.::::WE M4 Airsoft Build NOVEMBER 24, 2011 COMPLETE (last post)::::.

[turok_t]

Welcome to Turok???s WE M4 project, which is officially complete! This project endeavors to bring realism in producing a short, CQB weapon. This project is based on the WE/WETTI M4 platform, and consists of several aftermarket parts to achieve high recoil and a high ROF. This gun officially kicks much harder and shoots much faster than stock. Special thanks goes out to Lon for allowing me to use his gun as a reference and providing me with assistance as needed. The photographs below are progress/log pictures that have been captured throughout the course of this project. They are in no means completed in the order that they are presented below.

CONTENTS

A. Trigger Box Modifications
B. Sear, Trigger, Hammer Modifications
C. Anti-Rotational Link Modifications
D. Inner Barrel Cutting and Crowning
E. Charging Handle Modifications
F. Buffer Installation
G. Outer Barrel/Barrel Spacer Assembly
H. Lower Receiver Airbrushing
I. Gas Block Assembly

A. Trigger Box Modification

This picture has been taken directly from Qlong???s build comparing the relief cuts between all three upper receivers. As noted, the VLTOR upper receiver (middle) has thicker relief cuts and prevents the upper and lower halves from mating. As such, the trigger box, screws, and valve strike plate (Part #59) needs to be thinned to accommodate these thicker relief cuts.



The top front surface of the RA-TECH trigger box was filed and sanded to make it thinner.



After sanding, the trigger box was test fitted with the lower receiver to determine the amount of material that remains to be removed. Once it fit perfectly, the surface was refined with 800, 1000 and 1500 grid sandpaper.




Test fitting the valve striker to determine its fitment with the sanded surface.



After completion of the trigger box, the edges of Part #59 was trimmed since the side of this plate adds extra height to the trigger box. This will interfere with the thicker relief cuts on the VLTOR upper.



The sides of this plate were filed and sanded to create a smooth even surface. Half of each screw hole remains, providing sufficient contact for the two screws to secure the plate onto the trigger box.






Even though the two screw holes have been cut in half, the screws also need to be halvened (is this a word?) in order to create a flushed, raised edge to accommodate the relief cuts on the upper receiver.




The top surface of the valve knocker (Part #61) will also need to be sanded to accommodate the reduced height of the trigger box. During normal operation, when the valve knocker is in the forward position and a magazine is inserted, the distal component of the valve knocker (Part #62) will be pushed up. When the hammer is then cocked, the valve knocker should freely slide backwards. If the top of the valve knocker is not sanded, it will be obstructed by Part #59 since the trigger box is now thinned and Part #59 is applying pressure directly on the valve knocker. This pressure creates sheering force that prevents the valve knocker from retracting. Several layers of tape along the inner edges of the trigger box was also added to provide additional elevation for Part #59, in order for the valve knocker to slide/retract smoothly when being pushed up by the magazine valve. Grease as also applied to further assist its functions.

B. Sear, Trigger, Hammer Modifications

In order to use the BADASS, the trigger and sear had to be modified. The rear of the hammer and the sear had to be filed to accommodate the raised surfaces (the parts of the fire selector that gives it function) of the selector switch. The trigger and sear were slowly sanded to ensure that just sufficient material was removed. It was modded and test fitted multiple times to ensure that it worked properly. Credit goes out to Qlong for helping me with this part

C. Anti-Rotational Link Modifications

The WE M4 platform does not require any anti-rotational links, so they were only used as a dummy for this build. Nonetheless, I still used anti-rotational links. Since the pin for the links is slightly larger than the stock pin used on the WE M4 receiver, the hole in the receiver needs to be slightly widened. But before I did that, precautionary measures were taken to ensure that NO scratches were inflicted on the surface of the receiver.




Once the hole has been widened, the pin fits snuggly in the hole. I ensured that I didn???t drill too much because I didn't want the pin to sit too loose.




If you carefully inspect the lower receiver, you can not attach the other anti-rotational pin through the lower receiver for two reasons: 1) there is no hole where the pin inserts, but instead, a circular recess on each side of the receiver. 2) Even if you drilled a hole straight through these circular recess, it will NOT align with the hammer hole pin in the trigger box, but slightly in front of it. So, in order to stabilize the anti-rotational links to the bottom hole, I was not able to use the supplied pin. Instead, I made two small cylinders that would secure the links to the circular recess on the lower receiver.

D. Inner Barrel Cutting and Crowning

Since this GBBR is only 7??? long, the shortest CQB inner barrel still protrudes out of the flash hider. I measured the exact length required and truncated the barrel with a hack saw that resulted in a raw finish shown below.




In order for the new end of the barrel to be completely flat and perpendicular to the length of the inner barrel, it can not be sanded by hand. Same goes for the crowning. This process is too delicate and needs to be machined accurately.



Here is the final length of the inner barrel. Even though everyone knows I???m a sandpaper whore that likes to polish everything, I didn???t use sandpaper for the inner barrel, but yet, I still achieved a shiny finish with automated tools! The images may appear blurry, but you can see how I crowned/chamfered the inner diameter. The inner ridge is completely even all around.




Since I like things nice and shiny, I polished the outer barrel and brass tube with some Mother aluminum polish.

E. Charging Handle Modifications

The full instructions on modding a charging handle to be used on the WE platform can be found at the WEM4 Wiki here: http://wem4guide.wikidot.com/modifications

All you need is a 3/32 roll pain and secure it at the rear edge of the head of the charging handle like this:


I got the exact roll pins from Home Depot and shortened it to the correct length. I used a drill press to create a hole at the rear edge of the head of the charging handle. However, my drill press shifted, so the hole is not in the middle Note to self: Use a nail and make an indent/mark at the centre of where the hole should be. This indent serves as an anchor or guide for the drill bit as it lowered by the drill press. Anyways, the charging handle stay works. I added some JB weld at the base of the roll pin to further secure it in its position.

F. Buffer Installation

To achieve heavier recoil, I simply used a heavier buffer. Here is a simple comparison of the weight of the two buffers.

Stock WE M4 Buffer


RA-Tech AW Super Recoil Buffer Version 2


Since the height of the buffers above are different, you need to use the provided washers from RA-Tech. If too many washers are used, the bolt catch will not engage the bolt. If too few washers are used, the wheel on the hammer will roll off the bolt carrier, blocking the bolt from returning to battery and causing the bolt carrier to jam.

G. Outer Barrel/Barrel Spacer Assembly

For the outer barrel to be installed into the upper receiver, the two protruding notches that mate into the barrel spacer need to be filed flush with the spacer since the RS upper receiver (left) do not have the two slits (3???oclock and 9???oclock position) as seen on the airsoft counterpart (right) as per Qlong???s picture.



Since there is only one slit at the 12???oclock position on the upper receiver, the protruding notches on the outer barrel needs to be filed down.





The following step is probably the most crucial for the gun to function properly. It has to be completed with a lot of precision and preparation. It took me two hours just to prepare for this step. The barrel spacer/outer barrel has nothing securing it into the upper receiver (since the two protruding notches have been cut) and is currently free to rotate. The next step is to drill a hole EXACTLY at the 12???oclock position of the barrel spacer to install a pin. This pin will secure the barrel spacer/outer barrel into the upper receiver. In order to complete this step, two considerations need to be followed:
The diameter of the hole needs to be the EXACT diameter of the slit on the RS upper or else the barrel spacer/brass tube assembly will rotate, especially with all the vibration and recoil from the gun. When drilling a hole and hammering the pin at the 12???oclock position of the barrel spacer, it MUST be at the EXACT position (ie. upright and perpendicular to the horizontal axis of the spacer). If it is slightly off, the outer barrel/brass tube assembly will be slightly rotated, and thus, the gas inlet of the brass tube will not align with the magazine.

To ensure that the above two considerations are met, Teflon tape was applied on the upper receiver threads so that markings can be drawn directly on the threads. I aligned and matched up the and airsoft receivers and clamped them together so I can mark the location of the two slits on the upper. These markings serve as reference points as you will soon see.





Next, a hole at the 12???oclock position of the barrel spacer was drilled. In order for the hole to be at exactly 12???oclock, I installed it in the upper receiver and aligned the notches with the markings drawn on the upper receiver threads. These markings serve as reference points to keep the barrel spacer completely oriented. Without these markings, I wouldn't know if the spacer has been rotated inside the upper receiver. Next, a drill bit with the same diameter as the width of the upper receiver was used to drill the hole.






Voila! The result is a perfectly perpendicular hole.





Originally, I planned to use a roll pin, but instead, I opted for a piece of steel rod to provide better stability. It was hammered in, cut, and sanded at the top to ensure that it did not interfere with the threads of the upper receiver.










Before fastening any metal nut on to the upper receiver, I always use Teflon tape for all metal to metal contact to protect the threads. This also ensures a tighter seal between the two components.




A rubber o-ring was installed over the barrel nut since the barrel spacer/inner barrel assembly was able to wobble forward about 2-3mm. This was caused because the barrel nut simply couldn???t apply pressure over the spacer even when it was completely fastened to the end of the receiver threads. I simply went to Home Depot and purchased a packet of various o-rings in the plumbing department to reduce this extra space. Now the barrel spacer/inner barrel does not wobble forward anymore

H. Lower Receiver Airbrushing

The color on the stock WE/WETTI M4 receiver was too flat for my taste, and there were a few scratches on the lower receiver that irritated me. I prefer a color that was slightly glossier (satin) that matched the color for my upper receiver. The lower receiver was completely stripped from the gun, and was washed with warm water and soap, and scrubbed with toothbrush to remove any dirt, residue and oil. When the lower receiver was dry, I used TruStrip to remove any remaining residue and prepared the surface of the receiver for painting.

I mixed some Duracoat Parker and Duracoat HK Semi-Gloss Black and adjusted with the hardener (comes with the paint) to achieve a glossier finish. I used an adjustable compressor at 30 psi, and a dual-action air brush to control the emission of paint. After I sprayed the first layer, I gave it approximately 24 hours for the paint to cure and sanded some areas that appeared to be rough/dry. I applied a second and third layer, allowed the paint to dry, and used a piece of paper (sometimes even my finger) and q-tip to sand off the rough areas (areas with some texture).

I. Gas Block Assembly

No mods were required for installing the gas block, but it was very difficult to insert the pin into the block/tube without scratching or damaging the gas block. Here are some images of the gas block on the outer barrel before the rail was installed.














Any regrets for this build?
None whatsoever. The only thing I would of done differently is to use a VLTOR VIS-1 instead of the DD MK18 rail, but at that time, I already purchased the VLTOR upper receiver.

Future plans?
I might save up and get a Surefire M900A or a Eotech XPS, but right now, I prefer to use my sights.

Am I Qlong's brother?
No.
Completed pictures in the post below..

[turok_t]

[spartan117]

looks good.

[Boyso]

Daaaamn.

Amazing looking build.

Keep up the good work (Even though I hate you :P)

[Ross]

This is awesome.

[MrBig0]

You're a fucking artist, man. Looks really, really great.

[fi3re]

wow! very inspiring build man! Dont even want to think about how much this project ran you...I really like the proportions of the gun (I love cqb short rifles)

[jakster]

I came....
WoW! Nice job.

[Molomir]

Jesus! Are you an Armourer or an engineer or something!? cause that is freaking amazing man! :O

[Kefray]

smoking hot gun. I simply love everything about it

[megaman]

This is by far the most intense build I have ever seen on an airsoft gun!!

Any video's of it in action??

[Eeyore]

Mind if I ask roughly what did it cost? $2200 around?

[Steven]

I..... I don't know what to say.

[TheAngrySniper]

Holy sheeeeeet.

[MASAKO]

Originally Posted by Eeyore

Mind if I ask roughly what did it cost? $2200 around?

If it's that much, I would nicely ask him build me another one since my PTW cost more or less 3k already.