Partially finished my build.

Still need a G&P lower I can strip down and engrave.

Attachment 35943
So far:
G&P AN-PAQ 4-C
Diemaco BUIS
Diemaco TRI-AD
Colt Canada C8 slim hand-guards (need to paint OD)
G&P raider grip
G&P woc steel upgrade kit
Steel outer barrel with AEG front end (Diemaco L119A1) vltor flashhider....need an a2
TM AEG Stock (used this because there is no wabble at all)
Saber L119A1 body
G&P Triangle sight and gas tube
G&P delta ring
Madbull ambi charging handle latch (can't get a real one)
Ambi selector

More to come on this build, I have another upper with the Diemaco trades that I'm using for a C7 upper, once I get a lower I can strip and engrave, I'll be swapping the lowers on this thing and finishing the L119A1 to accuracy.

Overall, this was fun....my very first GBBR Scratch build and With the exception of a couple deep detent holes that needed filing and a very problematic spring, It was fairly easy.

One thing I discovered during this build is that there must be a graveyard of lowers with broken trigger guard tabs......I had to file out the holes to prevent breaking my second set (broke them on my other L119A1 kit) and ease the pin into place.


Fuck...so I can't add more than one picture.....nice

What's your threading? I have a old A2 flash hider I'm willing to contribute to your project if you cover shipping.

Also, those lower tabs are the bane of just about everybody... there's a bunch of threads on RS forums from guys who've broken their actual lowers by not supporting the tabs or forcing them recklessly.

I turn the flashhider ccw to thread it on.

Attachment 35981

Okay, it's yours if you want it. PM me.

Thanks! I'll get back on that, have an A2 I'm looking into.

Attachment 36038

Are you building a C-7A2? Or C-8A2? How close are you trying to get it to the originals? I could provide some insight for authenticity.

BTW it's looking really good so far!

Right now I'm trying to source a few other parts.
I've been working on this for about a year and a half lol.
The build upon completion wil be:


L119A1 lower with vltor clubfoot stock and change the raider grip to something like the umbrella corp ergo grip.
CQB upper with suppressor as a barrel extension. This will be my indoor one.

C8 FTHB lower ( engraved with proper trades, the ones above the trigger, the S, R, AUTO. )
Diemaco flat top heavy barrel upper (in pictures) with trades on barrel and upper.

C7A1 lower (engraved like above)
Diemaco flat top upper with full length OD handguards.

I'm not usually a fan of minimalism, but damn, TC; that thing sure is purdy "). Where'd you source the trades? I have a shop to do the engraving but haven't been able to find more than bits and pieces on google images:s

Thanks, I should have had at least the paq on there lol

I have to dig it back up when I get my stripped lowers but it's a file for CNC. I saw that Imperial does good engravings. I need engraved though, not just aluminum oxide deep.

I bought a few water decals for C7 and C8 a while back I may not end up using.

So my M3X long version came along with my tester mag. Thank you VA!
So far, this thing has more recoil than my WETTI SCAR, it cycles great.

For anyone who buys the sabre l119a1 body from huang, after a bit of filing, I found no major issues but the buffer tube fit.


What is everyone's opinion of authenticity of what people call their rifles?

Example: if I take an m16 with colt trades and paint the furniture green, how is that a C7? If I paint my M4 furniture green, maybe add a folding grip, how does that make it a C8?

I struggle to find parts to build an authentic replica of a certain firearm but that's me.

Comments?

For me, it's all about the minor differences, and how close you get to them. If it requires a suspension of belief every time you look at it, then it's not a replica. I tend to look at the barrel... The barrel is the one constant despite how modified C7/C8s can get. At the end of the day... the C7/C8s are just minor variations on the AR-15.

Painted furniture, added M3X and PAQ-4C

Attachment 36514