Hey guys,

I need some wisdom here :)

I like my gun with precision. So, what is the best barrel/hop-up configuration available out there for the SCAR?

My original set-up is very erratic.

Thanks for the help and sorry for the noob question. :)

Not a n00b question - the system has some accuracy problems out of the box.

Here's what's helped me:

- Heavy BBs (.28g BBs or .3g)
- A shitload of rounds through the hopup (1000+)
- I had the older "green" hopup rubber, and I switched it to the "new" black one - saw good results

Also, there are some people on the gasguns.info community who are making alternatives (one in particular uses an AEG hopup and inner-barrel). These alternatives may be available shortly, I'm trying to get the manufacturer to send me one for testing (he's having FPS issues).

I'll be writing an article on it at 6mm-mag.com whenever I can finish the review I promised to Jeff Baker on the KJW MEU... LOL (it's been over 2 months... geez!)

hey, ill write the article on the new AEG hopup if you are too busy :cool:

Don't you think I've forgotten!!!!


:p

LOL. I know! I know! So many things going on at once, I asked a friend to help me with it - but he hasn't had any time either...



On-topic though, now that a few of you have tried your home-made BCG dampeners for a while - how have they been holding up?

whats BCG

I'm guessing bolt carrier something

Yeah - Bolt Carrier Group

7 mags. CO2. so far so good :)

Hmmm, where to find WE magazine feed lips.. Except from Evike... :(

Edit: found one at thewarstore

Im very dissappointed by the RA tech nozzle, i got my gun up and running again, and not even finished one mag of dry fire and the nozzle is completely crushed
should i send it back to RA tech? or just move the adjustable valve into my better condition stock nozzle?

Pics? how can that even happen.

like tysons pics from earlier in the thread

If it was just dryfiring and no BBs at all then it's likely that one (or a combination) of following things happened:
1. The lip of the nozzle seal was catching the edge of the cylinder when it went from fully retracted to moving forward
2. The overall collapsed length of the nozzle/piston body was too long...and it basically smushed itself.
3. The strength of the nozzle body was compromised by either machining the gas inlet slots too large (not leaving enough support) or its rigidity was compromised by improper heat tempering.

You should be able to just drop that floating valve into a different nozzle. Take care that you either clip the little cross-section of the spring off of the old nozzle or use the nozzle from the kit which differs from the stock one in that the cross-bar part of it has been clipped off already.

I smushed one too...from using too much heat to break the loctite and repeated jamming when I was goofing around with testing. Pics on page two of this thread.


Noob....where's your spacer in the bottom assembly? Is that how it was as pulled from the gun? Or just thrown together re-assembled for the pic?

good question... i dont know where it went, i thought i had it, maybe i didnt put it on when i changed nozzles, amybe it cracked and broke off? would that damage it? is it important?



I didnt use heat to break the locktite to get the stock nozzle apart, instead I used a drill, drilled out the center of the brass so that just the 4 corners remained and htey popped right off, kinda destructive, but effective