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FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants

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Old January 24th, 2011, 14:15   #826
turok_t
 
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Does anyone have any experience with SD slides with ProG4 frames? How is the fitment like? It should be compatible right?

Whats the difference between these two, they look pretty much the same to me:

1. http://www.prog4.com/db/product-show.asp?refno=AR1372

2. http://www.prog4.com/db/product-show.asp?refno=AR1384

Last edited by turok_t; January 24th, 2011 at 14:21..
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Old January 24th, 2011, 14:26   #827
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Fitment is no good. I just tried it this morning. There are a huge number of fitment issues, from slide to frame, to SD chamber to frame. There are some problems with IK barrels to SD slides as well.

Regarding the two frame products, one is LDC. One is SDC. They got lazy and used the same photo (SDC) for both products.

Here is a photo for comparison:

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Old January 24th, 2011, 14:32   #828
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What are some specific fitment issues u experienced with the SD slide and ProG4 frame?

So Brian, if i have a SD slide, its prob better to get a SD frame instead of the ProG4 right?
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Old January 24th, 2011, 15:04   #829
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Originally Posted by turok_t View Post
What are some specific fitment issues u experienced with the SD slide and ProG4 frame?
Extremely tight fitment. I didn't have the time to look in to detail, but the slide moved very stiff along the frame. I also had an SD barrel set installed in the slide, which had difficulty tilting without external assistance. This could lead to excessive damage/wear of the lugs in the slide if this isn't corrected.

I didn't have the time to look in to the specific causes of these problems, but I think it's safe to say that a significant amount of work would be required to get fitment achieved.

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Originally Posted by turok_t View Post
So Brian, if i have a SD slide, its prob better to get a SD frame instead of the ProG4 right?
That is the probable conclusion.
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Old February 1st, 2011, 17:12   #830
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This doesnt really pertain to my hicapa, but im sure any advice would help. Ive got a Marui G18C, and my Fps fluctuates between 115-280fps with 0.30g bb's. With some shots, I can feel the recoil to be harder than other shots, I think this might be responsible for inconsistent gas output. Ive only upgraded the hammer spring and recoil spring to Guarder 150% with a TK twist barrel and SD slide/outer barrel.

What do u think is responsible for the varying FPS? do u think it has something to do with the nozzle, floating valve? I know its not hicapa, but if anyone has a similar experience with their hicapa, can you share your solutions? Thanks
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Old February 2nd, 2011, 16:54   #831
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Ahh problem fixed.. turns out theres a crack in my air nozzle... i fixed the problem for now and the fps is more consistent and much more higher now and i can feel greater recoil too.. crappy thing is, my xcortech 3200 chrono is being soo messed up.. 9/10 times it doesnt give any readings.. i need to hit it hard at the bottom first..
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Old February 2nd, 2011, 16:58   #832
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"i need to hit it hard at the bottom first.."

That's why...
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Old February 2nd, 2011, 17:00   #833
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"i need to hit it hard at the bottom first.."

That's why...
well i didnt have to do this before.. it started malfunctioning and i noticed that when i smack it at the bottom it reads..
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Old February 3rd, 2011, 15:09   #834
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well i didnt have to do this before.. it started malfunctioning and i noticed that when i smack it at the bottom it reads..
You can try cleaning the sensors instead of caveman fixing it. All airsoft shoot-through tube optical sensors can experience fouling from oil and dust.

Sometimes, off angle shots can shatter BB's (or if your gun is chopping BB's), which leave BB pieces in the way of the optical sensors. "Smacking" the unit is probably dislodging the shards.
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Old February 3rd, 2011, 15:40   #835
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Yeah, i tried to clean the interior and the sensors with a just a towel... BTW, here are the results for my glock now.. much more consistent:

0.30g:

232
233
236
238
231
227
226
226
233
223
231
230

0.20g:

277
278
275
275
270

Last edited by turok_t; February 3rd, 2011 at 15:42..
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Old February 3rd, 2011, 15:53   #836
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You can clean it better by disassembling the unit. You won't believe how much crud will come out.
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Old February 3rd, 2011, 16:48   #837
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You can clean it better by disassembling the unit. You won't believe how much crud will come out.
oh do u know how to open it up? I took off the 4 pads underneath and took out the 4 screws, but something still seems to be attaching the 2 halves together. I dont want to force it and break it since its a very expensive unit.. i did see some white stuff coming out of it thou.. looks like bb's bits
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Old February 3rd, 2011, 17:06   #838
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Originally Posted by turok_t View Post
I dont want to force it and break it since its a very expensive unit.. i did see some white stuff coming out of it thou..
that's what she said!!!! hehehehhehehehehhe
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Old February 3rd, 2011, 17:11   #839
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that's what she said!!!! hehehehhehehehehhe
LOL
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Old February 3rd, 2011, 17:17   #840
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Originally Posted by turok_t View Post
oh do u know how to open it up? I took off the 4 pads underneath and took out the 4 screws, but something still seems to be attaching the 2 halves together. I dont want to force it and break it since its a very expensive unit.. i did see some white stuff coming out of it thou.. looks like bb's bits
What you're experiencing, is called a "chrony creampie."

.... nevermind.


There's a fifth screw inside the battery compartment, hidden underneath the warranty invalidation sticker.
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