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Why do I need to upgrade (or not) - with explanations!

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Upgrades & Modifications

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Old July 18th, 2008, 11:40   #61
m102404
Tys
 
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Maporms...thanks for posting up your list(s). What would be really helpful (and a lot of work on your end) would be to detail/explain your reasoning for selecting those parts. I.e. what you were trying to achieve and how the part you chose did/didn't do that.

Again...a lot of work, but it'd be so helpful for others.

And, specifically...do have have any more info/comments on running those rifles with LiPo's?

Thanks!

Tys
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Old July 19th, 2008, 08:20   #62
maporms
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m102404 View Post
Maporms...thanks for posting up your list(s). What would be really helpful (and a lot of work on your end) would be to detail/explain your reasoning for selecting those parts. I.e. what you were trying to achieve and how the part you chose did/didn't do that.

Again...a lot of work, but it'd be so helpful for others.

And, specifically...do have have any more info/comments on running those rifles with LiPo's?

Thanks!

Tys
You are welcome sir! I dont know much about lipolies but here are the pros and cons based on my experience and other player's inputs

Pros:
-Insane Rate of Fire (especially if you pair it up with stock springs and stock gears, but i suggest you use a sector chip to prevent misfeeding)

-Easy to charge if you have a lipoly balancer and charger. No over charging if you are using a smart balancer.

-No need to drain the batt (lipolies love to be charged)

-More compact than Sub-C Batteries



Cons:
-Because of insane rof, you are required to reshim and change your stock bushings to metal. Advisable is to reinforce your parts especially your piston body and sector gear.

-Charging using a wall charger is a big No No

-Very sensitive, i've heard some cheap china lipolies explode

-A fully drained lipoly is prone to, as what Filipino Airsofters call, getting "Pregnant". They tend to bloat. If that happens, goodbye Lipoly

-Harder to decock your spring because of ROF (that is why i keep my stock 8.4v batteries)

-Advisable not to use in the rain. But i did some mod's on my batt compartment to prevent my Lipolies from getting wet.

Well in my own opinion, its up to the user's preferences if he/she chooses the safer 9.6v Sub Cells, or the 11.1v Lipolies. I love using lipolies because of the rate of fire. Haven't got any single problem just as long as you know how to take care of these babies.

By the way, there's a new version of lipoly with 7.4v output. Much safer on your system, and has the same rof with 9.6v Sub-C's. plus has a high Mah of 2250mah. I just don't know if these things are available in your side of the planet.

Just my 2 bb's
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Last edited by maporms; July 19th, 2008 at 08:22..
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Old July 19th, 2008, 09:25   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m102404 View Post
Maporms...thanks for posting up your list(s). What would be really helpful (and a lot of work on your end) would be to detail/explain your reasoning for selecting those parts. I.e. what you were trying to achieve and how the part you chose did/didn't do that.

Again...a lot of work, but it'd be so helpful for others.


Thanks!

Tys
I'll Try My Best.. here goes:

CA SLR105 - 550ish fps (yes we do have open fps game sites here in the Philippines)

Systema m150 spring - to reach my desired fps, Systema springs are much better than Guarder SP Springs, but the only problem I see is because of the uneven spaces between the springs, much prone to breaking in two.
Techpro Piston Head Double O-ring with Bearing - double O-rings provide better compression, plus the bearing lessens the stress on the front end of the spring. Its also Aluminum which is a must for more than 500 fps.
Systema Spring Guide With Bearing - reinforced part, bearings lessen the stress on the back end of the springs. One of the best out there.
G-Factory ported Aluminum Piston Body Half Tooth - reinforced part, plus half tooths are required for infinite gears. Ported so as not to sacrifice rof since we will be using infinite gears.
Guarder Infinite Gears - reinforced part, these gears are required for
m150 springs and up. Poor rate of fire, but batt power efficient.
Guarder Red Motor - value for money motor. very strong magnet. high torque produced is a must for m150 springs and up.
6.03id Tight Bore Barrel 455mm - for better groupings, and +10 something fps
Systema Hop Up Rubber - better compression, not too hard, not too soft. A friend of mine suggested a Guarder 70% which is harder for higher springs but its currently out of stock.
Bhremen Haus 15c 2000mah 11.1v Lipoly Battery - hard springs and high torque motors require a lot of power. Its advisable if you go higher than 2000mah though.
Stock Cylinder Head and Tappet Plate - waiting for these to break before I upgrade these. By the way, using Aluminum Cylinder head while at the same time using an Aluminum Piston Head in my own opinion is not advisable because it adds more stress for the gear box.

I still haven't changed my airseal nozzle for this gun, might exceed 550 if i do.


JG Spetsnaz - 450ish (Legal FPS for most sites)

Pdi 190 Spring - to reach 450fps. mine is settled, but chronoed before @ 470fps. PDI 190's are stable when they reach their settling stage as compared with Systema m130 and Guarder SP 130
CA STU Gears - Safer on my system, plus more efficient in battery consumption. I used stock gears on my system but I chose to go with STU for durability purposes
SRC Piston Head With Bearing - cheaper and not at par than a Systema or Techpro but much better than using the stock piston head. Again, bearings are to minimize stress on springs
Systema Spring Guide With Bearing - pls refer above
Deepfire Titanium Piston Body Full Tooth - Polycarb body but titanium coated steel teeth. A very strong piston body, especially if you are the type of player who have itchy trigger fingers, if you know what I mean (bratatatatatatatatatatatatatatat). Checked my Deepfire after 3 mos of heavy use, no stripped teeth. Though some strongly suggest that you remove the 2nd and some, 3rd tooth from the back part to strengthen your piston bodies. Did not bother using an aluminum piston body for this setup because its overkill for the sector gear since I am running on a softer spring.
Guarder m4 Length Air Seal Nozzle (AK nozzles are 1mm short) - tried using ak length before but because of the 1mm shortage, poor compression is the result.
Marui EG1000 Motor - High speed motor. Very reliable. advisable for
Pdi 190, m130, sp130 and below. perfect for Guarder SP120.
Stock Cylinder Head - waiting to give up on me. Again, aluminum stock cylinder heads are overkill for gear boxes, in my own opinion.
6.03 Tight Bore Barrel 363mm - pls refer above. did not bother using less than 6.03 because of the fear of having a badly deformed bb scrathing my barrel's insides.
Systema Hop Up Rubber - pls refer above
Bhremen Haus 12c 1600mah 11.1v Lipoly Battery - 12c is safer for this setup but this setup can handle 15c lipolies since i am running on STU's


Cyma AK74U - 390 - 400ish FPS (Some CQB Sites) - good if not excellent Rate of Fire Setup In Mind. Since the legal limit in Canada is 400, this is a good setup.

Stock Springs - using more than stock springs on this system yielded more than 400 fps (1 year old PDI 190 chronoed @ 440).
SRC Spring Guide With Bearing - Cheaper than systema, but at par since I am using springs less than PDI 190. IMO, safe on SP120, M120 and below.
Marui EG1000 Motor - A must for Hi-Speed Setups, but not as hard to maintain as a Turbo 3000. Very reliable. TM is TM.
Systema Hop Up Rubber - Pls Refer Above
6.04id Tight Bore Barrel 301mm - Cheaper since this is just a CA tight bore, did not bother getting 6.03id or a longer length barrel for the fear of exceeding 400fps which is the limit in where I play right now.
Stock Gears, Stock Piston Body, Stock Piston Head - Cyma's have strong stock piston bodies. Even outperformded a CA stock piston body. Stock gears, and stock parts, are light so these parts are advisable for Hi Rate of Fire. The stock piston body is expected the first to break since this is a high speed setup, I suggest you get a Deepfire Titanium or any polycarb piston body if this happens. Also go for polycarb piston heads with bearings. CA and Guarder are good polycarb piston heads.
Sector Chip - THIS IS A MUST FOR THIS KIND OF SETUP. I left this out the first time and i got a lot of misfeeds.
GE Power 12c 1300man stick type 11.1v Lipoly Batteries - provided an insane rate of fire since i am using stock springs and stock gears (easier to crank). but limited to 12c to be more on the safe side. I'm not a fan of Sub-C's

CA M4a1 Compact Seal - 390fps

m120 Spring - I used a 6 month old m120, not too hard, not too soft spring. Just right.
Systema Hop Up Rubber - pls refer above
CA Air Seal Nozzle - for tighter compression, +10 to 15 fps
6.03 id Tight Bore Barrel 229mm - better groupings
Deepfire Polycarb Piston Body - Good for m120 springs and below.
Noveske Amplifier Flash Hider - Made my gun sounded like a .22 caliber gun. Intimidation factor for cqb games.
11.1v Lipoly Batt 1250mah 15c - good rate of fire. 12c's were out of stock at that time.
Stock Everything Else (comes with stock spring guide w/ bearing, piston head w/ bearing, Thanks CA!) - CA M4a1 Compacts, CA M4a1 Compact Seals, and the CA M4a1 CQB's came with excellent gearset, as well as stock piston bodies and spring guides. Crappy piston body though.

I'm a Kalashnikov Fan but I needed atleast one m4 variant in my arsenal. Though G&G have better internals, I opted to get the CA because of its Armalite Logo and I will be upgrading my internals anyway.

Additional Infos:
- My guntech did the teflon mod on these systems. For better compression. Used teflon on the cylinder as well as the hop up system.

-On Cylinders, for Ak length and Above (455mm), a type-0 cylinder is a must. For m4 length (363 and 301 mm) a type-2 cylinder is required. Using type-0's on m4 lengths will cause over compression thus resulting to fps dropped. But funny because my spetsnaz is using a 363mm barrel but yielded the most fps using a type-2 cylinder. I guess you guys have to experiment and do trial and error on this one.

-AVOID UNNECESSARY DRY FIRING. These would prolong your Cylinder Heads, Piston Heads, and Piston Bodies. Also your gearboxes. Dry firing is bad even if you have the strongest piston bodies, and reinforced gearboxes.

Hope this helps
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Last edited by maporms; July 19th, 2008 at 10:03..
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Old July 19th, 2008, 09:37   #64
m102404
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Thank you Maproms!!! That was awesome info.
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Old July 19th, 2008, 09:55   #65
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wow that was useful.
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Old July 19th, 2008, 10:01   #66
maporms
 
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Glad to be of help guys! Even if we both live from different sides of the world, we are all airsofters, and I believe that we both should learn and benefit from each other by sharing our thoughts. I've got way much more to learn myself from my fellow airsofters and tech's here in the Philippines as well as from people here at airsoftcanada, but I wanted to share what I know with you guys.

Cheers!
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Old October 1st, 2012, 01:12   #67
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This is great info. I just basically learned all of the internals of an AEG in just 10 minutes of reading. Thank you !
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