Wow that Guarder part has been OOS forever....

Maybe more of their stuff will come back, I think they are going to release new version of their steel slide for the Glock 26 soon, I am hoping for frames this time around also..

Turns out it's still out of stock. DEN emailed me after I put in my order. D'oh :(

Hey e-luder

Should I use .25s or .20s in my g18?

Also, do you know where I can get a front sight post xD

Also, do I need to put O-rings in my magazines fill valve?

I'm not surprised. That item has been discontinued for a long while now....

Depends on the muzzle velocity of your gun and where you play.

My general rule of thumb is to run with 20's for a gun that shoots at around 300-310 fps. Then 23's at 315-350 FPS and 25's at 350FPS and above and so on and so on.

But for my purposes, I always use 23s after everything has been done.

Remember that a lighter projectile will have a harder time contending with the primal forces (ie. wind). Whereas the heavier ones will have better accuracy but will come out of the barrel at a slower FPS rate. Still the same muzzle energy but difference velocities.

It's a personal preference when it comes down to it. Some guys here swear by 23s, other guys swear by 28s and 25s. And others just use 20s to show off a high FPS output on their gun....

[quote]Also, do you know where I can get a front sight post xD/QUOTE]

Just buy the 5ku ones or something cheap and paint the front sight white. They are like $10USD for the whole front and rear sight. The sight that I was looking at just said it was out of stock.

It's your choice. I like having no o-ring in my fill valves.

[quote=e-luder;1736245]I'm not surprised. That item has been discontinued for a long while now....



Depends on the muzzle velocity of your gun and where you play.

My general rule of thumb is to run with 20's for a gun that shoots at around 300-310 fps. Then 23's at 315-350 FPS and 25's at 350FPS and above and so on and so on.

But for my purposes, I always use 23s after everything has been done.

Remember that a lighter projectile will have a harder time contending with the primal forces (ie. wind). Whereas the heavier ones will have better accuracy but will come out of the barrel at a slower FPS rate. Still the same muzzle energy but difference velocities.

It's a personal preference when it comes down to it. Some guys here swear by 23s, other guys swear by 28s and 25s. And others just use 20s to show off a high FPS output on their gun....

Thank you for all of that. I just got alot of parts for my gun the other day including a guarder lower frame and I was wondering if I should JB weld that front post thingy. No luck finding silicon oil or superlube in any local stores so I guess I could order it, can you suggest any specific brand?

No superlube but they had this, will it work?
http://imgur.com/P5Qj1
http://imgur.com/jcJP3

I always JB weld that post before installation. The Guarder Frames are stronger than the stock ones but they are not invincible. THey will crack and break sooner or later.

When they do crack, the usually crack at the base of the post and not around. This is because of the brass screw casing that come pre-installed.

So what I do is cement the casing in JB Weld. You'll notice that there is a large recess on top of the trigger guard on the innards of the frame. Fill that void with JB Weld.

Like this:

http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...hotocopy-3.jpg

My Guarder frame has yet to show signs of wareage from this mod but then again, I don't use this specific Glock all that often...


I use the white lithium grease on my guns of the same brand if I can't find superlube.

This one here:
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80345.../dp/B000HBNV58

The debate on whether or not white lithium damages seals and o-rings rages on in different airsoft forums. Some swear by it, others hate it. SOme play it safe with silicone and others say silicone is too light.

But from my personal experience, there hasn't been any damages on any plastic and rubber components on any of my guns incurred from the use of white lithium grease. And I've been using it for a while now...

I personally dont like using the white lithimum for long periods of time. IE guns that are a massive pain to put back together. I have bought guns that have had the white lithium get all chalky and hardened up. It wasnt too fun cleaning that mess up. But if thats all that is around then its perfectly fine.

http://www.gadgetplus.ca/images/prod...icWave_LG3.jpg
http://www.gadgetplus.ca/jewelry/SonicWave.html#pic


This thing works wonders!!!!!!!!!
:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D

Holllyyy crappp. Why am I learning about this now?? Great now I have another present to buy myself for xmas :D

So long paper towel and q tips!

Thanks for that, I'm gonna buy some JB Weld tomorrow.

Also,

1.Can I use a real steel front sight on the g18 somehow?

2. How do I reassemble the hammer housing?

Well the outside is almost there. A bit of dehorning and some new sights and I can move to the inside.

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...5946759478.jpg

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...5946722260.jpg

zomgz.... *drool*

As RacingManiac stated in previous posts, the front sight will need modifications if you are trying to mount a Real Glock one.

THere are scores of youtube vidoes out there. I would make one but the file is is huge and won't upload properly.....

Anyways, here's a great one for you...

marui glock 18c hammer spring upgrade for green gas. - YouTube

That build is so sexy.....
Now you need this to match the outer-barrel. Though IMO the gold trigger is a bit off shade and cheaper looking that the Salient Arms OB.

http://www.wgcshop.com/WGC_Shop/imag..._cnsstbk_l.jpg

Well...
That pic is kinda misleading. The safety is more gold than yellow in real life. But it's a damn good trigger.....

It's on the list for sure.