FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by Gunmage

its like the trigger wont move back any more at all. Like something is pushing it forward, making it impossible for me to pull the trigger back.

This is a dumb question (but you never know): is the safety off?

What have you done between your initial problem and this new problem?

[Gunmage]

Ok so i fixed it. Kinda. The hammer safety doesnt click, but it stays in the safety position. i remember it used to click but whatever. The whole hammer cocking halfway was due to the pressure of the middle prong which i had to pull a bit back to keep pressure off. As with the disconnector thing, i filed both the sear and disconnector and so that seems to work. My gun seems to be shooting, now im going to test the accuracy to make sure its not off because of anything.

[ILLusion]

What is the "hammer safety"?

The strength of the middle prong shouldn't have created the blockage you've described - something physical has to have gotten in the way.

[intinerious]

Hey Brian,

I've shimmed the KM valves on my MEU mags and they don't seem to fire when I use the thicker shim instead of the smaller shim.

The hammer still falls but nothing else happens. I'm guessing that the hammer isn't hitting the km flow valve when it's shimmed, and when I filled the mag with gas the valve strike face is almost the same height as the back of the mag itself..so I dunno what's happening there.

I've got a 150% guarder hammer spring, so I know its not because the hammer isn't strong enough to open the valve.

I've currently shimmed the valve with the thinner shim and it's working perfectly...but if there's a fix to get the hammer to hit a higher-shimmed valve I'd like to hear about it.

btw, I'm using the stock plastic MEU lower receiver if the internal dimension of the grip has anything to do with it.

Thanks in advance!

[ILLusion]

The height is simply too high. You can not physically go any higher without shortening the valve knocker, but if you do that, it's the exact same thing as leaving the length the same and keeping the small shim on.

It's not a mainspring strength issue. If the valve strike face is too high, it will push the valve knocker *up* when you insert the magazine, and when you rack the slide / cock the hammer, a high strike face will not give the valve knocker enough clearance to drop down in to firing position.

[intinerious]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

The height is simply too high. You can not physically go any higher without shortening the valve knocker, but if you do that, it's the exact same thing as leaving the length the same and keeping the small shim on.

It's not a mainspring strength issue. If the valve strike face is too high, it will push the valve knocker *up* when you insert the magazine, and when you rack the slide / cock the hammer, a high strike face will not give the valve knocker enough clearance to drop down in to firing position.

Thanks for the reply!

Actually, the thicker shimmed worked with the stock marui valve knocker...but when I switched back to the ProG4 one, the valve never opened.

I guess its because my stock valve knocker wore down just enough to hit the km valve with the thick shim? I did see a bit of wear (but it was really little) on the stock knocker...though putting the ProG4 knocker side by side with it didn't seem to show any dimensional differences. I've switched back to the steel proG4 knocker since I saw the bit of wear on my marui one and I don't want that piece to wear down completely.

[T[]RK]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

What is your hammer upgraded with? That doesn't look like MEU.

It's Kimber Type hammer made by NOVA (a set of hammer and sear - TM-GMP-U01-SB). I have a problem with it later (was solved).

Auto fire solved too - just install back TM sear.

Originally Posted by ILLusion

That was more the question I was asking... It looks like the type of hammer that actually requires the bump to be filed off the top of it so that the blowback unit doesn't hang on it:

It's because it's too long, it's causing the problems against the loading nozzle. Filing/grinding down the nub is all you have to do to get it functioning.

Not very likely for me. It's hard modification (required heavy tools), i don't want to change shape of parts (outer parts especially).

Originally Posted by ILLusion

It's how I fixed this gun which had Hurricane Kimber Covert Custom II conversion kit on Marui MEU base, with ILLusion Kinetics hammer set:

YouTube - Custom build, Slide hang on Hammer

Yes, exactly the same problem. But i see there SFA DELTA type hammer or Wilson (look like it anyway). Quality of video not too high to see that kinde of details. =)

Here is pics of broken pin (as i promised):



And a link on my Kimber Desert Warrior album:
http://vk.com/album1132552_128681986

[intinerious]

Originally Posted by T[]RK

Here is pics of broken pin (as i promised):

My pin broke too, a few weeks ago. I got myself a set of steel pins from Guarder. Seems like the blowback on the slide (mine was a plastic MEU slide with a dyna piston and SD nozzle fitted shooting green gas) was fast enough to make the sear disconnecter exert enough force to shear the plastic stock pin.

[T[]RK]

Originally Posted by intinerious

I got myself a set of steel pins from Guarder.

I got them from LCT. Work good too.

Originally Posted by intinerious

Seems like the blowback on the slide (mine was a plastic MEU slide with a dyna piston and SD nozzle fitted shooting green gas) was fast enough to make the sear disconnecter exert enough force to shear the plastic stock pin.

My pistol work properly only with TOP Gas. With Green Gas after 3rd or 5th shot no slide lock. With TOP work nice and kick well (with TM output valve).

[intinerious]

Originally Posted by T[]RK

I got them from LCT. Work good too.



My pistol work properly only with TOP Gas. With Green Gas after 3rd or 5th shot no slide lock. With TOP work nice and kick well (with TM output valve).

Aren't green gas and top gas the same thing? I'm using the ones with the white can and the jungle camo decal on it....thats probably top gas?

[T[]RK]

Originally Posted by intinerious

Aren't green gas and top gas the same thing? I'm using the ones with the white can and the jungle camo decal on it....thats probably top gas?

Nope, they are not the same. I have got Green GAS (Digital green camo can) for plastic weapons (like my all default TM G18C and KSC MP9), and TOP Gas (from Toy Jack black and white camo (like urban) can) for metal slide weapons (like kimber custom, TM Desert Eagle e.t.c.).

P.S. But one man in our forum used TOP with TM Five-seveN. It's work well.

P.P.S. I did small test of WE Knighthawk Gbb with Green Gas it did 20 shots (1 load) and with TOP Gas - 40 shots (1 load). Maybe just good system (they call it Megaflow).

[intinerious]

Originally Posted by T[]RK

Nope, they are not the same. I have got Green GAS (Digital green camo can) for plastic weapons (like my all default TM G18C and KSC MP9), and TOP Gas (from Toy Jack black and white camo (like urban) can) for metal slide weapons (like kimber custom, TM Desert Eagle e.t.c.).

P.S. But one man in our forum used TOP with TM Five-seveN. It's work well.

P.P.S. I did small test of WE Knighthawk Gbb with Green Gas it did 20 shots (1 load) and with TOP Gas - 40 shots (1 load). Maybe just good system (they call it Megaflow).

I use this: http://www.tokyo-model.com.hk/ecshop/goods.php?id=2311

I guess its TOP gas afterall O_o

[T[]RK]

Originally Posted by intinerious

I use this: http://www.tokyo-model.com.hk/ecshop/goods.php?id=2311

I guess its TOP gas afterall O_o

Not used ET-1000. =( Sorry.

I use this:

Green GAS
http://www.bratishki.ru/files/store_...g3574_2636.jpg

TOP GAS
http://www.bratishki.ru/files/store_...g3576_1612.jpg

[intinerious]

Originally Posted by T[]RK

Not used ET-1000. =( Sorry.

I use this:

Green GAS
http://www.bratishki.ru/files/store_...g3574_2636.jpg

TOP GAS
http://www.bratishki.ru/files/store_...g3576_1612.jpg

Hmm I've used your green gas before. Had to buy it during a wargame because I ran out of my own can of gas. The ones I normally use don't seem to be any different than the green gas you use as far as I can tell.

Anyway, ET-1000 is what we generally use in HK as far as I can tell :P

[chenmeister]

I installed an airsoft surgeon loading muzzle and the fit is tight with the nineball dyna piston, it doesn't slide smoothly and blowback feels sluggish. (the dyna piston works fine with the stock loading muzzle and the smaller o-ring with the piston seems to be too small) It shoots correctly but recoils inconsistently at times. Also, I can see white gas coming out of the barrel when shooting blanks, what causes this?
The hammer is also touching the loading muzzle when the slide slides back, they shouldn't be making contact correct? Should I try sanding down the bottom of the loading muzzle?

And wow this airsoft surgeon 170% recoil spring is ridiculously heavy.