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Old October 27th, 2012, 02:53   #110
e-luder
 
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Centre Mass
STRESS Test: Glock Frames


After running many tests, I've finally managed to break a few of my
HK3/Guarder frames. lol. I was bored.

For those who are interested, here are my test results.

For my purpose, the ease of attaining a full auto and semi
auto in one gun, I had to use my Marui Glock 18c and a
HK3 G18c running on Coleman Propane on .20g BB Basteeeerrds.

Of course there are relative factors that can affect my test results (ie. Temperature of the magazine breaks between mag changes, etc etc etc.) SO I can only speak for my experience with my guns. Your gun may be a different animal altogether.

First test:
Platform: HK3 G18c
Set up: STOCK
Magazines cap: 24+ 1
Firing mode: Semi
Mags before breakage: 25 at 25rds each
Comments:
The HK3 Frame is able to withstand the pressure from a propane magazine longer than the stock Marui frame. Good stuff!!!!

Second test:
Platform: HK3 G18c
Set up: STOCK
Magazines cap: 24 + 1
Firing mode: Full auto
Mags before signs of breakage: 22 at 25rds each

Comments:
With a significantly higher ROF, the repeated force of the slide return seems to have caused two cracks that continued on to become much more in the latter stages of the testing.

Third test:
Platform: Marui G18c
Set up: Guarder frame installed
Magazines cap: 24 + 1
Firing mode: Semi
Mags before signs of breakage: 18 at 25rds each

Comments:
The significant lightly weighted slide proves to create more kinetic energy than a metal slide with a strengthened recoil spring.

Fourth test:
Platform:Marui G18c
Set up: Guarder Frame installed
Magazines cap: 24 + 1
Firing mode: Full auto (no Burst)
Mags before signs of breakage: 9 at 25rds each

Comments:
Not surprised that the stock slide completely severed the screw casing from the frame at the base. The good thing is, the screw casing in this case is salvageable because it didn’t shatter like a stock Marui frame would.

Fifth test:
Platform: Marui G18c
Set up: Guarder Frame + metal slide
Magazines cap: 24 + 1
Firing mode: Semi
Mags before signs of breakage: 45 at 25rds each
Comments:
This was a shock for me as I expected the stock slide to preserve the casing much more than a metal slide does.

Sixth test:
Platform: Marui G18c
Set up: Guarder frame + metal slide
Magazines cap: 24 + 1
Firing mode: full auto (no burst)
Mags before signs of breakage: 39 at 25rds each

Comments:
If you had any doubts that a full auto setting was doing harm, here is the proof. The metal slide on a guarder frame firing on full auto nearly shortened the life span of the screw casing by nearly a half.

Seventh test:
Platform: Marui G18c
Set up: Guarder Frame + stock slide with 150% recoil spring and hammer spring
Magazines cap: 24 + 1
Firing mode: full auto (no bursts)
Mags before signs of breakage: 30ish at 25rds each

Comments:
Adding more stress to the full auto, the idea of a strong recoil spring is generally what is accepted. But I found that it actually sped up the deterioration process.

Eight test:
Platform: Marui G18c
Set up: Guarder Frame + guarder Steel slide/barrel with 200% recoil spring and 150%
Shooter's Design hammer spring
Magazines cap: 24 + 1
Firing mode: full auto (no bursts)
Mags before signs of breakage: 11 at 25rds each

Comments:
Again this was unexpected. I expected the weight of the steel slide to match the power of recoil spring. It actually did the opposite.

Ninth test:
Platform: Marui G18c
Set up: Guarder Frame + Guarder aluminum slide with 150% recoil spring and hammer spring
Magazines cap: 24 + 1
Firing mode: Semi
Mags before signs of breakage: 40 at 25rds each

Tenth test:
Platform: Marui G18c
Set up: Guarder Frame + Metal slide with 150% recoil spring and hammer spring
Magazines cap: 24 + 1
Firing mode: full auto (no bursts)
Mags before signs of breakage: 35ish at 25rds each


Eleventh:
Platform: Marui G18c
Set up: Guarder Frame + stock slide with 200% recoil spring and 150%
hammer spring
Magazines cap: 24 + 1
Firing mode: full auto (no bursts)
Mags before signs of breakage: 7 at 25rds each. My slide blew offf!!!!

Comments:
MY SLIDE BLEW OFFF!!!!!

Summation/Conclusions:

So…
My tests revealed that the HK3 frame will outlast the Stock frame. Most HK3 Glocks already come pre-kitted with a stronger recoil spring than Marui. So if you take that into account and relate it to marui’s frame to spring ratio….
We can also see that using a Guarder frame with a stock upper assembly does absolutely nothing in terms of protecting the front screw casing. This is because, green gas/propane has a higher PSI value than duster gas which will create more force than the latter. Think of a rocket engine propelling a Voltswagen Beetle.

Suggestions made from the exercise:

There isn’t really much you can do in terms of preserving the front screw casing from what I gather. I’ve been working on Glocks primarily my whole airsoft career and I can’t really see a definitive way of fixing a broken screw casing. And rest assured, IT WILL BREAK…It’s only a matter of time.

There is really only way I found to be effective in terms of preventative measures:

On a Guarder, the screw casing will snap at the BASE of the screw post. Not around it. This is means that the front brass casing works but it only protects that which it is attached to. The brass casing itself doesn’t have any “roots” to the frame. This is why it snaps from the bottom. There is no strength there.
What you can do to avoid snapping from the bottom is to take your front chassis off. There will be a big recess right above the front side of the trigger guard next to the screw casing. FILL THAT SHIT WITH JB WELD (or something similar) and the surrounding base are of the screw. What you’re doing here is CEMENTING the casing in. Let it dry. Sand to make it smooth. And then reinstall the chassis.

Don’t worry, you’re not JB Welding anything. You can take the pistol down as much as you want without having to pry the front chassis from the frame.
The HK3/Stock Marui Frame will crack before it completely explodes. You need to be aware of the status of the screw casing if you don’t want it to break. Once it explodes, it’s very hard to put it back together. Sometimes it can’t be done.
So…

When you spot the crack, JB Weld it and make sure that the crack is filled. Apply some JB weld around the casing. Let it dry. Buy a Guarder safety tag. Fit everything accordingly. Sand off some of the Weld if you have to but would rather not if you don’t need to. Reinstall everything.
You can do both of these steps if you have patience even before you fire your first Glock. It will at least give you a longer lifespan than the stock.

Also…
MY SLIDE BLEW OFF!!!
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