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BTC Spectre Mk.II Help

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Old July 28th, 2017, 16:51   #1
zReaperAssassin
 
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Exclamation BTC Spectre Mk.II Help

So I installed a BTC Spectre Mk.II into my gun today and it is firing oerfectly. However, the battery and motor get relatively warm and sometimes hot to the touch. Does anybody know what could be wrong? Shimming should be fine, the gears spin freely with no up and down movement, SHS High Torque Motor, SHS 13:1 Gears, Firefox 11.1v 15c 1100mah battery. I think that's all the gun info I can give, let me know if anything else is needed. Thanks in advance!
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Old July 28th, 2017, 17:48   #2
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Did you check your shimming with the gearbox screwed closed?

Did you shim bevel>pinion?

What is your fet amp cutoff set to?

Do you have a better battery to test with? 15c is not enough juice to power an upgraded gun like that.
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Old July 28th, 2017, 17:59   #3
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Originally Posted by Spike View Post
Did you check your shimming with the gearbox screwed closed?

Did you shim bevel>pinion?

What is your fet amp cutoff set to?

Do you have a better battery to test with? 15c is not enough juice to power an upgraded gun like that.
Yea, I shimmed everything pretty well. As for the digital fuse amp, it was set to 60amps as that is what is was when I first opened the app. I have a 20-40c Turnigy Nano-Tech lipo I can test with if that would work.
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Old July 28th, 2017, 18:11   #4
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What does your average current read as? SHS HT and 13:1 should be in the low 20s in amperage.

Are you using braking?
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Old July 28th, 2017, 18:14   #5
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Originally Posted by pestobanana View Post
What does your average current read as? SHS HT and 13:1 should be in the low 20s in amperage.

Are you using braking?
I just tried it again, and the semi amp is 20 simps like normal, but when I switch to full auto now, it is drawing 70-72 amps which is weird as it was working fine with the same setting as earlier. Something changed while I was out. As for braking, I think mine is on maximum as if it is not on maximum, the end of the 3 round burst doesn't finish all the way forward as it should (I think?). Is this bad?
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Old July 28th, 2017, 18:27   #6
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Originally Posted by pestobanana View Post
What does your average current read as? SHS HT and 13:1 should be in the low 20s in amperage.

Are you using braking?
Forgot to mention as I said with semi, the amperage and firing is fine, but when in burst, the amperage goes up to 70 (what the app tells me) and the 2 beeping alarm sets off. It did not do this before and I have honestly no clue what is wrong.
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Old July 28th, 2017, 19:53   #7
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Originally Posted by zReaperAssassin View Post
I just tried it again, and the semi amp is 20 simps like normal, but when I switch to full auto now, it is drawing 70-72 amps which is weird as it was working fine with the same setting as earlier. Something changed while I was out. As for braking, I think mine is on maximum as if it is not on maximum, the end of the 3 round burst doesn't finish all the way forward as it should (I think?). Is this bad?
The heat is from motor braking, essentially the mosfet reverses the current to stop the motor instantly and prevent overspin, you also might have ROF control on, in which case the BTC will brake the motor in between each shot. this makes heat. Braking will wear the motor faster, BUT that said ive been using AB for the past 5 years and i have yet to ruin a motor. As far as the battery, your 15c battery is not good enough if it is getting hot, you need a battery with a higher discharge rate, or more mah. The formula for the discharge of the battery in amps is ((c)*(mah))/1000. Lipos will have to c ratings on them, a burst and a constant rating, the burst rating will be the higher rating and is the maximum amount of current the battery can supply to start the motor, the constant rating is the maximum discharge rate over an extended period of time. A very simplistic way of looking at it, although not entirely correct is to think of it as when you shoot in semi you use the burst rating, in full auto you use the constant rating.
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Old July 28th, 2017, 20:18   #8
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Originally Posted by BenG View Post
The heat is from motor braking, essentially the mosfet reverses the current to stop the motor instantly and prevent overspin, you also might have ROF control on, in which case the BTC will brake the motor in between each shot. this makes heat. Braking will wear the motor faster, BUT that said ive been using AB for the past 5 years and i have yet to ruin a motor. As far as the battery, your 15c battery is not good enough if it is getting hot, you need a battery with a higher discharge rate, or more mah. The formula for the discharge of the battery in amps is ((c)*(mah))/1000. Lipos will have to c ratings on them, a burst and a constant rating, the burst rating will be the higher rating and is the maximum amount of current the battery can supply to start the motor, the constant rating is the maximum discharge rate over an extended period of time. A very simplistic way of looking at it, although not entirely correct is to think of it as when you shoot in semi you use the burst rating, in full auto you use the constant rating.
Well I just tested the gun again and the signal wire had caught on fire and started smoking. I disconnected the lipo right away. What happened??
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Old July 28th, 2017, 20:47   #9
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Well I just tested the gun again and the signal wire had caught on fire and started smoking. I disconnected the lipo right away. What happened??
I stand corrected, sounds like a short or a manufacturing issue.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderCactus View Post
I think that's the direction I should have gone with this one though.
gen1 - I can't see shit
gen2 - I see LOTS of green, but not many people
gen3 - Nobody wants to play with me because I'm an elitist asshole now
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Old July 28th, 2017, 21:23   #10
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BenG that is now how motor braking works. Motor braking works by connecting the poles, not by reversing the current. Braking is very bad for AEG motors, and will lead to a lot of motor heat as well as heat in the wiring.

It is normal for your gun to read a lower average current when spamming in semi. If your average current in full auto is 70A, it means you really need to re-check your shimming or motor.
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Old July 28th, 2017, 21:24   #11
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I stand corrected, sounds like a short or a manufacturing issue.
The weird thing is, isn't the Spectre supposed to not function if there is a short? It says so right on the paper manual it gives you for troubleshooting. The gun fired then the signal wire started smoking and melted the insulation. I'm thinking it was a manufacturing error. It was working fine and then not at all with no setting really changed. The positive wire also never got hot or melted and it is on the same deans connection. This is weird.
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Old July 28th, 2017, 21:28   #12
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Originally Posted by zReaperAssassin View Post
Well I just tested the gun again and the signal wire had caught on fire and started smoking. I disconnected the lipo right away. What happened??
That's not a signal wire, that's a braking wire.
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Old July 28th, 2017, 21:28   #13
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Originally Posted by pestobanana View Post
BenG that is now how motor braking works. Motor braking works by connecting the poles, not by reversing the current. Braking is very bad for AEG motors, and will lead to a lot of motor heat as well as heat in the wiring.

It is normal for your gun to read a lower average current when spamming in semi. If your average current in full auto is 70A, it means you really need to re-check your shimming or motor.
Yea it is weird about the 70A, however it wasn't that big of a amp reading earlier when it was working fine. Something weird happened between when I first used it and then used it for the second time.
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Old July 28th, 2017, 21:29   #14
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That's not a signal wire, that's a braking wire.
Thought it was a signal wire. What is the braking wires function if you don't mind explaining..
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Old July 29th, 2017, 01:51   #15
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whoops your totally right airsoft guns do use rheostatic braking, just to be clear, you can also brake DC motors with a polarity switch. braking is bad for motors, but not such that that it renders the motor useless in a very short period of time, yes its best not to have braking enabled but if someone is using it its not going to kill there gun for a very long time, I have never seen a motor fail from braking in the 7 years ive been playing, and if anything a quick run on a comm lathe every year or every other year will sort everything out before you get to the stage where the motor wont run.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderCactus View Post
I think that's the direction I should have gone with this one though.
gen1 - I can't see shit
gen2 - I see LOTS of green, but not many people
gen3 - Nobody wants to play with me because I'm an elitist asshole now
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