this in the airsoft world considering slides are pretty light to begin with. Especially, if either one of those springs are strong-tensioned spring.
Well, even if both springs were weak and they coiled all the way on the rear stroke, both springs would take up a lot of room on the already shortened recoil rod that it will 1). short stroke the gun and 2). will not provide enough slide travel to maximize the velocity on the return stroke.
Soooo, I think a single spring set up with greater mass slide will get you a good thump on the return stroke....
wonderful. i have the piston head with O-Ring installed you speak of, of course i still have the stock, and guarder versions of the "cup" as well. (these seam to have WAY too narrow a diameter to properly seal the Airsoft Surgeon loading nozzle/BBU. so i never use the stock cup.)
what intrigues me is the length of the head on the G17 aluminum piston position. see the RED section here....
http://img.redwolfairsoft.com/upload.../GM0045-2L.jpg
now, this to me fills the rear of the BBH better than what the G26 uses, in turn leaving less OPEN space, and therefore no room for air to go aside from FORWARD to the BB, as well as pushing the BBH (and therefore slide) back with more force. in theory, this could increase not only FPS, but also felt recoil and coil as mentioned above. another win win if my theory is correct.
That section of the BBU is solely meant for use as a guiding system for the loading muzzle when it's moving around in the BBU. It stabilizes it's travel so that the piston head doesn't have a dual job description (stabilizing and sealing).
The piston head is what seal air inside the BBU.
That red section in your link is NOT the piston. Those G-modify BBUs don't come with one. lol.
A better sealing piston head could improve your felt recoil. Yes, I agree. But it won't improve your FPS.
Once gas escapes from the mag, it's funnelled to the BB via the floating valve. At which point, the BB is "blown" out of the barrel. At some point during the BB's travel to exit the barrel, the negative air (or suction) closes the floating valve and whatever gas is left spewing from the magazine is used for the slide action. THis is when the piston shines.
Once the slide begins it's travel, it will trip the firing pin disconnect lever and release the firing pin from the magazine valve stopping the flow of air. Once the slide stops, all that air that is remaining inside the loading muzzle will vent out the way it came from, which is the air intake hole at the bottom. THis is of course you have a piston that absolutely doesn't let a air pass through. lol.
I dunno why I wrote that. I'm just too hungry.
oh, one more thing that JUST HAPPENED....
i was lucky enough to get my slide stuck on the frame. yeah, it appears the hammer/sear are in the upright position, making the slide stuck on. this just occurred as i was taking the photo above.
so now i have to figure out what really made this happen, get it apart, and fix the issue. all this for a darn pic. FML.
THis issue is usually a sign of the bump on the blowback unit being too worn such that it can not push the hammer far enough to interface and make love and kiss and hug and undress the sear
I would check if that bump is still ok. Also, if you're in the mood, I would check to see if your sear/hammer is still able to make love (ahem) or lock unto each other. 