Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeMcNair
Polishing can be very easy, and fast to do.
creativity goes a long way when you don't have access to certain tools. Perfect example: using the rubber "drum sander" bit from a dremmel shown below, you can use the rubber to hold the inside of, say, an outer barrel, and polish it in 30 seconds with a power drill.
basically, you slide this in the barrel, and tighten the top screw, causing the rubber to get squeezed in between the top and bottom washers, making it spread outward and therefore gripping the inside of the outer barrel. then, put it in a drill chuck, grab some 1000 grit sand paper, and squeeze the drills trigger while holding the paper around the barrel.
i will show you a silly picture of this crude idea shortly.
also, please read this, i think it will be helpful :
also, to get a MATTE finish on a slide, the easiest thing is Tamiya flat clear, and it's easily found, and it's cheap. Plus, it works REALLY well, holds up well, and is HARD to mess up. just dust a few coats, and BAM, perfect matte finish.
***just make sure the cap is indeed more opaque, as there are different versions of this***
i am sure someone will chime in saying to use "DullCoat" or "DullKote" (i forget how to spell it) and i will tel you it is a product NOT for the "short attention spanned" among us.
i have used it, and i HATED it. that is my OPINION. it was terribly unforgiving, and it took an EON to dry properly. i do a lot of work on watches, and to matte a dial of a watch (or slide, or car part, etc) i stick to my Tamiya!!
EDIT:
as promised, simple, yet crude, way to polish a barrel (for instance)....
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Beyond polishing the slide rails/lugs, there are other modifications that I feel can greatly enhance the performance/cycling of the gun. When I start with any glock build, I remove all the innards of the lower frame keeping the front and rear chassis, and remove all the innards from the slide keeping only the bbu. I would manually slide them back and forth and observe, listen, and feel for any resistance. A lot of the times the lugs dont slide smoothly into the slide, and hence, corners on the lugs need to be smoothen out. Other times, it can be the protrusion from the BBU rubbing on the top of the rear chassis as the slide cycles, or the side of the hammer when it is cocked. You need to find out points of resistance and address them individually. Like what Eluder said, you can use graphite powder and manually rack your slide over and over to achieve that smoothness in cycling. Its a very fine agent that removes all the microscopic unevenness on the slide/lug.
In terms of slides, Guarder ones are hit and miss depending on the type and batch. I dont really like steel slides given the increase in gas consumption, heaviness and sluggish ROF. I find aluminum slides to be the best.
Here is a video I made for a user in Poland who was interested in maximizing the performance of his/her Marui g17/18c. I discussed all my tips and tricks in how to get the most performance out of your glock with what modifications and aftermarket parts used.
Video is titled "Custom modifications Marui g17" and can be found here:
Custom Modifications Marui G17 - YouTube
Custom Tokyo Marui G17/G18C - YouTube
Quote:
Originally Posted by Animalmother
I ordered these parts for now.
Problem is this.
I ordered the Angel Ultimate DYNA Piston Head on accident. I am not even sure if it fits or what this, should I cancel it? I have until tomorrow to decide.
I have no idea how i miss that in my cart...
1 x Guarder Enhanced Recoil Spring Guide Set for Airsoft WE Marui G17 G18 S11-110 SO-425 (Parts-GE-GLK-17)
1 x Guarder Magazine Catch / Release for Marui / KJ G Series S11-029 (Parts-GE-GLK-13)
1 x Angel Ultimate DYNA Piston Head for WE TM Hi-CAPA M9 P226 1911 Glock Airsoft GBB Pistol U7-126 (AC-HC51-06)
I cant find a Firefly rocket valve or a NineBall Hop-Up Bucking in stock.
Whats the cheapest metal slide I can get?
Upgrading the plastic body necessary?
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I echo eluder's reply above. I found the best results with these parts:
1.
Inner barrel- PDI 6.01 inner barrel for max fps
2.
Hop up rubber- A+ reaps bucking (tight fitting with inner barrel and concaves with bb)
3.
Nozzle- airsoft surgeon nozzle with piston head
4.
BLow back housing- guns modify light weight bbu (because of its minimal weight, recoil is more violent and cycling is much faster)
5.
Recoil rod- shooters design (less friction/resistance compared to guarder's steel rod..I can actually hear and feel less resistance using the SD rod over the guarder)
6.
Hammer- guns modify zero hammer version 3 (the dynamic tilting of the bearing makes cycling much smoother compared to the traditional ball bearing type)
7.
Floating valve- firefly floating valve, heard wonderful results with these
8.
High output valves- yes you can get high output valves, but don't forget, high output valves meaning more gas released per shot, meaning that u MAY be unable to fire all the bbs in a mag depending on how efficient your other components are operating.
9.
Hammer spring- shooters design (tension in the arms barely weaken over time as opposed to the ones from guarder)
10.
Gas route- nine ball gas route (forms a tight seal with the air nozzle, or you can build up the gas opening of the air nozzle with gasket maker or crazy glue. Fps will be higher and recoil is also more consistent as you can see in my videos)
11.
Slides- Guarder, shooters design, detonator, AIRSOFT SURGEON (thumbs up!). Dont get the cheap shit like 5KU or AABB, you're just creating more problems
With all the upgrades above with the exception of the firefly rocket valve and high output valves, I can achieve an fps between 315 to 325. My goal is not to achieve the highest fps or cqb limits of 350fps. Instead I strive to achieve best consistency with fps, consistency with blowback, accuracy with the best fps without compromising any if the above. You can have a high fps with accuracy of a super soaker or with a gun that breaks after 10 shots (watch my video when I consistently cycled my g18c over 100x continuously) which a means nothing.
Getting upgraded parts is one thing, installing and modifying them to perform optimally is another.