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-   -   KJW P226 Finish (https://airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=141194)

luongoo May 30th, 2012 03:51

KJW P226 Finish
 
I recently picked up a full metal KJW P226 and the first thing that came to my head when I saw it was:

Holy crap, this thing is shiny!

I dont know what KJW was thinking when they designed the gun as the real steel would be a more matte/flat black especially since this is the trademarked version (the grips arent that nice either).

I normally put the gun down on a table with paper on it and I picked it up today and realized that every time I took the gun off the table, it marks up the paper with black (the edges as I pick it up). I have put about 50 rounds through it so far and the internal paint is pretty much all coming off now (if I run a Q tip through any part, its usually black paint coming off).

I honestly expected this gun to have a more durable finish but maybe thats just me nitpicking.

Another thing is they spelled Exeter NH wrong on the trademarks; quite amusing, really.

kullwarrior May 30th, 2012 09:06

You complaining a $100 the finish is crappy? Prime or PGC kit will solve that issue...It's $300+ oversea there

Styrak May 30th, 2012 10:25

I'm not sure what this thread was for. Complaining? A review? If it's a review, there's a section for that.

Crunchmeister May 30th, 2012 11:20

You need to put things into perspective. Like it or not, KJW is a value brand. In terms of reliability and performance, they're probably the best of all the value brands out there. But don't expect the same quality of materials and finish as you would on a high end brand. It's just not going to happen. There's a reason why KJW maintain a low price point. And it doesn't come from using top of the line parts or finishes.

If you want a high end, super-realistic looking pistol with impeccable finish, regardless of the model, then you're going to pay for that perk. If you want a particular model that functions well and won't break your wallet, that's where KJW comes in.

I had a KJW M9 that was my baby for several years. It had the shittiest shiny black finish on it that would wear off at nothing. But man, that thing was tough as nails and fired really well. To me, that was more important than the look. When I had the money to move up to a fully trademarked model with a realistic finish, I went for a UNC custom model. But I also paid through the teeth for it.

jordan7831 May 30th, 2012 11:46

You should have got the KSC/KWA P226 that has a pretty damn good finish but no after market support except for KWA factory parts.

It the finish bothers you that much why dont you strip the paint and respray with kylon ultra flat.

luongoo May 30th, 2012 13:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by jordan7831 (Post 1660089)
You should have got the KSC/KWA P226 that has a pretty damn good finish but no after market support except for KWA factory parts.

It the finish bothers you that much why dont you strip the paint and respray with kylon ultra flat.

Yeah but the KWA has problems with the slide failing :P

jordan7831 May 30th, 2012 13:50

Would you mind elobrating on that please?

luongoo May 30th, 2012 14:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by jordan7831 (Post 1660138)
Would you mind elobrating on that please?

http://kwausa.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=6499
and a few youtube reviews of both show that the KWA has some issues to iron out. I didnt think it was worth it.

jordan7831 May 30th, 2012 15:33

Well not that it matters anymore since you already have a P226 but the reason they had that problem in the thread you linked is due to the valve striker not being reset by the blow back unit. When the slide goes back there is a metal ramp on the underside of the slide that resets the valve striker back. What was happening in the video is a failure to reset. Not that it matters. Maybe someone will find this info useful at some point in the future.

But anyways if it bothers you that much you could always paint it again. Or you could strip the pain with some paint stripper for 5 minutes. This might be enough to take off the bulk of the paint. But due to the composition of the slide there may be paint left in the pores of the metal which could leave a very nice dull grey look. I had a KJW P229 and when I polished the barrel I soaked it for 10 minutes in paint stripper. It got all the nasty shiny paint off but left a dull grey look.

e-luder May 30th, 2012 15:38

sand and polish.
mirror finishes looks very sexy in the sunlight!

Crunchmeister May 30th, 2012 15:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by e-luder (Post 1660184)
sand and polish.
mirror finishes looks very sexy in the sunlight!

Pot metal doesn't look good polished. Nor does it stay shiny for long in contact with air.

luongoo May 30th, 2012 15:52

Does Duracoat go on the Aluminum pot metal?

Crunchmeister May 30th, 2012 15:54

Aluminum pot metal?

Pot metal is a mix of whatever scrap metals they have melted together. What's in your gun is anyone's guess. Even KJW couldn't tell you exactly what metals it's made of.

Styrak May 30th, 2012 16:10

Clear coat! Unless you like the dull brushed look.

jordan7831 May 30th, 2012 16:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crunchmeister (Post 1660186)
Pot metal doesn't look good polished. Nor does it stay shiny for long in contact with air.

Sorry I beg to differ. I have polished several guns in the past that were made from pot metal. With a bit of elbow grease I was able to get a mirror finish on pot metal parts.

The finish on those guns have neither faded or dulled to my knowledge. Just as long as you give a polished gun a quick wipe down with a paper towel after handling them to wipe off fingerprints they wont oxidize for a long time.


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