remove base plate...flick/slide it out with a screwdriver

unscrew little + screw that holds the shell to the mag

push mag out from the bottom.

Only with the mags I've dropped on ground where the bottom had gotten banged up did I find it hard to get the base plate off.

I got it out in the end. Had to use a hammer and screwdriver butt to "gently" tap it out haha... Once it was half way out it was easy to pull it all out. Soaking o-ring in silicone oil now....will get back to it later tonite.

To install a new valve knocker you need to remove the old one obviously.

- remove the two + screws that hold the knocker cover plate. This is the plate that is right infront of the hammer.
- cock the hammer back so you can get a good look, and so that the knocker is retracted
- lift the plate straight up out of the trigger mech
- the knocker might pop out...or you might have to wiggle it around
- there's a little spring that sits under the knocker....it has a little plastic guide rod on it...don't lose them. While it's out, take a look at how it sits in under the knocker...pretty simple.
---swap your parts...make sure that it's working/moving smoothly.
---it's kind of fiddly to get the little spring back under the knocker...I find that if I slide the knocker on and use a small screwdriver/rod to push the spring in under it...it usually goes in ok.

To remove the knocker delay/Part #66...you need to remove the trigger assembly.

(this is roughly from memory on the M4...so it might be off here or there...but it should give you the jist of it).
- turn the rifle over so the pistol grip is facing up...remove the grip...don't loose the spring or the pin....note where the pin goes into the receiver...it notches into the selector lever
- turn the rifle back over....wiggle/rotate/pull the selector from the gun
- push out 1 cross pin that holds the mech to the receiver (some of the pins are fake...so don't wail away on those...LOL).
- take out the 2 + screws that hold the mech in the receiver
- lift the mech out. Note the orientation and position of part #66 and the little spring under it.
---reverse procedure to replace.

* it might be easier to replace the knocker while the mech is out of the receiver and part #66 is out. Depends on what you need to do.

* when you're putting it together, make sure the Full Auto "paddle" is in the correct orientation...see pic a couple of posts ago.

I've just ordered a AWSS M4A1 and I just felt that I should thank all of you for compiling all this information in one spot, I hope to be able to provide information for others at some point!

Finally
 

I just got mine going, after waiting for internal goodies to show up.

I used some Tetra-gas, BB-Bastard .28s, NPAS full open, and holy f--k!. Like was said elsewhere, "This thing IS a nail-driver. My buddy said, "See if it will break this bottle of beer"? First attempt...BLAM. Beer everywhere. :)

My question: About how many seconds should I fill the mags with Tetra gas? Same question for Propane, unless it's the same. I did 8-seconds, using what I do to me pistol as a referance, but it seemed like not enough. I plan on using Propane, but used Tetra because I have some lying around.

keep going till you dont hear anymore gas going in, you cant overfill it

for my 1 sec count....a TM Hicapa mag is about 10sec...a WE mag is about 14-15sec. It'll spurt when it's full.

WE mags have the silent fill valves, only TM mags spurt when they fill

Do lots of you guys have trouble with the mags? I just got 4 C02 mags m4/scar and 3 of them leaked out of the box from the valve at the top. I also found that they cool down way too fast couldn't even get through a mag on semi at an ambient temp of +21. I'm very disappointed with them.

I stick to gas mags cuz I'm afraid of destroying my gun, lol.
I have had some leak problems, so all I did was take the valve out, oil it and put it back in. It has solve the problem so far, but I'm not sure if CO2 mags work differently.

Can't comment on the CO2 mags sorry...just haven't seen the need for them.

Re. the fill valves...I've swapped all mine to Madbull SS fill valves (for grenades) 'cause the stock ones were crap.

Tys

The mags have similar release valves but with slight differences, don't know how to get them out though. The CO2 mag then has 2 openings just below the release valve that you can open up, each with an O ring to seal them and those reveal 2 chambers making the gas go in what looks like an S shape pattern before it gets to the final release valve. I definitely like my gas mag more wish I had gotten more gas mags instead.

Hi guyz i just got my we m4 with clear lower receiver do you guyz know which version is it and where can i get parts for my gun online or in markham area thx and i want the change the front rail like the s system one which brand will fit my gun too?

I've done a google on this but it keeps coming up with info on the gun and retail pages for the gun, none of which answer the question.

Is it possible to get the longer barrel for the WETTI SCAR? I know for the AEG all my brother had to do was flip the "switch" pull out his barrel and he'd be able to drop in the longer one, but what's the availability of barrels for the WETTI SCAR and where if at all can I get a longer one?

Try airsoft buddy. I'm 90+% sure the M4 and the SCAR take the same types of barrels (i.e. the cuts/notches and attachment to the chamber are the same)....I'm not 100% only because I haven't actually done it myself.

262mm
http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_ep...roducts_id=479

363mm
http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_ep...roducts_id=478

505mm
http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_ep...roducts_id=480

Haven't picked it up yet, but my hopup rubbers and 363 barrel came in last week.