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Old February 16th, 2008, 01:58   #16
Cleric
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Really near Calgary
Quote:
Originally Posted by swatt13 View Post
you should elaborate on the battery charging discharging procedures...
(emphasis added)

I'd like to hear people's advice & methods for discarge as well.

And the following, too:
1. How frequently would you advise re-greasing the gears?

2. I read on the Systema cylinder grease instructions they recommend re-lubing the cylinder after 3000 rounds or so. Have you found this to be necessary?
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Old February 16th, 2008, 02:17   #17
mcguyver
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleric View Post
1. How frequently would you advise re-greasing the gears?
Never. I see no need to. There have been cases where there have been over 200,000 rounds through a PTW, with no work done at all to the gearbox (Steven from Empire told me this.)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleric View Post
2. I read on the Systema cylinder grease instructions they recommend re-lubing the cylinder after 3000 rounds or so. Have you found this to be necessary?
I relube the cylinder when I change the nozzle o-ring, or at about 10K rounds or so. No problems to report, and 3000 is a bit quick in my opinion.
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Old February 23rd, 2008, 12:26   #18
MadMorbius
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Someone sticky this thread please.

Note regarding real steel rail assemblies; I purchased a Midwest Industries two-piece "drop in" railed handguard (MCTAR17). It does NOT fit.

By all accounts it should fit, but it seems to be about 5mm too long. Viking and I have speculated that the taper on the rear end of the handguards is a little too steep, and it won't fit fully under the delta ring. I'll be bringing it by my gunsmith to see if he can figure it out.

I also have a request in the MI about this. They offer two variants; the MCTAR17 and the MTAR17C. The "C" version is specifically for Colt. I've asked them what the difference is, since they seem to be the only people who have made a distinction between the two as far as rail systems are concerened.

Last edited by MadMorbius; February 23rd, 2008 at 12:39..
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Old February 23rd, 2008, 12:40   #19
mcguyver
 
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If the grooves on the underside of the rail lock into the splines on the barrel nut, then the length of the rail should be correct to lock it into the front handguard ring.

Is this what's happening here?

I measured the handguards from my Bushmaster XM15E2S and they are 6 5/8". The stock handguards from my PTWs are 6 5/8" as well.

I looked at both as a comparison for fit at the points where the meet the barrel nut and the front ring. They are so close as to be virtually indistinguishable. The Bushmaster ones have a little "tit" to allow for a more snug fit, while PTW ones are smooth around the circumference where they fit in the front handguard ring.
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Last edited by mcguyver; February 23rd, 2008 at 12:47..
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Old February 23rd, 2008, 18:55   #20
MadMorbius
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That's just it - if the front is locked in to the front ring, you the channel doesn't line up with the splines. The handguards are the same length, but the distance between the front of the handguards and the channel that accepts the splines in longer on the MI rail.
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Old February 23rd, 2008, 19:43   #21
MadMorbius
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Ok, I figured it out.

On the front of the handguards, there are two channels which lock into the end cap. On the MI rail, when the two handguards are together, that gap is about 3/8 of an inch. On the stock hanguards, the gap is a 1/4 inch.

To make the MI rail fit, you need to filedown the front of the MI guard at that gap so that it fits completely into the tabs in the cap. Otherwise, it doesn't seat far enough to mate the sprocket with the groove at the back of the handguard. Boy do I feel stupid.

Top is on, filing down the bottom now.
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Old February 23rd, 2008, 19:53   #22
mcguyver
 
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It was those little "tits" that allow for a snug fit. They sit on the top of the part that inserts into the handguard ring? The Bushmaster grips have those as well.
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Old February 23rd, 2008, 20:21   #23
MadMorbius
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Actually no, picture the extra space those tits take and fill in the rest of the space. I had to file off about 1/16 of an inch.
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Old February 24th, 2008, 14:26   #24
Trader 762
 
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Great now I'm wondering if the one I ordered is a Gen 3.5 or 4.

I'll find out this wednesday hopefully.
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Old February 25th, 2008, 21:33   #25
MadMorbius
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Note, I finally heard back from Midwest Industries. If you order a rail forearm from them, order the MCTAR17C version. It is made with wider spacing to accomadate the larger cap tabs.
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Old February 26th, 2008, 15:01   #26
Trader 762
 
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Well, she's arrived and I got all my mags and cylinders ready to go.

Only one problem, that upper receiver is on so tight, my thumbs are turning blue trying so hard.

Is there a trick to separating the two parts so I may swap cylinders.

The instructions say ball bearing securing the upper receiver and considerable force is required.

I've pulled the pin out as much as it will go, a click is heard.

Thanks in advance.

DISREGARD, I ate some spinach and that did the job.
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Last edited by Trader 762; February 26th, 2008 at 15:15..
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Old February 26th, 2008, 15:30   #27
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I put the stock facing my right side and put the magwell on my left leg. Then, while holdign onto the rear sight, I give a quick slap to the stock tube. You need some force to do it, but it works well and you always have the upper supported so it doesn't swing away wildly on you.

It's best to do this with the mag out of the gun.
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Old February 26th, 2008, 15:36   #28
Trader 762
 
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Thanks Mcguyver, you're very helpful.

I did something like that, I just pulled really hard when the gun was vertical.

It is one sweet piece of kit. Just adjusting the hop up and adjusting my red dot sight right now.
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Last edited by Trader 762; February 26th, 2008 at 15:45..
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Old February 26th, 2008, 15:47   #29
ILLusion
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I do it with stock on my left leg and barrel on the right leg, gun lying left side down.

With the stock extended, I place my left hand over the buffer tube, fingers wrapping over top the buffer tube. I then use my left thumb to push up on the forward assist knob and use my right hand to support it. That's usually enough leverage to pop it open without having to strike the gun at all.
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Old February 27th, 2008, 10:30   #30
MadMorbius
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Just don't let the upper and lower slam together at the front pin. Those two parts should never come in contact under force or you can torque the lower receiver at the pin and potentially crack the lower.

This is standard for ANY AR rifle.
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