FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants

[pippin65]

best place online to buy duster gas in us?

[TaroBear]

The way I hear it, green gas is just propane. I've run 2 1911s stock on propane for months without any issue. If anything, it's once you start putting in parts that issues start popping up.

Originally Posted by e-luder

2) can I just run green gas out of the box? I purchased some 134a at evike but think I would want the extra "oomph" of green gas. or are there simple, cheap mods I need to do first? I have the 5.1 and a second tm mag on the way.

My Take:

TM's are generally used in conjunction with duster for longevity. But everyone says that it can handle green just fine.

But i wouldn't recommend it with a stock slide.
Would recommend upgrading some of the internals and upgrading the slide to a metal one to handle the higher pressure gas like GG.

My friend's TM 5.1 had a stock plastic slide and was using green gas. After a game or two, the slide broke. But you know, his might be one in the few that may be defective or something

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by TaroBear

The way I hear it, green gas is just propane. I've run 2 1911s stock on propane for months without any issue. If anything, it's once you start putting in parts that issues start popping up.

Yes green gas is propane with a bit of silicone added to it. I'm not saying that the gun, at the least the one he's talking about, can't handle green gas. but if he wanted the gun to have a longer lifespan, he would need to change some things to handle green gas. Out of the box, his gun is spec'ed to handle the lighter duster gas (as is my understanding).

I've heard of some cases where stock plastic slides have flown completely right off and hit faces and chests because the pressure from the gas was simply too much to handle. Or the some internal parts completely obliterating themselves like the loading nozzle for example.

If he wanted more 'oomph' in recoil and a boost in performance as well, he would need to change parts anyways (springs, valves, etc). At that point, I think the concern becomes more of a fitting/compatibility and installation/ calibration issue rather than gas compatibility.The onus is on the owner to research for compatibility/fitting/installation of parts. As is my understanding anyways.

My advice is to run the course on stock form with duster until something needs changing (this might take a while as Marui guns IMO are pretty tough) and upgrade to green gas when he needs to change parts.

You can find duster in like walmart or something in the automotive department or in a computer place. It's the stuff they use to clean keyboards with. The problem is that they have that weird attachment that you will need to wack off. You will also need an adapter for it. You can buy an airsoft innovation one. It's pretty cheap.

You can check this thread here for a few places:

http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthr...ght=duster+gas

I also found this guy in my search: http://www.2spi.com/catalog/supp/supp1.php

And this one from the source. It contains the tetrafluoroethane 134a compound in it.

http://www.thesource.ca/estore/Produ...9C636D6F6DB497

If that helps, at all. I'm no gun tech though. Check with illusion he would know for sure since you're dealing with a hi-capa specifically.

[RacingManiac]

http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwol..._5_1_Black.htm

mmmm...steel frame...

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by e-luder

On a separate Note, my stock outer barrel just fell off. And it keeps coming off. Like the threads on the chamber aren't holding it in place anymore. I didn't even touch it or anything. I can't afford to buy a new outer barrel/chamber at the moment. so for now, i'm just sticking to quick fixes.

Can i just loctite this thing back together? Is the kick or slide returning to battery too strong that it blows the outer barrel right off?

That's exactly the problem - exacerbated by the insane spring you're using for that setup.

Ditch the Airsoft Surgeon spring until you've at least upgraded to a heavier slide. It's too much for a stock Hi-Capa 4.3.

Originally Posted by pippin65

just bought my tm 5.1--it's somewhere on its way to me now!! I've read this topic till I got a headache and have just 2 questions.
1) is this the grease that illusion is referring to Amazon.com: Loctite 82325 3oz; super lube tb [PRICE is per TUBE]: Automotive
or will it work?
2) can I just run green gas out of the box? I purchased some 134a at evike but think I would want the extra "oomph" of green gas. or are there simple, cheap mods I need to do first? I have the 5.1 and a second tm mag on the way.

1) Yep. That's the gold you got right there.

2) It will handle propane just fine. However, with the 5.1, there is a tendency for the slide to crack, originating at one of the sharp corners of the rear sight mount. For some users, it only takes a few hundred rounds. For others, they can go tens of thousands of rounds. Install a shock buffer to mitigate the risk of cracking.

[Bobby Lemain]

This question is for a WA but it can apply to any GBB that uses a similar hammer and sear system to the 1911: if I have a steel hammer but the stock unknown metal sear, should I be worried?

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by Bobby Lemain

This question is for a WA but it can apply to any GBB that uses a similar hammer and sear system to the 1911: if I have a steel hammer but the stock unknown metal sear, should I be worried?

I would, but not as much as if the hammer material were unknown, as the smaller hammer hooks would be more likely to fail, causing uncontrollable fire.

[Bobby Lemain]

Thank you! I guess if I can't source a steel one, then I'll save a stock one and get it cloned by a machinist if and when mine breaks

[ILLusion]

Which version do you have? SCW1? SCW2? SCW3? R-Type? ILLusion Kinetics has fully matched stainless steel sets - I just need to know what hammer style you want. I'm personally not very familiar with WA's, but the factory does support WA.

[xl1]

hi Brian, what is a possibility cause if in CNC frame the disconnector (long one) cannot pull back to normal, it seems stuck with the hammer sear, if i open the beaver tail and push the disconnector a bit then it will be back to normal position.

using CP frame, with TM stock disconnector and grip. is change to the steel disconnector will solve the problem?

many thanks
andy

[one2three_us]

Just wondering if anyone knows where I can get a cocking handle that will work with AS slide in US or Canada. Don't wanna order from HK just for 1 single item. Thx

[Nighthawk70]

Originally Posted by e-luder

2) can I just run green gas out of the box? I purchased some 134a at evike but think I would want the extra "oomph" of green gas. or are there simple, cheap mods I need to do first? I have the 5.1 and a second tm mag on the way.

My Take:

TM's are generally used in conjunction with duster for longevity. But everyone says that it can handle green just fine.

But i wouldn't recommend it with a stock slide.
Would recommend upgrading some of the internals and upgrading the slide to a metal one to handle the higher pressure gas like GG.

My friend's TM 5.1 had a stock plastic slide and was using green gas. After a game or two, the slide broke. But you know, his might be one in the few that may be defective or something

The gun is designed to run on 134a, so a stronger gas without mods will break the slide sooner or later. There is a simple and cheap mod to use green gas or propane on TM hi-capa without problems. There is no need to change/upgrade the stock ABS slide.
The mod is to glue a small plastic part (10-15mm) in the blowback housing so the gas valve knocker disconnetor is engaged sooner: this will reduce the force of recoil enough so the slide won't break. It's easier done than said...

[Styrak]

Originally Posted by Nighthawk70

The gun is designed to run on 134a, so a stronger gas without mods will break the slide sooner or later. There is a simple and cheap mod to use green gas or propane on TM hi-capa without problems. There is no need to change/upgrade the stock ABS slide.
The mod is to glue a small plastic part (10-15mm) in the blowback housing so the gas valve knocker disconnetor is engaged sooner: this will reduce the force of recoil enough so the slide won't break. It's easier done than said...

I, like many other people, have ran stock TM guns for YEARS on propane. (personally it's a Hicapa 5.1 for me)

[Nighthawk70]

Originally Posted by Styrak

I, like many other people, have ran stock TM guns for YEARS on propane. (personally it's a Hicapa 5.1 for me)

The original ABS slide of my TM hi-capa broke, a little crack near the rear sight, that came off and can't be mounted anymore. After that I bought a new slide and I did the mod I'm talking about.
The problem it's not propane itself, but the pressure, that depends on temperature (under 65 F you can use propane without any problem) and the damage sometimes will become evident after some thousands BB. Moreover propane is never 100% pure, and this results in a variable pressure depending on the brand you buy and the batch it was made.
I am interested in Airsoft IPSC so I shoot many thousand BB's a month all with pistols so I shoot more than the average airsoft player that use his sidearm as a backup weapon.

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by xl1

hi Brian, what is a possibility cause if in CNC frame the disconnector (long one) cannot pull back to normal, it seems stuck with the hammer sear, if i open the beaver tail and push the disconnector a bit then it will be back to normal position.

using CP frame, with TM stock disconnector and grip. is change to the steel disconnector will solve the problem?

many thanks
andy

Andy,

Apologies on delay to respond. I've been out of the country for the past 3 weeks with no solid internet connection. I'm just catching up with inquiries and a massive pile of PM's right now.

Regarding the disconnector... unsure of the actual problem - I'm not sure I fully understand your description. Pictures speak a thousand words. But from what I gather, it sounds like you're saying the disconnector isn't able to slip behind the sear.

If you find that applying a bit of forward pressure to it will fix it, then chances are, all you have to is increase the forward pressure of the leaf spring's right most prong.

Brian