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Warm motor, warm lipo

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Old April 14th, 2014, 20:58   #31
Blitz85
 
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They are proprietary to ics cylinder heads for sure, but if you have a non stock cylinder head obviously that's not a problem. The question is if reaches far enough into the hop up, if not I'm SOL and out 6 bucks lol
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Old April 14th, 2014, 21:03   #32
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If the nozzle is not the right length just sand it down, no biggy.
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Old April 14th, 2014, 21:05   #33
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Assuming it's too long and not too short. Lol
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Old April 14th, 2014, 21:07   #34
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Haha-- I hear you on the heavy investment. (funny)

But I was referring to the clearance on the nozzle. I found this out the hard way as even the ICS dealer did not know the nozzle on the M4 was specific to the M4. It was only when we were trouble shooting (so to speak) at the store we actually did a comparison.

ICS
Another M4 upgraded nozzle.

The upgraded made the gun misfeed and jam. Then we swapped to stock...boom....perfect feed.

Then we looked at the m4 nozzles and surprise surprise....the ics is shorter.

Like TM they have there own spin on things.

All I am trying to say is that gun is not something that you can mix and match easy at all.

Either way, sound like you are closing in on the warm motor lipo draw for sure.

Hope to hear how it turned out.


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Old April 14th, 2014, 21:11   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pestobanana View Post
If the nozzle is not the right length just sand it down, no biggy.
Not enough material to sand down.

The end that goes on the nozzle you sand that down you are into the groove that the tappet plate seats in.

The nozzle end where you meet the BB is not a good idea as that is part of the design.

Again, we are talking close to a mm not a slight difference.
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Old April 14th, 2014, 21:13   #36
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I will report back as soon as I try the motor, hopefully with good news... I'm Well aware of ICS compatibility pain lol
Thanks for all the help.
appreciate it!
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Old April 14th, 2014, 21:26   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trev140_0 View Post
Not enough material to sand down.

The end that goes on the nozzle you sand that down you are into the groove that the tappet plate seats in.

The nozzle end where you meet the BB is not a good idea as that is part of the design.

Again, we are talking close to a mm not a slight difference.
Nope sanding that end of the nozzle is fairly normal. A lot of the time the chamfer on the nozzle is excessive anyway.

Just have to make sure it's sanded evenly and has a smooth finish.
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Old April 24th, 2014, 20:36   #38
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Alright so I re shimmed from the bevel/ pinion, leaving a very slight amount of play ( less than .10 for sure). Put in a new lonex A1 motor. The battery, motor, and lipo are still getting warm. And I when I take the motor out I would go as far as to say its hot.
I'm out of ideas so anything you guys can think of that I can check or re-do I'm all ears. Or if you can think of any little stupid thing I may have overlooked.... Is it possible I have a short somewhere? I do have a multimeter and there is no excess resistance through any of my wiring/ joints.
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Old April 24th, 2014, 21:05   #39
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Try a use a different lipo since yours is probably damaged internally.
The motor normally gets hot during operation, but you shouldn't find that it's hot on the pistol grip.
Otherwise check the wiring.
The lonex also uses metal brush hood screws, but I think it has a plastic retaining ring, so that shouldn't be an issue.

And check the resistance on the wiring when the mechbox is in the gun, I've had shorts ground through the receiver before.
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Old April 24th, 2014, 22:11   #40
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Il have to buy another lipo, I had planned to anyways but my hesitation is that If it's not the battery I don't want to keep feeding this problem fresh lipo batteries to destroy. The battery charges and stays completely cold through the whole charge, could it still be damaged even though it charges without heating up? I have been checking the resistance with the gearbox in the receiver and it's all at 0. Would a short show up through checking resistance?
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Old April 24th, 2014, 22:21   #41
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If it's not heating up during the charging process then that's good lol
The short may show up, check it between wire and receiver as well.
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Old April 24th, 2014, 22:56   #42
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I'm going to go over all the wiring again, how small of a break or hole in the wiring casing could cause a short?
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Old April 25th, 2014, 14:41   #43
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even pinholes can cause problems
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Old April 25th, 2014, 16:51   #44
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I still maintain you have load in the motor that is causing the heat.

Be it shim or even the track the piston is traveling in.
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Old April 25th, 2014, 17:08   #45
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The upper gearbox isn't attached so it's not the piston lol
I shimmed from the bevel / pinion, leaving less than .10 movement on all gears, and there are no noticeable noises coming from the gearbox, It would actually be nice if it were something like that, but it can't see it.
Maybe I will take a shim off the top of the bevel so it accepts the pinion a bit better?
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