How easy is it to swap back and forth between spring and HPA on a VSR, does anyone know?

If you don't remove the gas line on the stock, it's no longer than swapping a cylinder, so a 10 minutes jobs.

I'll run the Wraith system so 12G CO2 canister into the stock so no line ;)

I've read on several pages that AA was the thing right now compare to PDI and everything on the market. I know Airsoft Pro was a no-no with HPA due to proprietary cylinder head. Worst case, I'm really good at swearing.

Like Drakker said, it's not a big deal. The only difference is it work better with a stock trigger assembly. The trigger pull is ridiculous, about 2mm. Only time will tell if I made a good decision or not. But the good decision I made is the one I won't install it

With CO2 you won't get the benefit of HPA. CO2 is not super stable and power will vary form shot to shot and from a new canister to an almost empty canister.

The AA chamber fixes the side hop problem people are getting with the two piece TM or JG chambers when using very heavy BBs. But there are easier ways to fix the side hop, all you need is a better hop-up arm and to shim it well if required. I have the Dangerwerx arm and no shimming was required in the TM chamber, it fits perfectly. The stock plastic arm can bend and cause side-hop, but a good quality metal arm will not. That is all you need really. Then you get all the advantages of the stock chamber, first you don't need to remove the magazine and fiddle with an Allen key to adjust hop. Second, the two pieces chamber makes it extremely easy to align your bucking perfectly. Third, it's TM, the tolerances are amazing, and its quite durable.

AA V-trigger clone have some fitting ussues =/
The spring guide stopper doesnT' fit in the cylinder. You have to dremel the window a bit. And some player experienced an other problem. The stopper stuck in the cylinder end (the pieces inside splitted in half)
Here is a video of the problem and how to fix it : http://2shots1kill.com/action-army-z...ation-problem/

As for the Hop-up Chambre and bucking, get the Action Army, or keep the stock one!
I use the stock Hop-Up Tokyo Marui Unit for 7 years now, never had any problem! Nicel grouping at 200-250 feet. But you need to work on it a bit to have the best result =/

DangerWerx and the other upgraded Arm/lever solve the right curve problem
( I still have some DangerWerx High Engagement lever if you need one ;p)
And as Drakker said, you may need to shim a bit and unit dental floss / teflon tape to improve sealing on the rubber!

Never used the new Maple Leaf rubber. But the old Nineball Purple, Modify Tan, PDI W-Hold et Firefly hard give very good result and consistance once breaked.

Yah, the Wraith require a Inline adapter for pressure made to accommodate that. It's designed to keep it stabilized unless going full-retard but it's kinda difficult with bolt action. I've read and watch before going into that process.

Indeed, I'm sure it could do a better job but for now, it's here and gonna give it a shot. It also say it take VSR/GBB type bucking in the product, not AEG. I'll see it and give you an update when it's in the process of installation. It could have changed after bad result but you're way more aware then me.

My bad, it does take VSR/GBB buckings. It turns out its possible to use AEG barrels in them with slight modifications to VSR buckings, not using AEG buckings, I had it reversed.

I'm going to stick with springer for now, though I may do an HPA setup later, but it'll likely be an a different platform altogether. I'm looking into the Classic Army M24 or something like that and use a CO2 cartridge setup. So here's a question then; Mancraft Sdik or Wolverine bolt? Reviews online are split down the middle. Sdik is a fully mechanical unit versus Wolverine's bolt, which has a solenoid requiring a battery, also the Mancraft is much cheaper, but the Wolverine is supposedly a little better in the overall consistency. Has anyone else researched this?


Back into springers. Well, even though opinions vary on the Action Army hop being good or bad, both sides agree that the stock hop modified is fantastic, so I think that answers that question.

I'm going with the V-trigger over the zero. It has a slightly harder pull, but seems to be better liked overall.

Cylinder sets on the other hand, it seems to be PDI, but which one? Drakker says not the VC set, so HD? Can you just swap out nozzles to get one that'll accept sorbo or must you modify the PDI one?

Barrel is gonna be a Prommy 430mm, stainless 6.03. I think I will attempt an R-hop.

I'm going for about 450 FPS (on 0.20g) or slightly less, so which spring will get me there? Brand, type and power recommendations would be great.

Are the TM mags best or after markets?

If you plan to use an air brake, you need the VC piston, its the only one where you can screw one in. If you don't plan to use an air brake, then the HD kit is better because it has better FPS consistency.

If you want to use a sorbo in a PDI kit, you will need to modify the cylinder head. As far as I know, no other cylinder head will fit (I tried KA, AA and Well but none would fit). You might want to try your luck with other brands, but it seems like risky business to me. ;)

I've read somewhere of people using custom thin sorboes to replace the o-rings, but I have doubts about the durability of a really thin sorbo pad.

My favorite mags are the red fires. They are incredibly cheap and they have a longer arm to push BBs, that arm protrudes out of the mag and blocks the cylinder when its empty. No more dry fire at the worst of times.

http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwol...for_VSR_10.htm

I can put an air brake on an hd piston no problem. The vc system isnt really worth it, its just easier to airbrake. I had a vc on the vsr and left a hole in the airbrake so the vc would still work. On the M24 i didnt leave a hole to prototype the first air brake, but I found it made no difference in the bolt pull anywah, so im just not using the vc system at all.
And you shouldnt even need a sorbo after i airbrake it

Well, I do want an air-brake, so I guess VC it is. I wonder why the inconsistency?

What about spring? 450-ish on 0.20g is the goal.

What round weight does everyone use?

Get a spring for 470 and 500 cause between possible joule creep and the air brake, ill tune it into 450

And .36s at 2j, .43 work too but i like .36s

I didn't know you made them yourself. Any chance you could make one of those airbrakes and ship it? I have a VC piston, I don't need to keep the VC system, it can be sealed.

Yeah I can send you my old one, I need a longer one and a stronger spring to do some muzzle energy tuning

It's strange how all the online info, videos, etc, are about removing an air-brake and not how to create one.