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TM armalite barrel wobble cure

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Old March 13th, 2005, 18:33   #1
vondnik
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TM armalite barrel wobble cure

NO metal bodies or aftermarkets parts are needed or neccessary only TM stock parts and a help from Canadian tire.

Alright I've grown tired of everyone stating that the only thing to get rid of barrel wobble is to upgrade to a metal body or add a one piece outer barrel.
Ok well the gun i used in the how-to guide has a HURRICANE metal body and the stock tm RIS front section. The wobble deviation is at least 10 degres on each side. More than anought to fuck up the hopup system.

You will need a few tools and supplies to do this and have to know how to dissasemble the front section of your gun. If your not to inclined to do it well you can either send the gun to me or ask someone else that is willing to try it out to do it for you. I usualy charge around 30$(for stock TM) or 40$ ( aftermarket metal bodies or front sections) to do this mod. If the gun has to be shipped well then the cost is all yours.

The guilty one...



Now lets go over what you need to make this little mod. A trip to canadian tire will be needed unless your basement looks like mine...

Power tools:
A drill of some sort. I use a press drill but a hand drill will work the same
A belt sander or dremel tool

Hand tools
a vice
a centering punch ( a nail and a hammer will do) or centering drill
A drill bit (use the correct size for the threads you are going to use)
8 set screws (headless pressure screws)
A tap
A larger drill bit ( size is irrelevent)

Exemple : I use 10-32 unf set screws so I use a no 21 drill bit and a 10-32 unf tap. The personnel at canadian tire or Home depot will help you select what you need.

As of now i will be using the info given in the exemple as reference for drill size and what not.




Ok now take your front section appart until you reach these two parts. Basicaly the froward assy with the front sight and the chamber block.



WHEN DRILLING ALWAYS USE A VICE TO HOLD YOUR WORK PART

Ok first using the no 21 drill you need to oversize the two holes that are already present on the top of the chamber block.



The hole at the front is inline with the one on the bottom and can be drilled thruw in one operation if you can keep your drill inline



Next step you have to turn your part 90 degrees in your vise to drill some side holes. To center it your can use the mold line that is usualy present in that area. it does provide a good location. Locate the hole about center with the start of the taper and the little "ear". Use your center punch or mail to mark your location tap it lightly with the hammer so the drill has something to guide it when it starts working. If you don't do this your drill will go in any direction and won't do a good job specialy since your in a round area.



Then you can either drill thruw or repete the same process for the other side.

The modified part will now look like this:



Now using the tap and pilers(or tapping handle) make threads in all the holes you just drilled. I got lasy and did not want to go looking for my tapping handle so i just use a good old set of pliers. One important thing is that you have to try to start you threading tap as strait as possible.



Now using the a lager diameter drill bit and your hands clean all burrs from the outside of the holes. Apply only light pressure as the metal is soft and the drill will bite in the material easely. You can also use a dremel with a sphere bit to clean the inside



Finished part should look like this:



Ok now half the work is done.... Time to start working on that front sight section



IMPORTANT: DO NOT DRILL OUT THE TWO UPPER HOLES PRESENT ON THIS PART AS THEY SERVE TO ALING THE FRONT SIGHT WITH THE REST OF THE GUN

If those threads are damaged then you will need to repair then first by using a slitly larger screw than the one used at the moment. You must still be able to use the slot in the tube part of the outer barrel. PM me if you need more info on this mather

Ok now. Drill 1 hole on each side and one on the bottom using the mold lines to guide you and your center punch(ie nail) to make and dent to guide your drill. The finish part should look like this



Tap and deburr all holes. finished parts should look like this:





Sand down the lenght of the set screws so they become flush with the section they are resting in. This will prevent that the screws become in the way of the accessories to be added to the gun (id ris) it's not a neccessary set but looks mutch cleaner.



Once all screws lenght are adjusted reassemble your gun a usual and put locktite on all screws..including the delta ring damn it



Congrats your done..... now the only movement left in your gun is the flex of the plastic body...now that is the only thing a metal body can indeed fix....

It takes me about 30 minutes on a stock TM gun and 1 hour on a metal bodied gun...

have fun boys and girls....
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Old December 22nd, 2005, 14:27   #2
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One thing, if you put the added bolts which secure the barrel ofset to the original two
(so if your looking at the piece from the front at 2, 5, 7, 10 o'clock ) would that make it stable since its recinforcing were the two bolts originaly never did instead of swinning them up on the top and adding two on the side? Anyone following my train of thought?

Peace
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Old January 31st, 2006, 20:23   #3
Drache
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Do you need the front RIS on the M4? I've got a problem with barrel wobble on mine but I don't want the RIS. I was told it would cost me $200 for the one piece barrel, $45 to install, plus the shipping and so I was looking for a cheaper way.
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Old January 31st, 2006, 20:42   #4
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$45 to install? Anything other than mech can be done by anyone that owns a screw driver and one of those little twistys for the screws.

Done it many times before. Mech I have yet to attempt...

Do it yourself!
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Old February 1st, 2006, 02:02   #5
Drache
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Well it's $45 an hour to get work done on our guns.
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Old May 17th, 2006, 19:40   #6
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The cheapest way to fix this is with coke cans. Wrap the chamber block in a sheet or a of aluminium cut from coke can, then screw the chamber block back into the receiver. If the chamber block still wobbles add another sheet to increase thickness. If it doesn't screw in fully then cut the sheet in width and try again.

That in my experience gets rid of all Marui barrel wobble until receiver tabes break, and even some misfitting one piece barrel to metal receiver wobbles.

Same with the interface between the external barrel tube and the chamber block and the front sights. A small aluminium strip wedged in gets rid of wobbles almost immediately.
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Old May 20th, 2006, 13:28   #7
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Exclamation Please use the right tools.

Just one thing tho, Vondnik we do not all have a complete workshop in the garage. LOL ;-) And please use the right tool (tap wrench clamp), instead of a pair of pliers, now that you are educating everyone. :-)
You will have a better chance of making treads that are straight instead of a greater risc of making the treads crooked.

Best regards
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Precision engineer.
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Old May 20th, 2006, 17:58   #8
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TM armalite barrel wobble cure? get an ICS AR!
just messin round

good post though, nice pics easy to follow, granted you have the nessesary tools
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Old May 25th, 2006, 07:02   #9
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[QUOTE=the end]TM armalite barrel wobble cure? get an ICS AR!
just messin round

Why don't you boys buy the Armalite from Classic army, as Tokyo Marui only makes the Colt version. There is no wobble and it is all metalbody. :!:
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Old May 28th, 2006, 01:03   #10
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Holy...nice workmanship,and I'm sure it holds up.

Or, 15 min or less and some sanding of the outer barrel, metal 90 second epoxy or JB weld, no wobble.I used 90 second epoxy and 7 months later and plenty of bashing around on the feild...Still no wobble.I don't even think all the screws are In :???: If no tap and dye,then give that a try.$5 fix.
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Old May 28th, 2006, 01:10   #11
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problem with that is if you ever want to change your setup.
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Old May 28th, 2006, 23:28   #12
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What do you mean? If your saying you can't take off the parts from the outer barrel just remove the triangle sight and slide them off the front like a one piece. You still can take the barrel on and off from the receiver.Your only Epoxing the outer barrel joints and basically welding it together with epoxy or if you want JB weld.I switch my gun back and forth from m733 to m4 ris all the time when I want a change.

Anyhow sorry to jack your thread.
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Old January 4th, 2008, 13:19   #13
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Instead of using a punch to center your hole, you can try the center drill bit.

like these:


They are small and very hard, so they're perfect to start a hole. We're using them at school and they're very usefull!

I don't know where to buy them. Maybe at the Canadian Tire store?
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Old January 4th, 2008, 17:32   #14
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Those are for counter sinking holes. You still need a small pilot hole to use those, and you need to use a punch to dent the metal to keep the small starter bit from walking around. Vondnik is a professional machinist by trade, so it's best not to argue with him.
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Old January 16th, 2008, 20:35   #15
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MY TM BARREL WOBBLE FIX

My hillbilly repair was done with solder with some flux and a torch. I soldered it like you would a copper pluming pipe. This so far has fixed my TM AR barrel wobble. Update one year of gaming and still holding.

Last edited by zone 69; September 29th, 2008 at 10:58..
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